I'll be doing mostly street, 2 track, and some single track. I definitely want front and rear spoked wheels. I'd like 9+ inches of ground clearance, and good suspension front/rear. Obviously the 41mm KLR forks are easier. But I don't mind doing some extra work for far better performance. I'd just rather not do the guess work and complete something that has been somewhat documented.
The rear wheel from a ktm lc4 with a cush drive is an easy swap. Uses the same 20mm axle as the ninja. What ever you choose for the front end, try and get the whole front end. Other wise you might end up with a bunch of money in it. The biggest challenge is the wide frame of the ninja limits the lock to lock steering available. A wider triple or more offset will provide more steering.
I'm partial to the xr650r or drz400 (pre 2008). Either have full compression and rebound adjustments, are stiff enough to not need a brace, have all the travel you'll need and are very common. You should have no problem finding a complete front end.
Has anyone used drz400 forks on a ninja build? They're likely my top choice since they are easy to find and likely cheaper than the ktm forks...and maybe since it is sort of a kawasaki model, they will fit easier?
Thanks, I will have to check it out...I'll be on the lookout for a complete KLX/DRZ400 front end, a KTM LC4 rear wheel, etc
After a few thousand miles over the last month, it is still my favorite bike! Stock shock (Sachs) from an Aprilia Dorsoduro will send the seat height skyward. With OAL around 12 3/4" the shock is easiliy adapted to the stock ninja mounts by drilling the the bushings in each end of the shock, the bushings fall out to reveal a nice bearing with a 12mm id. The swingarm bottomed on the stock muffler mount so it was removed. Best on and off road performance of any shock I've had on the bike. Spring and valving are very close, only issue so far is jumping the bike when loaded
Having a Dorso in the garage, I can say that they are readily available as most Dorso owners think the shock is a POS sounds like a natural fit for a rat builder If you don't have at least a 32" inseam, don't even consider it. Check here and your favourite parts source.
Nice, cheapest one on ebay is $245. I'm actually looking to raise the rear end a bit. The R1 shock helped but a little more would be better. I have a 34" inseam so I should be good to go.
Rat builders love a high tail Another recent change that has transformed the bike is the gearing. I was running 15/50, went with 15/52 to drop the 1st gear speed as the clutch was getting abused in any tight off road conditions. Works a treat, better acceleration and the bike is much much happier (read smooth) as it gets out of the lumpy area around 3200rpm quickly. Crusie at 75mph 6100rpm yields 51mpg, roll on power will bring a smile to your face. Downside is the speedo is way off, in the range of 5-7mph. A certain German Mfg calls this a feature but has anyone found a cheap way to change the speedo? ps $100 for a speedo healer is not cheap.
I have a 14t front sprocket coming so I will be running a 14/48, should be close to your gearing. The speedo is already off anyway, what's a few more mph..haha
Should be close. FYI, the counter sprocket can be impossible to get off, might want to order a replacement nut before you try. I went to get mine off and it isn't going to happen without cutting it off. I tried it with an impact wrench with the bike in gear, big mistake, cam chain jumped a couple of teeth, secured the chain to take load off trans and put 5' breaker bar on it, just bent my 1/2" breaker, one thing lead to another and the lobes have been stripped. Tried with heat, nada, tried every penetrant known to man, nada. Good luck.
Well hopefully mine isn't on there as tight. It is only supposed to be 92ft/lbs. we shall see. I mean at some point the front sprocket needs to come off, they certainly don't last forever.
the nut is on there with at least 300# from the factory. use an inch impact socket rather than metric for a better fit, you can easily split a regular socket with that kind of torque. the easiest way to break the nut loose is with a HD impact, or if that doesn't work, lock the sprocket with a piece of small diameter schedule 40 pipe nipple placed against a sprocket tooth and the swingarm, then use a breaker bar. the trans should NOT be in gear.
awesome, sounds like I'm in for a treat this weekend. Maybe I'll get lucky. I don't have an impact gun at my house, so I'll either have to go to my parent's or use my 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater on it. The guidance on not being in gear is likely very valuable. I could see someone ruining their trans with those kind of forces. Luckily the trans is super easy to replace with this bike, another huge selling point for me.
Mostly riding! Just returned from an 1800 mile trip on the Blue Ridge. I have added a prefilter to the airbox, the stocker couldn't handle sand n dust to my satisfaction.