Lovingly restoring the worst bike I've ever ridden.

I really love the technical terms associated with this rebuild - priceless

Cut the headstock off, get it re-sleeved and weld it back on. Even that must be better than what it was even though not what it ever should be which is besides the point of this rebuild already established

soul? respectful? really? i could concede that there might be some change in the overall identity of the bike, in that it end up with a front end that was actually functional (ooh look, forks AND brakes AND wheel bearings, it's like magic!), and therefore would make the rest of the bike suck that much more. but to be concerned about altering the intrinsic character of this bike, somehow tainting it, that's a pretty hard road to follow.

although, there is the very real possibility that slapping a whole new front end on could cause the rest of the bike to spontaneously disintegrate. in a glorious cloud of baking soda maybe...

I like the new headstock approach too, but isn't this the sort of thing that is going to require some very good welding technique and attention to detail? This doesn't sound like something you can stick-weld in your backyard using BBQ-repair skills. Steering heads seem like an area where you don't fool around and do Red Green repairs as any failure generally results in an immediate face-plant at speed.

I'm not sure I understand what is going on with the three bikes, but my advice is to keep you eye on the ball and get one done using the best parts from all three. Don't lose momentum.... you can figure out what you can do with the leftover two later after you've learned from the one completed one and seen if the payoff is worth the trouble.

- Mark

Here's a little inspiration tune to work by.

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I hate to break this to you now, but it's dead easy to import whole bikes into the U.S., as long as they are 25 years old or older . . . or at least you have paperwork that SAYS they are that old.

Here's a thread I put together to help others through the process. Next time somebody wants to bring a Minsk to the U.S., you might try this method: Linky.

He did import three whole bikes. They're just in a thousand pieces wrapped in cardboard.

Next time?!

oser

But this isn't just some piece of shit that he picked up out of someone's garbage, this is an old friend, a trusted companion from a memorable adventure. The bike was "actually functional" with a freakin' beer can shim in the egg-shaped headstock, how much worse could he muck it up? I doubt he's planning on touring here with this thing, or riding it on the highway, or charging the Dragon. But what a cool bike to cruise down to the local donut shop on a Saturday morning!

But like I said, I'm a little sentimental.

Actually, we all doubt he's gonna go touring on this....but if anyone else here has spent countless hours, working on cleaning, and fixing some old broken poorly designed piece of shit in the name of loyalty, style, and sentimentality....the horizon in that person's eyes will look more like a lap around the world, not to the mall and back. I'm betting this suckers got another road trip in her...

Well said, you've nailed exactly where I'm coming from.

Now, the big problem with any kind of head stock replacement is the welding and machining. I do not have the ability to cut off the existing one properly, much less weld on a new/used/re-sleeved one properly. I could probably weld it on so that it wouldn't fall off, but I couldn't get the angles correct. Also, the tube would warp while welding it on, which would necessitate machining the top and bottom of the tube so that the bearing races have a proper I.D. to press into. Using a much long/taller head tube might avoid having to do this by getting the bearing race surface far enough away from the heat that it would not need to be machined, but then I would have to change to a longer stem. Let's skip that idea altogether, sighting "insufficient skill set".

Has anybody else tried that Japanese beer, Sapporo? Really tasty beer. But more importantly, the can is made out of some really thick aluminum. Hmmm...

Keep the ideas coming!

So, is it time to put the welders and machine tools away and discuss the best way to apply JB and keep the bearings as clean, true and straight as possible while the JB sets?

i don't trust jbweld. i think you might be on the right track with sapporo. it will seem like a really good idea after you have prepared a few cans by removing the liquid.

JB Weld being an epoxy, will help fill the voids but it isn't a good choice to act as a major source of strength. That is what metal is good for.

But then this being an adventure in finding meaning in the relativistic functions of the various parts of a motorcycle, perhaps it will serve as another aspect of discovery.

JJ

The idea is to JB the races into the tube, right? The JB will take up the gaps between the egg-shaped tube and the races, then the whole thing will be held in compression by the stem. The JB doesn't really have to contribute any strength whatsoever. As long as it's strong enough to not be crushed by the stem, and sticky enough to keep the races from spinning, it should be all good. What am I missing?

I picked up some stuff called Q-Bond the other day that might be worth looking into. It has a metallic kind of filler that looks to be pretty strong - ugly, but strong.

I'd probably opt for finding a machine shop with a guy as crazy as you are and have him build it up and machine it out to what it needs to be. Too bad Kenny Howard isn't still around - he'd have a blast with this.

jdg

+1

The trick to doing this is fabricating some sort of jig that will allow you to install the races and properly align them before the JB Weld sets up. I'd think you could fabricate something with 2x4's, nuts and bolts, some all-thread rod, and miscellaneous spacers and washers to do the job. Once you've got your jig built, do a few "dry runs" to make sure you can apply the JB Weld, install the bearing races, and tighten up the alignment jig before the JB Weld sets up. You should be able to keep the epoxy out of the bearings with masking tape.

Worst case- knock the races back out, chip/grind the JB Weld out and start over.

Maybe even put a smear of grease on the ID of the races and the tube above and below where the races sit. That way any squeeze-out should just flake right off.

I am not an expert in metal repair, but I would try removing the previous repair. Looks like somebody created a metal patch and welded it on the front of the head to support the cracked bearing seat. Why not grind off the repair, see if you can get the seat back in shape then weld on another patch.

You, sir, are doing a darn fine job.

I am skilled in the emptying of beer bottles (I can do cans in a pinch) should you require assistance.