Thanks for the beta. Even without measuring the dampers seem to have transformed a bit during the 280 hours. When was the last time you had the front sprocket off for a look at the drive shaft? Did you notice any deformation of the shaft spines at all?
Just changed the sprockets and chain last week. Splines on the shaft still ok. ...but I got 285hrs out of my dampers and Rekluse reckon 20hrs so I guess I'm not riding it that hard 555. I was putting regular grease on the splines which didn't last long. Recently switched to bearing retainer to provide a cushion . Btw, vibration increases with damper wear. Noticeable reduction in vibes with the new damper rubbers installed.
Just how do you do that lol. I have a volt meter but where do u check that? Can you pm me with details Thanks
There are post on here with pictures and more info. I don't know where they are but not too far back. Option 1 Basically you just pull back to boot cover and loosen screw with torq screwdriver and them move the head counter clockwise just a hair. doesn take much. This will increase richness. Tight it down and ride it. Option 2 They make an electrical pig tail and plugs into you tps sockets and give you a wire for each and you can check electrical with good digital volt meter. Ignition turn on. Don't have time now for more details but look in this thread for better info. It really made a difference and my runs much better than ever.
Adjusting the TPS does not necessarily "increase the richness". The TPS does just what its name implies; it provides input to the engine management computer regarding the position of the throttle. How the computer processes that data depends on other prevailing conditions: engine speed, load, vehicle speed, engine and ambient temperatures, and so on. This information from the TPS is especially critical for proper startup and idle, as well as smooth throttle response. In Vico1's option 2 this the pigtail that is inserted into the TPS connector. It is a Suzuki part and the part number is displayed in the second pic. My TPS measured .590 from the factory and I changed it to .603 and noticed an definite improvement in throttle response. I may increase the voltage a bit more once the rains subside and the slick clay becomes less of an issue to see if it increases the response even more.
I plan on installing the samco hose kit and ditching the thermostat very soon. i just wanted to clarify, what is needed electronically to delete the thermostat? plug Eliminator? Will the ecu throw a code if the thermo isnt in place? Thanks fellas
The Suzuki test plug is the best $40 or so you will ever spend! Mine was at .590-ish from the factory. I set it to .608 and it seemed a little better. I just changed it to .638 and it definitely feels snappier. In fact, I think it is now worth investing in the mapping switch for use in slick conditions.
Thanks for the info! It's nice to know that the thing has improved Thank you for the info! It's the first bike that I purchase used, and it seems that the first owner did not crash hard enough, enough times! You're welcome! And I wish I could rebend the tip as well as you did, in case that I would need it (knock on wood )
Speaking of headlights, check this out from our 70 degree Berg friends: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22402952&postcount=4295 Think I'm going to try one.
For those that like to have options for Dual Sport use, I've created a Schematic that shows the upgrades I've done on my bike. I've successfully tested this setup on the latest RMAR Quien Sabe 600 ride. The lights performed flawlessly. Notes: The TrailTech Computer has a VERY bright display when it is plugged into the 12v system. This is way too bright when driving at night. So, I integrated a switch so I could disconnect the 12V power supply, and disable the bright display at night. The LED Lights are controlled using the stock combination switch on the left handle bar. This is easier to use when riding on the road and switching between hi and lo with oncoming traffic. As well, it provides cleaner power to the LED lights via the relays. The guys in the front are using the exhaust to warm their hands....... very cold.... This was taken this past Friday close to Chama, somewhere up in the mountains.....
SteveO those pix are mental. Mid 80's in the FL sand yesterday, Ocala National Forest. Had to get the nuts on the tank and a 2 foot push off to make it over this one. Hard to get a good run up in the soft stuff. Check out those yellow bike thinkin too much back there .
I am running the trail tech voyager with the thermostat eliminator/coolant temp sensor and at first I was worried about the bike not getting up to temp for the most efficient fuel injection. So I installed the temp sensor and thermostat by adding more hose and I determined the thermostat is almost worthless. The bike heats up at practically the same rate and it stays right about 155 without t-stat and 165 with t-stat. It is hardly a difference I would worry about and plus it is less failure prone parts to worry about. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4
Not once ambient gets below 60F. My bike will stay at 110 and honestly I dont feel that's warm enough. I plan on getting the trail tech inline temp sensor and reinstalling the tstat. Last year I had one radiator blocked and still would only get to about 120F at anything below 60F and I did my fair share of rides all the way down to 20F. Not sure Ive ever seen 155F.
So im a little lost on this, as to whether or not to remove the Tstat. im in california and have had my xcw boil a few times now. my intentions were to remove the thermostat, put the samco hose kit in and evans coolant. From what i gather, ill need an eliminator in place of the Tstat and a temp sensor to ditch the stock thermostat?
I think the Samco eliminates it all on it's own. (actually I see now you can order it with or without tstat bypass) I was speaking from the trail tech kit where it includes a bypass that replaces the t-stat itself with a temp sensor for the dash that is informational only. The FI gets it temp reading from the head I think, there's no wires attached to the t-stat housing. There's a fan switch mounted on the radiator and a temp switch on the the head that are not interfered with. Is that what you're asking? Is this the same Wolf from SMJ?
Thank you for the info, that about sums up what i was asking for. I think there are a few "wolf" posters on the smj board, but yea i have an account there. Never really posted much on that forum though, and since i sold my sumo set up i havent really been back.
What I found out last year doing a little googling.. one of the best ways to keep your motor cooler in warmer temps places is using distilled water and water wetter. this should lower your temp and your bike cooler in the warm weather, less prone to over heating. Also a very cheap method that works, well for me.
Thanks for the info, but i already have wetter in the radiator. Had my dealer put it in before i picked the bike up a year ago. I looked at the odometer for the first time in months and saw i only have 108 miles on the bike. in my defense... i semi sold the bike for about 5 months. but before my friend could pick it up, he got sent to jail. for what is gonna be a looooong time haha. so i gave him a refund and im starting back on the dirt scene. well... kinda.
I eliminated my tstat and I also live in California and have had no issues for 2000 miles in much colder climate you may have issues as the bike will not get hot enough but in california you wont have any issues. Instead of a samco full $150.00 kit I ordered the oem radiator line from the 450sx that would normally connect to the tstat and then order the samco tstat plug for the radiator hole left over altogether it was less than $50.00 bucks. Use the Evans Waterless Coolant and you will never boil over again. my fan has only turned on twice for a few seconds and that was in 90 degree weather rock and boulder crawling for a couple hrs in a wash. I installed that set up about 2000 miles ago.
Watch out with water wetter and distilled water. It has no anti-corrosive elements to it. I forgot to say that I drained the factory coolant and have been using Engine Ice and a higher pressure radiator cap because before I did the tstat delete the bike was getting very hot when the trails got technical. Not overheating but the fan would stay on for extended periods. Fan hasn't come on since the Engine Ice and hasn't really been above 180 with the tstat delete unless I sit and idle with it. The Wolf, I am aptard on SMJ.
