You don't loosen or turn the shaft out to lower the pedal. You turn it in so it goes deeper into the master cylinder. And I think you just won't be able to go any farther when you reach the limit.
Hmm, my Vapor has done the things you mention, usually just for a bit and then its fine - but what really bugs me about it is that if it gets cold out (below about 40 degrees F) it stops giving speed or mileage readings!
Geez: I went to an exchange chart to see what a US dollar is worth compared to an Australian dollar fully expecting a 2 to 1 ratio, but they are basically the same value. That's whack! I think I should start importing boatloads of used DR's to your locale. Does AUS have hideous import duties? I think that would drive the price up and keep it there for your used bikes as well.
Shaft stays the same in the master cylinder. Look at the bottom of the shaft below the lock nut and you will see the shaft turning in a clevis that raises and lower the brake peddle. TravelGuy.
Call them up. I have had problems with my Vapor as well. What I can say is that I've never seen a company work as hard from a customer service standpoint.
The battery? Motorcycle Superstore. I had a 10% coupon, so total cost with free shipping was $144. Rob
Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting diffrent results. Maybe start looking in another direction? Are the valves adjusted properly? Plugs and plug wires in good order? Fuel filter at the inlet is clean? I feel for you..problems like this are no fun. Everyone is carb crazy around here so that is the first place they start when something isn't right...but problems could start somewhere else. Had an old mechanic tell me one time- "90% of carb problems are ignition related" While he was talking about cars it has rang true in the 20 years I have worked on engines- I would give it more of a 70%, but you get the idea.
You guys yapping about batteries put the bad voodoo on me. Went to start the bike this morning...would barely crank over...and not enough to start. Damn it! I only got 3 years out of that battery! What a piece of shit. All of my other bikes lasted atleast 5 years. I really wanted to ride this morning but didn't have time to throw the charger on it- wish it had a kick start!
Are the vibes/noises in the upper gears, the upper RPMs, the upper roadspeeds, or the more-open throttle positions? What about the surging? I'd also check your chain and sprockets for being the cause of some of the surging, and if you haven't already, isolate the crankcase breather filter from the airbox opening. If the crankcase breather is close to the airbox opening, it can contribute significantly to a surging issue.
It's colder here than where you are, but 3 years is all I have gotten from my last 2 batteries for my DR650. (6 months so far on the latest one) I would pay more for a battery that would last longer, but how can I know in advance. I go to a local battery specialty place and buy their $70 battery.
Heads up - Just in case any of you were waiting on the rear 17" Michelin T63 to be back in stock... Back in stock at Motorcycle Superstore after being out of stock for several months. They had 12 in stock when I ordered mine. They still show in stock this afternoon, but may not last long, or they may be plentiful this winter, who knows? I bought front and rear for $68 each, $136 for a set of tires is not too shabby!
Too weird: After reading this my phione rings. It's my best friends dad. His battery is sooo dead, he can't get the transmission to allow him to shift so he can push it outta the garage to jump start it.(Honda Accord):eek1 I went over and took it out and bought a new battery at Costco and put it in for him. It was the original one from 2004. Glad we weren't discussing furnaces.
I'm going to have to have to extend to modern Japanese ignition system components in general. There is rarely an issue, and when there is, the engine generally quits running completely, i.e. if the engine still runs, the issue is not likely to be ignition related. Regards, Derek
A wise old guy once told me that "carburator" was French for "Don't f*** with it". But that was back when most people left the carbs alone, and ignitions had points, vacuum advance and retard, cheap plug wire insulation, weak coils etc. Now ignitions are (and should be) left alone, but the drivability of '90's era carb-holdovers leads us to tinker with jets and needles and often make things worse. I have two carbed bikes (one is the DR), neither with stock jetting, and frankly neither runs as well in all conditions of rpm, temperature, throttle and altitude as my bone-stock injected VStrom.
Sheesh, I thought I rode the wheels off of mine this summer to get 12,800 miles. (41,242 total) I had to shorten the shaft 1/4" to 5/16" by grinding off the bottom threads. Start here on #23 and read down. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634746&page=2 Loosen the nut on top of the clevis, use the nut on the shaft (right at the boot), to turn the shaft, the nut under the clevis is captive, the shaft will travel down (shorter), allowing the rear of the pedal to rise (clear as a bell to me ). And be careful not to tear the rubber boot while turning the bolt.
More than 12 hours since a reply. Have we run out of things to talk about? I guess I'll have to go riding.