KLR650 Only Thread......

Personally I wouldn't run anything with a greater load than some LED auxiliary lighting. I'm using these same two extra connectors to power a relay for an aux halogen light (the actual power running the light taken off the positive terminal of the starter relay), and LED aux lights. I like to see & be seen.

I've figured the KLR can handle at least 2 amps of extra current..

Time to switch over to LED lights all over if you want to save on power consumption, open up a bit of breathing room for some aux components.

Hey guys having a problem with my EBC 320mm oversized rotor chewing through brake bads like crazy. Think its time to upgrade the caliper set up. Any recommendations? Thank you.

I would look at the SV650 caliper upgrade on KLR650.net That is the direction I am going just need to get the brackets made.

I have a later number ,but Im going to remove the cover and take a look. Thanks for the advice

Before you cross into Mexico, contact Eagle Mike, his shop is located in San Diego CA, or also Wyman Wynn (KLR expert and pro mechanic from another list) he's in Santa Barbara, CA. Either source will help with your needs, just contact them. I'm sure you can ride to their shops (not speaking from personal experience) to get some hands on help and advice.

Good luck and post up a RR.

So i'm currently in california on my "miami to patagonia trip" and i've put roughly 7 thousand miles on my 99 with no issues what so ever (totall miles 14k). Recently i started noticing a intermittent slight loss of power around the 3-5k band in any gear. To me it feels like a fuel issue though it's hard to tell. the idle is set at 1,500 but seems a bit erratic (though i blame the constant changes in altitude) The carb was soaked/cleaned and a new full kit was thrown in before i began the trip. I'm also running two .40 needle shims and drilled the slide hole. i'm running a raptor 660 petcock and threw in a iridium NGK plug at home. i run strictly 87 octane and have ran a bottle of sea foam half per full tank 2 tanks in a row at every oil change. Been changing the oil every 2k on the trip with rotella 15/40. it's always come out clean. magnetic drain plug is also clean. (doohikey and torsion spring done). thought maybe the gas cap vent might be clogging up? didn't touch it before the trip. is there more ethanol in the gas in california could this be the cause? The bike is getting about 180-200 miles per tank before reserve and i'm carrying around 80lbs of gear, i'm 210lbs fully geared up. so the millage isn't bad. not sure where to look other than breaking the carb apart and the also the gas cap.

any clues would be greatly appreciated!!!!

My choke cable froze up 2 weeks ago, it would not return to the off position. Since it is not a true chock (it's a fuel enrichment circuit) it wasn't a problem driving home until I would hit a stop light. I decided to take it the way of the kick stand/ clutch safety switches. Out of the equation. I ordered the start plunger for a 2006 KLX300R (KLX300- A6F) Part # 16016- 1068. http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...otorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=2006&fveh=27705



It might take some getting used to, reaching for the carb but if you own a dirt bike or a KLK250S it won't be a problem, you've done it before. The tip looks a little different but it still works just like the original. Plunger was $23.00 compared to the cable at $16.17. I used angled needle nose pliers after removing the gas tank.
At the same time I did the carburetor vent hose "T- Mod". If your new to the KLR:
Bike stalls in the rain/deep water crossings
This is generally caused by submersion of the carburetor vent line. This is a clear/transparent pink hose running from the side of the carb down to the bottom of the bike. If this gets clogged, the carb will fail to operate properly and the engine will quit. The best solution is known as the "T-mod:" install a tee in this line near the carb. Route the original line the way it was, and route a second line up under the seat or behind the fairing. Arrowhead Motorsports now sells a kit for this. KLR FAQ .http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation

Not more ethanol, but the Commiefornia winter gas blends are really weird and sometimes can make vehicles run very poorly. They increase the oxygenization agents (IIRC) and it can ruin the MPG on higher performance engines. In general, all Commiefornia gasoline is crap thanks to the bureaucrats in Sack O' Tomatoes.

That tip does not have the protrusion on it like a stock KLR does.Are you sure that will completly shut off the enrichener circuit fuel flow ??? Or can you take the end off the KLR cable and put it on the plunger?

