Thanks guys; pipe was free! Asshole neighbor that isn't happy about my deeded easement and was trying to sell his piece of property cut down my telephone pole gate posts with his chainsaw. I figure this will slow him down!
Filling with concrete is a brilliant idea!! The combo of through-bolts and concrete would work indeed!!!
Might want to coat the inside of the pipe w/ something too, i'm thinking, might not matter, but cap the bottom and roll it around w/ some por 15 inside, let that set, and that should further prevent the pipe rusting out. Hope he never wants to remove them...
6" sch. 40 pipe will hold roughly 1.4 cu.ft. of concrete per Ft. in length and @ 3,000 lbs/27 cu.ft. It don't take much 6" pipe to get really heavy and with about 4' of it burried in the ground and 4' or 5' above ground. You shouldn't have to worry about anyone moving it.
i' have never tryed tig welding magnesium, have done lots of steel, ss steel, and alum. but ain't tryed magnesium. soo my questions are, what is the proper tungston pure, 2% thoriated? what gas argon, helium, mix, grind tungston, or ''ball'' it , ac, like alum? or dc? thanks for the advice.
To get a good weld on stainless you do have to purge the backside of the weld with pure argon. You can do this with spare argon tank and reg, and with exhaust it should be fairly easy. After everything is tacked, tape up one end completely then the other end as well, and feed the hose through a small hole in the tape. Set the reg to around 15 cfh and let it run for a minute or 2 to purge out the oxygen in the pipe. After that you should be able to weld it perfectly.
AC is all I have ever used.. Tungsten choice depends on the machine, Older/Sq Wave= Pure (ball), Inverter=Ceriated, grind to a truncated point and it will slightly ball on it's own). Gas choice is dictated by your machine again and how thick the section is, thinner stuff pure argon is good, thick/big sections that your machine is maxed out on go with Ar/He mix. Wire and base metal should be CLEAN, and free from any oxidation, oil, etc. Mg wire will oxidize while you are watching it..:) (You can stick Mg to Alum...but it will not hold). NEVER take the gas flow away from the molten pool...EVER till it is solidified. It welds alot like aluminum only it solidifies quicker. With ANY grinding / cutting / filing, it will make dust, with that you can start a fire with just the dust or saw chips and grinding steel sparks on the same machine (like a belt sander) or even one close to it...it will flare..and you won't put it out...till it runs out of oxygen or fuel...NO WATER...and a fire extinguisher only makes it worse, (unless you are trained to put it out). I am sure I left out a TON of precautions to take...however it can be welded and it isn't that hard really, just be careful with it..
:eek1 :eek1 :eek1 I just read the lot. You blokes have no idea how much my head hurts........ Give me electrickery anyday...... I'm not a welder's bum, but I can weld stuff (mild steel) so it stays together. I was told welding stainless in thin guage like 1.2mm is the same as welding mild steel in 1.6mm thickness, due to the hardness of the stainless pipe. Is this the case, or is the 1.2mm stainless easier to put a hole through than 1.6mm mild steel? Nothing structural, just exhaust systems. Gasless MIG, 0.9mm flux-core. Damn my head hurts......
<BR> The same thickness of SS burns through easier because heat moves through the material slower. You'll be using gassles SS flux core wire? I've never seen that. <BR>
No, me neither! Just normal flux-core for mild steel, but was going to upgrade to a gas set-up if the test pieces worked out OK. Just wasn't sure how the SS compared to mild when welding.
<BR> Made me look! Check the bottom of this page for Flux Cored Stainless Steel Wire, ER 308 - FCO (For Gasless Welding) http://us-forge.com/Products/Welding/mig.htm Note: SS filler needs less current. <BR>
thanks for the help, pretty much like i had guessed. they were a set of twine arms off of an old freeman hay baler. an yes it does weld alot like alum, an prep is the same, CLEAN. i have heard iron powder will put out , or smother it out, i was quite careful with the grinding during prep. thanks again.
Cast Iron is really soft. a good sharp drill bit will go thru quite easily and it can , if necessary, be cut without much effort with a hack saw. Drill mounting holes and mount the gate prior to filling with concrete, rent a concrete vibrator to get the mud past the mounting bolts and to make sure there are no voids in the pipe............ edit. Don't know if I need to mention this or not..... but here it is anyway... make sure the drill bit is at 90 degreess to the pipe when it penetrates the other side and use a good level, when you set the post in concrete, to be sure the post is plumb.
ok what i am trying to do is have the weld come as close as possible to the in color/shade of the original base metal.i am needing to weld a side case for an old italian bike.1965 parilla garelli kl125 to be specific. thanx fer any hep
Parts need to be wire brushed or chemicaly cleaned to remove oxidation and any other contaminates before they can be welded.Which will result in a bright finish. If your intention is to hide the welded part there are several firearms refinishing business that can probably oxidize the case to look authentic.
Question; If your only planning on welding steel and using the TIG process, are there any advantages of spending upwards of 1k on a TIG machine when you can just convert a "buzz box" stick welder for less than $200 to TIG weld with?
What are you calling a "buzz Box" to me that is an old lincoln, or similar, that is capable of A/C only welding current. I didn't know there is a conversion kit to make that type of machine capable of D/C welding current. Can you post a link on info about the conversion kit?
<BR>I think I've seen ads for a TIG conversion box with an internal rectifier to convert the AC to DC. <BR>