On the subject of valve checks, what type of feeler gauges are you guys using? I had both a standard flat set and also a set with a 45 degree bend in them but I found both pretty tough to access under the cam lobes. Just wondering if there is something better than what I was using. FWIW, I checked mine a few thousand miles ago at round 14k miles on they were all in spec.
I tried using both when I did the valves on my wife's Street Triple and same as you had a b!tch of a time on a few of the valves.
Just got my seat on. It takes a major wack with fist to get the rear seat to latch. Called Sargent and suggested they consider a very thin shim under that latch when riveting it to the seat. They say it will loosen up with use. Had a Corbin on a Valkyrie with the same issue. Also have to wack it when turning the key to unlatch.
I have one that is still new. Tried the placement and if you want to fiddle around a bit, it may work. It wasn't an easy solution for me. I can sell it to you if interested.
The intake valves are easy, but it is indeed tough to get a standard set of feeler gauges (both straight and 45 degree type) in there to check the exhaust valve clearance. I have a set of smaller craftsman feeler gauges that are a bit less than half the width of the standard size, but they are straight. I bent them to work. They were originally intended for setting plug gap, and I didn't care that I sacrificed them for this bike. They worked better, but there's probably not anything that will make it easy.
I'm a lazy ass and if something doesn't bolt right on, I don't have the skill, patience or time to tinker with it.
This weekend I took my Tiger into the dealer for the turn signal recall. While waiting I took their Explorer demo (non-XC) for a nice long demo ride. Beautiful bike...I was worried it might give me an itch to trade in. Before I post any observations, curious how many others have had an opportunity to compare the two. I know some have traded up to the Explorer, any others who have riden both? Reactions?
Perhaps you'll find your answer here: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21133015&postcount=788
Not really. OE rear mudguard not available in US. I found on in AU and places the order on Saturday. Dealer there contacted me Sunday and said that shipping will be over $60. So, I'll have to settle for the one that I can get there. Hence the reason behind my question.
Found this today while changing tires. It's the left hand axle spacer for the rear tire. The grooves were cut almost 3/4 way around it. Everything else looked fine. Is this going to be an issue? What would have caused this? The bike is an 800XC with 4,500 miles....oh, and a pair of brand new Karoo 3's.
OEM-quality spark plugs are cheap, and you may not be able to visibly detect functional issues. I once found one that would spark fine in open air, but not under compression at TDC. Sort of like doing a timing belt on a car- most likely you have to muck with the water pump anyway, might as well replace it while you're there, and hey, crank main seals are cheap and you're right there- why would you not replace it?
Yeah, dirt in the seals. Clean and re-grease, turn the spacer around. Anxious to hear abou the karoo 3's. They are a GREAT looking tire. Hopefully a LOT better than the karoo 2's - now those were total POS.
Yep had the same thing happen to me, replace the seal and will just have to check and clean more often when riding dirt!
What causes this is soft alloy and dirt. IMO Triumph should have taken the time to have them heat treated to harden them. Only way to stop this, as far as I can see, is get some made of a harder material. Or, as I might do, is buy a new set and get them Chrome plated..........for those that are unaware, Chrome is very hard.
I completely agree with this. I bought some Irridium plugs for my 955 but after 12K I hadn't noticed any difference in how the bike ran and I wasn't that confident about them going another 12K so I replaced them with new standard NGKs. For the sake of a £Tenner£ it just gives peace of mind.
I've ridden the Explorer. IMO it's a good bike with great power. Handles and steers well. The standard screen works better than their taller one. Whilst it can do dirt roads quite well, it is, however, just too heavy to do any half serious trails riding. I think in any sort of nadgery and/or rocky terrain it'll be taking plenty of naps. A bit like the big BMWs do. The trouble with the Explorer compared to the Boxer twins is that it'll lay down all the way, rather than being propped up by cylinders poking out the side. Then you've got 270+ Kgs to pick up from a horizontal position. I would imagine, if you want a bike for two-up touring that can do rough roads it's one of the best tools on the market.
When a customer was paying me 5 hours of labor to replace a timing belt I always recommended a set of front crank and cam seals. This was because it was a labor intensive job, and I couldn't "see" the hardness of the seal material or the condition of the seal lip without removing the seal, which of course destroys it. Things are a little different with a spark plug. I can see the condition of the electrodes. I can measure the gap and determine the amount of wear already incurred. I can (and did) re-gap them to spec. NGK plugs have a legendary reputation anyway. And lastly, if I'm wrong and start having issues I can replace all of the spark plugs in less than a half hour in a parking lot with a 5mm Allen, a 14mm socket, and a 16mm socket & ratchet. Practically any auto parts store in any city will sell me the plugs at half of the cost from Triumph and loan me the tools to do it. I did my 12k for less than $90 including a gallon of amsoil synthetic 10 w 40, a triumph factory air filter, and a Triumph factory oil filter. Or I could have spent $200 to get the complete service kit from triumph, dealer oil, and dealer plugs, and had a cam cover that doesn't leak just like the gasket I re-used, and spark plugs that spark just like the ones I re-used, and had that oh so good feeling of throwing parts in a landfill that were still within service limits. Do I recommend you do the same? Not necessarily, unless you know how to truly determine when something should be replaced. I know a thing or two about engines and felt comfortable making the decision. As always, ymmv.