Hey guys. Noob here planning a father&son TAT ride and considering a 93 dr250 (s? se? it's the dual sport version) and 99 dr350sex (dual sport version) as the bikes to do it on. I have read at least half this thread but haven't been able to answer my questions. I have no idea what the letter codes for the 250 should be, I think it would be an S or SE and I think the 350 is an SE, never seen the X (maybe it's a joke? SEX) but again, I'm a noob. My question is: what consumables interchange? as in brake pads, oil and air filters, clutch and throttle cables, brake and clutch levers, seats, fuel tanks and petcocks, carb kits, etc. Both bikes need at best some TLC and at worst rebuilds of everything but the engines/transmissions. I plan to grease suspension and wheel bearings, replace appropriate seals, lube or replace cables (and carry spares), replace and carry spare levers, change any vacuum petcocks I find (don't own the bikes yet, planning 2 retrieval trips this weekend), and probably make at least 1 gas tank swap, might buy a Corbin seat from the flea market and want to know if it'll fit both bikes or just one. Thanks a TON for your help! hope i join the DR ranks soon!
The X in sex is year code. I don't have any experience with the 250,but it's my understanding that it's the same bike just a different motor basically.
Howdy, I am looking for a kickstart lever for my '90 dr350s. More specifically a shortened one. Last summer at a KTM demo ride, as a KTM employee was trying to tell me not to give my DR any gas while I was starting it (like it was sum newfangled fuel injected bike), he made a point that newer bikes have shorter kickstart levers for less torque, faster rotation. Makes sense. My DR isn't too hard to turn over, unless it's in that one spot in the rotation, so I want to look into some possibilities. Anyway, any help would be appreciated, like if newer RMZ levers will fit, or even just the size of the splines. Thanks!
He's got the pumper carb, so no float cage like on the CV carb. I'm working to source the smaller O-ring for the other side of the float cage on the CV carb as an addition to my O-ring kit, but I don't have one yet. Regards, Gregory Bender
Sounds like a great plan to me and the DR is more than adequate for the TAT (at least the section I've been on through New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah). I'd pull both swing arms off for a thorough cleaning/inspection/lubrication. If they've been well cared for (greased regularly), you'll probably only need to replace the lower shock bushing/bolt that is not greased. As for wheel bearings, I'd replace them all. Replacement kits from All Balls Racing are of good quality and include all of the bearings and seals (pretty inexpensive, too). High capacity gas tanks (4 gallons) would be a great addition for the TAT. I'm looking forward to trips like that with my children when they get old enough :> Regards, Gregory Bender
anyone the differences between the brake lines on the 90-94 dr350 and the dr350s bikes? They have different oem part numbers, my front line is shot and was looking at aftermarket lines. I imagine maybe the length is a little different with the same banjo connections?
Does anyone know where I could find some? Would like to see price for store bought vs me making them. THanks
Appreciate the input! My largest areas of concern at the moment are charging systems. I know the bikes OEM part numbers differ but I wonder if one might fit the other in an emergency or as an upgrade? I've spent several hours on parts sites comparing part numbers and here is a short list of what I've found so far: FITS BOTH oil filter: EMGO: 301701 Turn signal lens, amber: k&s 21534 clutch spring set: ebc: 382014 front sprockets interchange clutch kit:ebc:384071 exhaust (from headpipe back anyway...)same skid plate same foot pegs same push/pull throttle cables: motion pro: 040144 fits both shifters interchange rear disc guard fits both moose shark fin air filters interchange front brake pins interchange front tires interchange rear tires interchange fork seals interchange frame covers interchange front fenders interchange rear fenders interchange rear axles interchange both sides chain adjuster interchange front caps interchange front protector tubes interchange front spoke sets interchange front rims interchange front innertubes interchange Doesn't Fit Both speedo drive differ starters differ front brake rotors different rear hub different front master cylinders differ rear wheel bearings differ clutch cables differ front wheel bearings differ shock bearings differ rear rotors differ front hub differ front axles differ Definitely more work to do but this list is more complete than I'd expected it would be by now. Seems most engine parts differ which was surprising. I'd been told they were the same except for the top-end. Also the clutch cables being different was a shocker and I think it might be as simple as one being about an inch-and-a-half longer than the other. If that proves to be true I'll just pack the longer one as the spare for the trip probably. Are the TW cables that much better? Seem to be about double $ most places. One of the bikes has a larger Acerbis tank installed but I'll most likely install the yamaha raptor petcocks in both bikes. Vacuum petcocks have never made sense to me and I've only known of a couple failures personally but I have no intention of fighting that battle in the middle of nowhere.
