Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

PM'd you.


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I put a Kush sprocket on my 09 FE450 for around $100 it is cheap and easy (yea, just like me) and has held up well so far....about 600 miles. I think I felt a notable difference the first time I rode it but not sure if that was just my expectations clouding my judgement or a real improvement. Get one and post if you notice any change.

My 450 has 200 hours and is running strong. It is just a youngster compared to many others here. I think Lost Rider must be closing in on 20K miles on his 570 without anything other than oil changes (2000+ mile interval) and a couple of valve adjustments. If it was near me I would jump on it.

2000+ mile interval? How does one get away with that, given the recommended interval of 10% of that. . .?

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my opinion on a few questions asked over the last 24 hours..

1. Yes you can use a KTM Cush hub from a 640.. I have one on mine.. I bought it from a guy using it on another Husa, so I dont know what he did to set it up.. I think new spacers?

2. Suspension.. go to Youtube .. well here.. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=slavens%20racing&sm=1 he shows you how to do your forks.. Slavens was the guru for KTM/Husa suspension and slavens racing sells everything you will need to do it yourself.. Not that I have done mine, but I intend to.

3. Plastics.. I got my spare set here.. .http://www.ktm-parts.com/SBMHUSPL.html sign up and you get 10% off... I buy most of my Husaberg stuff from them... they have some good sales on occasion.

4. If that 390 was maintained up at Cliff's I would jump on it.. those guys are the best.. and will take care of you.. they still take care of me even though I moved across the country, when I have questions I call them.. all the way from here in CO.

5. The Rekluse cups.. yes that was one of the things that seemed unclear on the instructions.. those cups.. and the different sizes of the spacers.. getting that gap exactly where they recommend it is key to getting the Z-Start to work properly in the tight ass Husa/KTM cutches.

6. Oil changes..not sure where 200 mile oil changes are recommended? Manual says every 15 hours.. or after every race. There are real world examples, Lukas, Beta, Lostrider.. who have put many many more miles on their Bergs between oil changes when used in a non race mode.. here is a good post http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19713500#post19713500 as you can see Barton's bike certainly didnt live an easy life.

did I miss anything?

Great answers 10x, thanks. The oil change recommendation came from my local dealer. I did some more reading here and see a lot of good examples of people running longer intervals. Good stuff!

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Just realized the rear wheel I got is a 2.50 not a 2.16 and I'd like to know how a 120/100/18 will fit before I try and mount it. Any ideas? It's laced with HD spokes to a Cush hub.


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I ran a trials tire (4.00"/ 100mm width) on a 2.5" rim before, I know it isn't the ideal rim width, but I had no issues. The 120 should be no problem.

I got the set used and I'd love to know what the 2.5 is off or typically used for? An sumo wheel is 4.5 or 5" right?


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Usually spec'd for a bigger bike I think and more TAR oriented. ( ie Ktm 640 )

Yes get it for a spare, then I could ride it and you wouldn't have to inhale 2 stroke fumes any more

Striking out all around today. Went to see a bike and it was bit too much. Then the owner of the FE390 emailed and said it sold. Ugh....

I thought this would be quick and easy.

does anyone know where the connector for the brake light switch is located? I'm having a hard time finding this bloody thing.



Also, this is the strange thing going on with my kill switch. Yellow/black wire coming off of the handle bar switch does nothing when connected to either of these yellow/black leads.

The only way to get the kill switch functioning is to attach it to this mystery black lead with spade connector. Looks like it should be a horn circuit or something.

Yeah we coulda had some fun with that.

I think the brake light connector is hidden up under the battery somewhere tied to the harness, think I had to drop my shock to get at it from the bottom.

Yes, there is a small white flat 3 or 4 pin connector hidden around the battery area where the brake light assembly plugs into.

well, you might not have any brake light switches at all. mine didn't. (and i only added the rear switch)

the front switch itself is mounted on the bottom of the front brake lever mount, has 2 wires and a small connector running down the bars behind the cowl.

the rear brake switch is mounted on the top of the rear master cylinder, typically replacing the banjo bolt on the rear brake line. this will have 2 wires on it and connect up to the harness under the seat area.

there are 2 kill switch wire connections. check by the radiator for the other pair of yellow/black wires. this spade connector is probably a jumper to that other set of wires fowling up the whole system.

What are the pros or cons of a floating front disc.


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the braking surface of the rotor is suspended by "floating" rivets, held in place by the inner rotor cage.

edit: damnit! i correct myself....the Berg does NOT have a floating front rotor but it may benefit from one. sorry, too many bikes not enough brains.

under heavy braking, the rotor will get very hot, the "floating" rivets allow the rotor to expand slightly as it heats, thus reducing warping of the braking surface.

solid rotors are for dirt bikes (this too i have wrong, my KX250 has a floating front rotor! 2 for 2!) that dont see highway use where braking is less precise and less intense.

My 2011 didn't come with a front floating disc. However the one I got as a spare did.


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My next question, anyone want to trade a set of regular blue D.I.D dirt stars for a set of silver D.I.D DS laced with heavy duty spokes to a real Cush hub rear and Talon front?

Edit: I have HD / silver / Cush. I want blue.


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