the DR650 thread

Tight coils up is the way they come from the factory.

2" PVC pipe works, you can use the old seals to drive the new ones in, they fit nicely on top of each other.

I used the wire brush on my bench grinder around the outside of the old seal to take the rubber coating off; so it wouldn't stick in the fork tube on top of the new seal (someone else's idea, werked fer me).

I got my new Clymer manual today from ProCycle (thanks!) and I looked through it quickly and found what it says for the header bolts.

Page 66

6.b. Install a new gasket jnto the cylinder head exhaust port.
6.c. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads.
6.d. Tighten the exhaust pipe retaining bolts securely.

6.f. Retighten the bolts after running the engine and allowing it to cool.

I didn't look at my Suzi factory manual but I expect it to say the same thing.
Anti-seize and retighten.

Not sure what torque value "securely" is though

I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.

According to my manual, Exhaust bolts torque to 26NM

Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

Dropped? It looks like you hit a truck at 80 mph. The bar mount is mounted in rubber through the top triple clamp so you might be able to tweak that back in line.

@ GIPPYPHIL
Get some RENTHAL BARS to replace the bent ones , and by the look of it from your pic the BAR CLAMP does look to bad ................take the bars of and get some better pics please
Phil

80mph?! I wish - that would at least be a great story to tell. I got into the wrong track on a heavily rutted farming road and lost the front end at about 30-40kph.

It's really not that difficult. Practice makes it easier.

You likely didn't keep the tire down in the deep part of the rim while trying to lever it on so it was probably a lot harder than it should be. Maybe you should get an old wheel and practice a few times? Knowing how to fix it will get you out of a long walk someday.

As PhilinFrance mentioned - better pics needed, It is possible all is okay with the clamp, or you just bent the mounting bolt, The clamp mounting bolt goes thru the mount and the mount reminds me of a rubber dome covered by a metal cup. You can get a lot of movement out of it on a crash before you do real damage, I've loosened everything up and reset it a couple of times with no issues on mine after some minor dirt naps,

Bars are a personal choice but PinF makes a good recommendation. I went with ProCycles big bar kit and risers. I like it,

Do a part by part disassembly with pics at each stage. It'll help with the diagnosis and give ya something to look at on reassembly. Most importantly, you're okay enough to type about it - no major personal body damage.

A mans got to know his limitations. It just takes a little practice, patience, and the right tools.

Use talc powder (baby powder) all over tubes to allow them to slip & slide around while putting them in there. The last set of tires I did (the DR650's) I used baby powder on the tire beads (instead of soapy water) as well. Hard to believe I didn't screw all of it up, but the Shinkos are still holding air and good to go.

Had two new Shinko 230 Tour Masters to put on,the front one went on good and seated/no leaks.The rear one was tough,went to air up and it started spitting air.38-40$ at the shop, 20$ for the tube:eek1,16$ for the change out.
And I still have to replace the worn out nobbles with new D606's,front and rear:eek1(may just take the rear to the shop,only16$ for change out).
I have been using cable lube(have two buckets of the stuff).

I believe you are thinking the exhaust CLAMP BOLT is the same as the header bolts.

The clamp bolt is torqued to 26nm (19 ft/lb), yes.

Thanks for checking

EDIT;
I had to check what the official Suzi manual says and after a long search I found it in the "periodic maintenance" section.
Page 2-14

You are correct Sir!
Suzi says that ALL the exhaust bolts are the same at 26nm (19 ft/lb)

So Clymer doesn't put the bolts in the same group in their new manual

It's possible that nothing is actually bent. My bars were tweaked a lot after a crash as well. Try this before spending money on new stuff. Roll the bike up so the front wheel is next to something solid (telephone pole, wall, truck bumper, etc). Turn the handlebars in the direction necessary to make them align with the front wheel WITHOUT ALLOWING THE FRONT WHEEL TO TURN (steer, not roll).
The handlebars are rubber mounted and can easily be aligned and misaligned for damage resistance in crashes.

Loosen the bolts on the bar clamps. There are rubber cones (parts 12 &13 in the attached diagram)that are probably deformed. They will go back to their original shape as soon as you unclamp the bars. Be sure bolt # 11 isn't bent.

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...el/DR650SE/GroupID/254149/Group/STEERING_STEM

He's definitely got bent parts. The bars are toast and the bolt that goes through the left clamp is obviously very bent. It's a pretty easy fix. The front end may also be twisted but the place to start is new bars and a new clamp bolt.

Tires are tough, no question. Experience helps ... but I've been doing it for years and still suffer ... but I'm cheap and don't have all the best and proper tools. Having the right tools and techniques really makes things much easier. Take it from a "right bodger" !

On the DR certain rear road tires can be VERY tough to break the bead on.
A real bead breaker is a must. The Avon Distanzia can be a real BEAR to break the bead on.

For remounting try using the BIG Zip tie method. Documented here somewhere ... but basically using 4 or 5 BIG HD Zip ties to squish the two beads together to get the tire beads deep into the wheel well. This means less chance to pinch a tube and easier to pop it back on. Good smooth nose irons really help too. Once tire is on ... pull Zip ties out!

But in the end ... if you have room and some extra cash ... think about something like the No-Mar tire machine. A God Send!