I installed the Kientech jet kit yesterday. All in all, not too difficult. The process was made easier by looking at the diagram in this link. Believe or not, I had no idea where the needle was located. In order to rotate the carburetor, I had to detach the throttle cable and the fuel supply line from the petcock. Detaching and later reattaching the throttle cable was made much more difficult because California charcoal cannister blocked access to it. I later realized the I could have detached the cannister without detaching any of the tubes and given myself more room to work on the throttle cable. The good news is that my DR200SE now starts without having to enable the choke. The bad news is that when running at a constant speed, the engine (cuts out/is missing/runs rough). I'm not sure what the proper term is. Is there a break-in period for the new jets? Are there some adjustment I need to make? What is the purpose of the fuel screw? I adjusted it according to the instructions provided by Kientech, "back out 1 and 1/8th turns as a base setting". Is there further adjustments that I need to make? Removing the airbox lid has made my DR200SE very LOUD. It is significantly louder. Regards.
It sounds as if you may need to raise or lower the clip on the jet needle (the one in the slide). Raising the clip (lowering the needle will lean it out). Lowering the clip will richen the mixture. As a quick check, before you do that, try with the lid back on, if it quits missing, then you know it was too lean. If it gets worse, then it was too rich. The fuel screw adjusts the mixture at ldle and just above. you adjust it by turning in and out until the engine speed peaks, then set it about 1/8 turn out from there.
This. I have seen numerous bikes over the years that would just refuse to run right unless the battery was up to par. My first experience was with my first bike, a CB175 Honda. When the battery was weak, the bike would kickstart OK and idle fine. It would only take throttle very gradually, and not at all with the headlight on. With a fresh battery, no problem. When you open the throttle and let more air in the cylinder pressure goes up, and it becomes harder for the spark to jump the gap. It seems that the engineers insist on marginal charging systems on most motorcycles, and if one component is not up to the job, it just won't work right. I would not recommend disconnecting the battery while the motor is running. That can cause diode failure in the charging circuit.
This sounds like this may be related to another problem I was having. From a standing stop in 1st gear, when I let out the clutch and started to go the engine would start sputtering and I would have to quickly give it more throttle. By "turning it in and out until the engine speed peaks", do you mean that there is fuel screw setting where the engine speed is the highest? I can locate it by turning the fuel screw in the direction that will increase the engine speed until the engine speed begins to decrease? Thanks.
Yest that is correct. Unless the screw happens to be set at peak, it should speed up or slow down when you turn it.
I haven't looked at the DR200 or CB175 stators specifically but every other bike I've torn apart in the last 22 years has 2 circuits on the stator - one for lights and one for ignition. When you buy an aftermarket Ricky Stator, Baja Designs, Trailtech, etc the ignition poles are identical to stock, however the lighting poles are considerably beefier.
Hey, i'm new to ADVrider and well motorcycles in general Today I picked up my first bike an 09' Suzuki Dr200se for $1900 with only 2200 miles on it... well anyways i'm going to perform an oil change and was wondering what kind of synthetic oil do you guys recommend?
I don't think it matters too much, just make sure it's SAE 10W-40 of any kind, and not any energy-saving oil with slippery additives. But after 15,000 miles the shifting started to get stiff on both our 200s. I figured the clutch plates were starting to get warped and dragging a little. Rather than replace the clutches, I tried switching to NAPA synthetic oil and it was just enough slipperier to restore shifting to smooth and buttery.
Turning the fuel screw had no effect on the idle speed (besides burning the back of my hand several times. ) Any suggestions on what I am doing wrong? Thanks.
Just ordered a Tutoro chain oiler for my DR200. I'll post some pictures and a review after installation.
okay, I'm officially an adventure rider... I just sold my 1996 Honda CR125 and 2003 Honda XR100R green/red sticker bikes and just got a street plated DR200SE: only 48 miles!!
As I wrote in an earlier post, after installing the Kientech jets and needle, the engine would "cut out"/"miss". Upon further investigation, this was probably due to a fouled up spark plug. I removed the spark plug and saw that it was covered in carbon. I also noticed that the exhaust gases were very dark. Another problem is that the engine dies when it idles for about 45 seconds. I believe that this is due to the mixture being too rich, but I don't know how this is happening. I have removed the air box lid as instructed. Anyway, I purchased a new spark plug and installed it and the bike ran well for about 15 miles then the engine starting missing again. What's worse is that the engine is still dying at idle. This is really bad when you are first in line at a red light and the engine happens to die right when the light turns green.I removed the new spark plug and it was covered in carbon again! If all fails, next weekend I'm going to reinstall the original jets and needle and HOPEFULLY the engine will work again. I may have to choke it to get it started but at least I will have a working motorcycle. One question I have is what is the purpose of item #28 in the following link? Partzilla. It adjusts the "bottom" of the throttle. How will this affect the idle and the fuel screw setting? I'm thinking that maybe my setting is too low and the "bottom" of the throttle where the engine idles might be too low. Thanks.
Did you do anything with the top of the carb? Or did you just change jets? Did you take the float off or anything? The Kientech jets shouldn't make it run so rich. It's hard to diagnose this remotely. It might help to recheck your work.
I replaced the needle per the instructions I received from Kientech. I did not take the floats off. I replaced the main jet and the pilot jet inside the bottom of the carb. I also replaced the fuel screw. Actually, I re-opened the carb today to make sure everything was a-okay. Everything looked fine. I'm thinking of setting the "adjustor" (i.e., item 28 in Partzilla link) so that the "bottom" of the throttle is higher. Hopefully, this will increase the idle speed and keep the engine from dying.
Adjusting the idle speed idle stop knob (part #28) is no big deal, but the real problem is it seems to be running way to rich. Are you sure an O-ring didn't drop out or something? I'll take a look at the parts diagrams.
It looks like there's an O-ring, a spring, and a washer that sit above the pilot screw. There's an O-ring above the main jet. If any of those got lost or put back in the wrong sequence when you were putting things back together, it would mess up the mixture. I would focus on the main jet first, because a messed up mixture on the idle circuit (the pilot screw and related parts) ought not to make it run so rich that it fouls the spark plug...that would just mess up the idle mixture.
I'm sure I assembled the pilot screw correctly. I didn't notice an O-ring above the main jet. If I lost that, then I'm SOL. I can't even go back to the original main jet if I wanted to. Oh well, $306 for a new carb.
