The Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z Big Thread

It is the local dealer, whom I prefer to work with, but with the reliability of the S10, I'd be willing to travel... going to look into it some more. Thanks!

Brought an ES back from West Virginia yesterday. Sorry for the phone pic, it was sent to me by my salesman.



Some preliminary thoughts on the 2014 ES from a garage perspective as the weather’s just not cooperating for anything more quite yet.

Picked the bike up today and as with my 2012 had the dealer install the following OEM options:

Panniers
Crash bars
Skid plate (I don't want to hear it... Not going trials riding in Africa)

To start, the ergos are a bit different, as the seat, while thinner, seems to have similar comfort to the original. For me the thinner profile works well as I was just this side of being totally flat-footed, but am so now. Foam density seems similar enough. The balance of seat changes are only cosmetic with it's new two-tone appearance. The bike “fits” as before.

The handlebars are now set up and back from the original stance which suits me as I had used adjustable ROX risers before. Not that the '12 was a poor fit... Just that it needed to be tweaked minimally to eliminate a small cramp between the shoulder blades. With no time on the bike I can't say the new setup is a panacea for fitment, but it feels “in range” for me. As learned many times, sometimes just an 1/8” (give or take) can make a really profound improvement in comfort. This new configuration hopefully saved me from having to buy longer brake and clutch lines again.

Kickstand. They dumped a few ounces I guess. I preferred steel and may get it finished in black. It actuates real nice and the kick tab makes it easy and certainly more ergonomic than the chicken stick. Looks a bit like a sore thumb to me. To others it may add to the line.

Instrumentation. Yes and no. Yes, I prefer an analog tach, and no, I don't have that luxury any longer. Here I have to put my faith in Yamaha's design engineers and yield to their wisdom. Functionality can only be assessed fairly with riding time. Navigation is simple and straightforward with a “flow” as expected. One menu button to cycle between Suspension, Grips, and Data, and a rocker switch for up/down. Control is reasonably placed and operated. Forefinger for the menu and thumb for up/down. From a cosmetic standpoint it's got an efficient, clean look with excellent legibility. It's position is slightly higher which I prefer. I'm fond of the mounting bar above it as it allows for a safe and clean center mount for GPS, for which I had previously paid 80-something for an SW Motech center mount.

Gotta get this one out of that way... That damnable U-Joint guard. I had a 0-mph fall on my '12 when my pant leg caught on it. I was aware of it... Always avoided it... And it caught up with me. I'd have thought they would have done something similar to the Altrider guard that eliminates the pant catch. It's on order. I love the bike, but I'm sure there'll be times when I want to get off it without an argument.

Electronic suspension. Other than saying it has it I can't say anything else about it yet, although I now have a delightful small fixture mounted behind my pillion's right footpeg.

LED turn signals are a welcome improvement as well as a cosmetic boost. More light, and the smaller package doesn't compete with the bike's excellent design. I now see better why others had changed over to them.

Mirrors. Definitely more stylish. Viewed head-on I felt the originals looked a tad staid. Certainly a bit more on the assertive side now, ala Bat-bikish.

Windscreen. Obviously can't speak to functionality yet, but it cuts a nice profile, is more stylish, and above all is adjustable sans tools. The '12's screen in the top position gave me a small amount of airflow on the top of my helmet which was appreciated in the warmer months as it aided in helmet ventilation significantly. This one looks like I can have that or not.

Glad I'm not laying out $450.00 for OEM heated grips. Haven't tried them, but hope they've addressed the power imbalance, as on the '12 the left grip radiated just a bit less heat than the right. Wasn't an issue at all, but it was discernible as many have noted.

I figure about 10K miles or so will give me enough history to fully comment on the engine as the '12's motor seemed to really improve around then and ever since. I'm certain that there's going to be some (to what degree I have no idea) improvement by just the mapping tweaks alone. The '12, at 22k miles is still improving upon itself in terms of feel, and smoothness. Of course those conclusions are drawn solely from my ears and the seat of my pants, but are nonetheless tangible. It's note seems very similar if not the finest hair angrier, but it's new and an accurate opinion can't be formed yet.

Time for farkles. I'm not going down this road too heavily, especially because the S10 is such a nicely equipped machine, but there's a few things I need on it:

1. Power distribution. Putting in a Fuzeblock.
2. Rigid Industries SR2 6” LED light bar – spectre, driving beam
3. Garmin Zumo 350LM
4. Famsa Tank Bag
5. USB charger
6. AltRider u-joint guard

I use Kriega dry bags in addition to the panniers and that'll all be the same.

The new under-the-headlight cosmetic panel must be relieved in it's center to accommodate the center mounting bracket of the OEM crashguards.

Many differing opinions out there as to which method, or any for that matter, is best for break-in. I didn't design the thing so I'm going by the book just as I had with the '12... And that worked like a charm.

In closing, I've got to say that I'm thrilled at the potential in the garage and am eager to put it in play.

Given some halfway decent weather I'm gone.

Thanks for the review/update. Be sure to keep us posted with pictures.

Looks like the plastic table and chairs at Romney WV?