Not really. California has very good laws about the fuel tanks and whatnot gas stations have to use. Usually eastern states have a higher concentration of moisture than we do. We're lucky...

This link may help. I believe I've also read about a KLR guy modifying the vent diaphram to ensure proper flow through it though I think he found out that what he did allowed gas to spill from the cap during a fall. Either way a good cap cleaning shouldn't hurt. You can check if the cap is the problem by riding with the tank/cap open.
http://www.photos.klr650.net/thumbnails.php?album=775

Also check your tank vent under the seat. And while you're at it check that your petcock diaphram isn't leaking...I've read that a leaky diaphram, other than potentially failing completely which would cut-off fuel flow, it can leak such that the vacuum only opens the petcock partially which will restrict fuel flow and potentially cause starvation.

I had this same problem when my bike would get hot on a hot day and I was going up a steep grade...I'd also get hints of it in other conditions. After adjusting and rejetting the carb for the first time, the problem seems to have gone away although I haven't tried another steep grade during the summer since then. But this is a fairly common KLR problem with many potentially sources...with gas cap vent, tank vent, and leaky petcock being the most common I've read about.

I looked for the old cable plunger for the picture but I had thrown it away. My 2007 KLR had the protrusion. In the parts look up it shows the protrusion on the KLX300 and the KLX250S plunger style. The 2 I ordered had no protrusion. I have the stock carb from my KLX250, I pulled the plunger and no protrusion. I stuck it in the KLR and it worked. It starts the bike with a 3000 rpm chock. I push it in about 1/2 way and hold it for about a minute @ 1400 rpm. I push it in and it drops to 700 rpm. When it warms it runs a little under 1000 rpm at idle. Same setting as the old cable plunger. I didn't need to adjust it. So I would say it works.
Is this where I need to say? "Disclaimer" It works for me. Use at your own risk, only a suggestion.

OP has manually- (not vacuum-) actuated petcock:

Gunked-up jets may be his problem; spec hot idle is around 1200 rpm.

I put the stock starting enricher plunger onto a stem-shortened and re-knobbed Drag Specialties Harley cable, mounted to the switch cover shown:



Ergonomically located, cable does not interfere with any rider body part in any position.

I had a similar issue with my 2000 KLR. It drove me crazy for 1200 miles. Ended up being the baffles in the OEM muffler broke loose and were restricting flow. Bang on the muffler and see if you can hear anything rattle.

I didn't fully answer your question. The plunger is removable from the KLR cable so it can be put on a new cable. The KLX plunger is one piece NOT removable.

I'm not sure, but it seems like it should have that protrusion to properly seal the enrichener passage.

Hey guys, My 2012 has 4000 miles on it and I just tested it a month ago through some off roading. I'm very much a novice at this but I'm learning. Anyway, I made it through a deep water crossing (it was awesome). DIdn't notice until later on the highway the bike was stuttering at around 55 to 70 MPH. Figured it was the carb (hopefully not a manufacturing defect) took it to my local shop and they said there was water in the air box and carburator and they cleaned it out as well as the air box (no defects). The only thing I did before was open the carb float drain which did seem to help. I have the Clymer manual and I'm slowly figuring stuff out. I can do the float drain and possibly the air box but as of right now, getting into the carburator I'm hesitant to do. I enjoy water crossings and I'm guessing this is something I'll need to learn (love the pics of guys crossing a river with the level up to the seat). However, I was wondering if you know of some good preventative measures I can take for future water crossings? PS. I love this bike (may need to get another for backup). Thanks!

Do the carb t mod to prevent stalling.
Watch your wheel bearings if your in the water often, especially the rear one.
The bike is easy to work on, learn to do it yourself.

+ 1, except . . . Tee mod essential on Generation 1 (2007 and prior) bikes crossing water, because carb vent opening is about 10" above the riding surface. Generation 2 carb vent openings sit about 30" above the ground, under the seat. Tee mod not as essential on the latter-day bikes, IMHO.