If it were me, I'd get some 1/2" brass stock, tap it to the correct thread, and turn a top-hat shape into it, and epoxy it in from the under-side so the top-hat prevents pull-through. But I like projects like that. HOWEVER... I just checked McMaster Carr, they carry zinc plated T-Nuts (see pic below) in metric sizes down to M4. Now I'd just buy a box of those ($13 + shipping for a box of 100) and grind the sharp tangs off and epoxy them in place. All we need is one FF to get a box and share with everyone. Alternately, you could just go down to your local hardware store and get fractional inch T-Nuts and replace the bolts as well. FYI, it's pretty important to get the base plastic very clean before epoxying. I use carb cleaner then acetone followed by a thorough drying with an air gun.
Thanks Al. The T nuts were something like I had in mind, I was just worried that if the epoxy did not hold on those, I'd end up fishing through the throttle body for them. I thought I was pretty thorough about cleaning/ prepping the base plastic. I hit it pretty good with a little brake cleaner, then dried manually with a paper towel, then allowed it to sit for a while before moving on to the application of the epoxy...
The Wolfman Enduro 12s work for anything less than 2 weeks. I had them backed with tools and clothes. The tent and everything else went in a dry bad that was secured to the E12's and it worked very well and we not intrusive in the least. They are NOT waterproofed so when it torrential down pored on thursday, my gloves and tools got soaked... Tools not so bad but wet gloves and 40° sucks.
Is it possible? Been doing this all season. I use the recommended Motorex 10w60 and fill it to between the lo/hi lines while on a lift stand. I went for a 40 mile ride today after changing the oil, parked it and it's above the window. :huh Changed the injector back to stock as well after a back flush prior to the ride. When I pull the fill cap out and give it a whiff, I can smell gas fumes but that's normal to an extent, right? I had an analysis done 1000 miles ago and it stated that there was gas in the oil. At that time I installed a new injector and wrote it off as problem fixed. The problem is still here but how is it possible? There is only one way into the engine and that's past the piston right? I have installed the Vortex ECU since the analysis and my mileage has dropped to 42mpg but logic would dictate that more power equals more fuel consumption I figure. The bike runs like a champ. Seriously strong, exhaust soot in the can looks the right chocolate color as does the spark plug, no running issues, temperature is right. And it's not coolant. I've turned wrenches for a long time and definitely know what that looks like. Does Motorex expand? But someone did mention that it foams which isn't good. Maybe I'll go Motul next but that's another issue...
According to the manual, you are supposed to warm the bike up real good, let it sit for 5 minutes, then check the level. I have always put in the manual reccomended quantity (1.7 or 1.8L??), warmed it up good, then checked. It's always fine.
That's to fill the oil filters. I didn't mess with the filters today. But to be on the safe side I'll drain off the excess, again, and recheck after next ride.
Are any of you using a filter sock in the neck of the gas tank? If so, what brand and where did you buy it?
Thanks for the offer, but I think I'd probably end up with the same problem eventually. I was always pretty gentle on the torque with the originals having read of others here having the same issue.... I may take you up on it if I can't sort it out with T nuts or some such..
You can mount 2 drybags on top of the E12s. One is the larger drybag with all the camping crap. The other is a smaller dry bag that would be strapped down using the D-rings that are attached to the tension-o-matic and the rear-most strap. This smaller drybag would be good for smaller,lighter stuff like mtn house food, raingear, etc....that should free up some space and you can put your gloves in there. Did any of you folks mount the forward straps onto your passenger footpegs? Or did you mount them to the stock heel plate? I really don't want to install the footpegs. On my GS the passenger footpegs would "poke" me when I dropped the bike. (The solution is to never drop the bike, but you know....) On the other hand, the left straps comes damn close to the chain.:eek1:eek1
I remember seeing a post, complete with photos, of a 690 being desmogged. Does anyone know how I can find it? I've looked everywhere.
I found this one stuck way back in my "favorites". http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358397&postcount=8 I know I've got the canister removal in there somewhere as well. I'll edit it in when I find it. Here it is: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358388&postcount=7
Took me an hour to remember where I hid those links on myself. I should start a sticky with links. I've got them all, just need to organize.
I ended up ditching the brass nut inserts and screws, and now just using self taper screws through the plastic airbox. Worked fine so far, but I am careful not to overtighten and pull them through.
I`d pull the injector out . With the fuel line & wires connected crank the engine a few times , then see if you get any drips from the injector . I back flushed mine a few times then the injector started dripping . With 50 psi in the fuel while the engine is off you could end up with a lot of drips going in your engine . I back flushed my injector a few times & it started dripping . I won`t be back flushing again .