What to use to clean black chain lube off of aluminum rims easily?

Obviously I don't want to use an abrasive on aluminum rims to clean them, but I was somewhat shocked that pure strength, then diluted strength to soak, Simple Green didn't really clean much chain lube off of the rear wheel of my DR650.

I'm no neat freak with the bikes since I ride them at least six days a week, but the one time I've thought "Yeah, maybe I should wash the DR..." it didn't really get clean looking with the goop on the rear wheel, sprocket, etc.

Should i go buy a little kerosene? Does WD-40 still cut through modern lubes? (I think the spray-can lube I have at home is PJ1 Black Label).

I use Simple Green straight without diluting it. Its safe on the rims and is an excellent grease cutter....

Simple Green

WD40 on a rag

Also, the chain cleaner that you hose off with water seems to works really well.

I've found that Honda aerosol cleaner / wax works most of the time for grease and bugs. For stubborn stuff I spray WD 40 on a rag.

Just use a little diesel / kerosene. It'll cut through caked on asphalt and tar, so it will work great on chain lube as well.

It's cheap and easily obtainable. It won't damage the finish.

+1

Thanks guys.

I'm either surprised the Simple Green is working for some, as I stated it was pretty useless, or that the chain lubes they use are cut by it when PJ1 Black isn't.

p.s. STOP using chain lube. There is NO valid reason to spray "Chain lube on a modern O-Ring/ X-Ring chain. NONE.

Spray a bit of Teflon lube every 400 miles or so to help with the chain to sprocket contact...

All the "won't fly off" chain lubes trap dirt and destroy the the O-rings, cutting chain life in half (or worse)

I'd almost agree with that, but I've seen what the Florida sun does to damage the o-rings on o-ring chains from others' bikes.

From what i understand, coating o-rings with a proper lube keeps them expanded, flexible, and protected from the sun.

I was wondering about that myself, i mean if there is an o ring, the spray wont even reach the joint, which it's supposed to lube:huh

Referring to Dakez post

I think of it as trying to keep the stock lube in the chain. If one's o-rings are dry, the lube from the inside will migrate in tiny amounts. Lubed o-rings won't draw lube from the insides.

This may be proven wrong, but in nearly every other application fluids do tend to move to cleaner or dryer areas.

polishing compound.

I like to use ATF

S-100 works really well too.

The rollers and side plates are still coming in contact with the sprocket and need some kind of protection from wear which chainlube provides better than teflon or wd40.

hydrochloric acid based wheel cleaner.... its what the detail shop I use to work at used. Spray the whole rim, let it sit for about 30 seconds and spray it off.... It will get 20 year old stains off, really is amazing. Don't get it on ANY plastic and DON'T breath it in, nasty stuff.

WOW I guess my current chain that is sitting at 25K miles on it (and the two prior that each got 20K+) that I use Chain Wax on after every ride would have lasted 50K??? Actually the chain is still fine, just need new sprockets..

I like Krud Kutter or simple green used full strength, an automotive wheel brush works the charm. (think big bottle brush)
I like the acidic wheel cleaners too. Maguires brakedust cleaner is the bomb. pre wet the rim, scrub and rinse promptly. It will etch alum if left to dry.

IF the wheel has good quality paint or a good quality coating, a rag dampened with acetone works wonders and will not harm a well applied finish.