Guess you have concidered using two 350s, if the boy can handle it. Might need lowering. Don't think there's a lot of difference in size and weight. Power is a little different. 250 makes power at higher rpms, 350 probably has more grunt.
Alright, put the new plug in. Bike ran great for a few minutes with only slight sputtering. I decided to take a look at the air/fuel mixture screw to see if possibly it was moved or needed adjustment. I turned it one full turn counterclockwise and the bike began running worse. I then set it back to where it was originally then turned it in one full turn and that was the most it would go in. The bike's behavior was the same: sputtering and popping out of the tailpipe. I decided to check the new plug, it looked like it was on its way to getting fouled. I then pulled the carb off and saw that there was fuel in the intake manifold. The float valve is sealing fine. I can't even blow air into the tube with the float raised. I then bent the tab on the float just a little to lower the level of fuel in the bowl and put the bike back together. It is back to running like pure shit. I am ready to unload a full magazine into it and forget about this POS Suzuki.
Try checking both idle jets again, air and fuel and their respective passages. Also maybe some one has a spare cdi you can try.
For the life of me I cannot figure out where the fuel is coming from. The float valve is sealing 100%... I got so pissed with it I ended up giving it full throttle for a minute to see if the motor would blow and I could be done with this pile of junk. There was a black cloud of unburnt fuel coming out of the tail pipe. I just took the carb off again and smoke came out of the intake manifold. Everything in the carb is in place and tight. The float seems to be at the right level... is there any way fuel could be coming through the pumper jet and into the intake???
EDIT - Whups, missed it. You just said you have a pumper. I had an idea, but it doesn't apply to your carb. Sorry about that. Seriously though... it's something small, probably rubber, allowing fuel to leak through to where it ought not be... Needle & seat, seat o-ring, pilot screw o-ring, accelerator pump seals & check valve, choke (enrichment circuit) plunger and / or seals. Make sure your jets aren't loose. I've heard of jets loosening up, raising hell with the mixture.
the pumper piston just squirts fuel from the bowl, I guess if the pumper parts were missing it possibly suck fuel through that circuit, i doubt the parts are missing though. I think its more likely you have an obstruction in your air filter, is that a possiblilty? Or your choke is vibrating closed, I had one do that, and it was the exact same symptoms. edit-just read back a couple of pages to trace your findings so far. have you done a compression check?
All of the parts are there for the pumper assembly... I just thoroughly cleaned this carb a few months ago and it was running like a top. How would compression affect it running rich? What do you mean by choke vibrating closed? It has the same behavior with the choke open or closed. These problems started right after I put on the Acerbis tank... maybe the extra fuel is putting more pressure into the line and its leaking somewhere into the intake??? I have the carb totally disassembled now sitting it a bath of citric acid. I'll let it soak over night and put it back together tomorrow to see what happens. I guess my next step is to order a new TM33... I don't understand how this bike can run like a raped ape for a few months then on one 2 hour ride fall on its face? I should have listened to myself and not bought another carbureted piece of shit. At this point this bike has become a project vehicle and cannot be trusted to be reliable enough to be a daily driver. Hopefully by the beginning of March I can go to AZ and pick up a new Husqvarna Terra 650 (with fuel injection ). If a new carb doesn't solve this issue, I may be posting a new video on Youtube of me emptying a few mags with the AR-15 into this shit box.
didn't know he was going to stop making them. This guy use to make copies of the OEM rack. I have a OEM and they are awesome. Small and out fo the way, but better yet they are great grab handles for picking the bike as the stock grab bar doesn't really have aplace for you to grab. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR-3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c38838f3&vxp=mtr
It almost has to have something to do with this , did you wash the new tank out ? I have heard of lots of bits of plastic being in those new tanks . Are you sure of your cable routing under the new tank ?