Great dealer and after seeing the $14,750 price quoted to Tallbastid, it's worth noting that Romney generally has the lowest prices on the east coast.

Another thought for Tallbastid or others would be to get a quote from another dealer in writing and take it to your local dealer. Make it short, sweet, and simple that you really are trying to stay with him, but for that much in difference, the quote is the deal he is going to need to beat to get your money. Be honest and recognize that your local dealer may not be able to go that low, but could give you the YES warranty, accessories, etc. You can't bluff and will need to be willing to go to the farther dealer.

I got my 2012 from my local dealer in 2011 when the Tenere first hit the US shore. The same low price at the time came from both Romney and D&H in Alabama. (fwiw - I had no trade-in. added TTL) The normal pricing for the local is full retail, but knowing I was serious they agreed to $11,995.

Looks great

I never understood why all the east coast dealers get new models in before the west coast. You guys get these bikes and they're stuck in the garage till spring because the weather is always too bad. We on the other hand have 80F plus days right now and have to wait another month for the Tenere to get here. I couldn't even buy ktm 1190R now if I wanted to, yet there's dozens of guys on the east coast with them in their garages with zero miles

Just thinking out loud here. I'm a tall bastard (get the username?) at 6'8", looking for a big adv-touring bike for the girl and I to tour on. combined weight of us two is about 475 lbs. geared up. I value reliability above outright performance, and I'll be riding about 60% road, 40% gravel roads, with a thumper in the garage for single track. I'm really looking for a comfortable, no-drama machine to have fun on this summer. Super Tenere sound right for the job like I think it does?

No question about it. Might want to get stiffer suspension.

Sounds about perfect, with suspension and a reflash.

ac

Your taste in fine furnishings is correct Sir.

Agreed. It's undersprung for that load.

Yeah, I'm used to that.

He said "undersprung" not underhung. Yeah I'm used the second one too.

Thinking out loud myself ... would it be possible to upgrade a 2011 to a Standard 2014? .... What could go wrong if you leave the old ECU (reflashed) and change the dashboard and the electricals together with the handlebar switches? The windshield and support is a no brainer but messing with the electronics is something different.
If I go this way instead of selling the Black Pearl then I'll keep you informed and ask for help here. Don't think Yamaha will give me a hand.
Cheers,
Roberto

:d

Why?

Because the 2011 tweaked as I have it has no other way to improve so I would change or upgrade only the bits that cannot be done now (cruise control and the switches that change the info on the display) ... don't need the extra HP or the thinner seat ... have Wasp's windshield system and use a Givi windshield ... also have the SW Motech handlebar with 1 inch raisers, perfect for my RocStompa steering dampener and also have the OEM heated grips and Kaoko cruise control.
I would have to pay USD$4000 extra to get a standard 2014 if I sell my 2011 which has been undergraded to a Super Tenere as you can see in the photos









And this is my Hyper on a recent trip with a friend and his KTM 1190 R testing the heat shields for him




With USD$4000 I can upgrade my Hyper Tenere to the future ... lol
Cheers,
Roberto

Your bike is better than a stock 2014. The only difference is the different dashboard, electronic cruise control, and electronic suspension. Dashboard is a moot point, it's aesthetic unless is plugs into the electric widgets. You already have cruise control. Electronic adjustable suspension isn't better than a well sorted aftermarket suspension if it gives you another component to fail in the middle of nowhere and is still undersprung.

Put down the parts catalog and go riding.

Honestly I looked at the new 2014s and they had all the shiny gadgets that I was drooling over when the 1190 came out and all the features I wish my 2012 had. Then I seriously looked at the differences between me well farkled 2012 and then new 2014 and the only noteworthy difference was electronic cruise control and like that I was over it.

Save yourself a few thousands bucks and just make a new tool tube or get one of those stupid gremlin bells.

+1k!

ac

I encountered a weird downshifting issue on my s10 today. I went out for a long ride and about 120 miles in, the bike had trouble shifting from 2nd to 1st. No trouble going from 2nd to 3rd, 4th, etc. Only from 2nd to 1st. Riding in 2nd, I would pull the clutch lever all the way, press down on the shifter, and the lever would go down, but the transmission would not shift into 1st. I tried re-engaging the clutch, even giving it some gas, and then try downshifting again, but nothing.

Weird thing is that the problem was inconsistent. One stop light it wouldn't work. 2 minutes later at the next light everything shifts fine. 4 minutes later at the next light again no downshift.

For reference, I only have 1650 miles on my s10, of which I put on the last 700 miles. I didn't abuse the bike at all and mileage is really low for transmission failure.

From a quick search online I saw comments on oil and the shift pivot bolt. Modern oil is modern oil is modern oil, but who knows what the PO put in so I changed that out with a Bosch 3300 filter and Rotella T6. I would prefer an oem filter, but it's Sunday so I'm stuck with whatever is available from the local auto supply store. I haven't taken the s10 off-road yet so the shift pivot bolt was clean, but I wiped it off and relubed anyway.

Took the bike out for a 15 minute shakedown and the problem seems to be resolved and shifting is a bit smoother. If it comes up again, I'm taking it to the dealer and using the extended warranty.