New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

i was going to just remove and replace the overflow tank because of this but for the life of me could not figure out how to pull it out of the frame, so i painted it up with rtv

I have performed the above procedure, including installing a Renazco billet filler neck and an in-line one way valve to the scavenge fuel hose. My problem is that I am building pressure inside the tank (fuel vapors normal expansion).
I thought the one way valve would stop the denser fuel from escaping, while allowing some air to exit to accommodate fuel vapors and ,of course, allowing air to come in to fill tank as fuel is depleted. Do I need a different valve, or should I just vent the hose to atmosphere without any valve?

I would appreciate a comment from those that have performed this modification.

TIA,

John

I'm sensing a trend that Mookie is fond of RTV.

I installed the Renazco neck as well but with no valve. I eliminated the evap canister so just cut the hose to the correct length after running it down by the right side of the shock.
I was fueling one day and when I removed the gas cap I noticed a vacuum had built in the tank. Removed the seat to see what was amiss (it's just a rubber line wtf could be the issue? :huh). The seat bumper that rests on top of the battery hold down was pinching the vent line. Moved the line and zip tied it out of the way.
Gotta give credit to the fuel system on the 690, not even a hiccup out of the engine with a vacuum in the tank.

Well that´s a first! :eek1

Gotta throw the dog a bone occasionally.

Barman,
I appreciate your reply. In your case, the pinched fuel line was the culprit. I do not have any "kinks" on the line, but following the procedures on Bartron's "code orange" thread to do a partial canirestomy and installing the one way valve has not worked as advertised.
I know that lot's of inmates have done this modification, so my question is: have you just vented to the atmosphere as Barman did, or did you use a one way valve? If you did, how is it working out?

I've been just running the vent to the atmosphere ... been like this for more than 3 years now with zero problems.
I just don't trust those 1-way valves.

I use a valve on my safari tank. I have had problems in the past on particularly dusty rides when it has become blocked and starved the engine of fuel. It was simple enough to unblock by removing, tapping on the handle bars and sucking some air through. Its been pretty reliable otherwise. They recommend atleast 1 inch of vent hose between the pertrol cap and the valve for them to work....maybe thats your problem?

I suspect those 1 way valves lock up when the fuel & vapours expand , ie leave your bike sitting in the sun .

Pretty much the plan. I was hoping with a few heat cycles the rubber grommet thing would expand and seal properly. Now on to plan B - rvt

Probably the culprit. Both times I've had one lock up it's been riding out in some serious heat. I just stopped using the things and went back to regular hose.

John,

I have a full cannisterectomy on my 2010 R and I also have the Renazco filler neck and Acerbis cap. I am assuming here that you also have an Acerbis screw-on cap. If so the cap has a center vent recessed into it. I just use a no-slop short hose valve (about 2 1/2 inches high) which allows the tank to breathe but prevents excess fuel from escaping. The no slop valve just mounts vertically into the cap recess and onto the male vent. I have the factory vent hose, which is connected to nothing at either end, just tucked under the seat. No vacuum problems with my tank and I routinely fill it to its maximum capacity, i.e., 3.2 gallons.

Hope this helps.

P.S. No problems with gas tank venting in almost three years, with the bike left in the sun (in Southern Nevada summers), in the shade, etc. Got a good quality no-slop valve at Cycle Gear and it has never failed.

Thanks to all for the replies.

Nippybit, I will probably try that next, or just vent to atmosphere. I had that same setup on my previous bike on a Clark 4.2 gallon tank.

Bartron's "code Orange" thread describes the method I followed for the partial "canirestomy"and so I figured others have done the same. He recommends what you did, OR the in-line valve as I did. Either method accomplishes the same as the valve is supposed to perform the same function, whether is mounted to the gas cap or in-line.
BTW, the expansion has been due to just normal summer riding as I have not parked the bike in the sun for any extended periods. A friend who is a pretty good mechanic and does all the work on his own bikes ( but does not have a KTM) thinks that the amount of pressure that builds up is not sufficient to have a detrimental effect. So far, the bike runs great, but my concern is long term.

I have been using these for a couple of years with no issues.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...-Tube-Vent-Cap-With-Tube.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch

I have three of them on the bike since I am running the Rally Raid tanks. I did a week in Baja with tons of dust. Never a problem.

I have been noticing my 08 (20,000 Kms) getting harder to start when I first fire it up after sitting over night or all day. Spark plug has about 6000kms,
valves have been done recently and that was no help,
tried different brands of fuel no different
even replaced the battery with a Shorai but it still starts hard! Any one able to shed some advice on a fix?
It usually starts very easy.

I need help with installing led turn signals. Anyone install these? Says to cut the purple and black wires coming from indicator light. It is part of the wire harness. Should I do this?

On the back, the turn signals have *very* long leads. They actually connect into the wiring harness up near the battery. The fronts are a bit more typical. Yes, cut the leads off and solder them to the new signals. I recommend staggering the splices so they can still fit through the mounting holes.

I don't know what kind of LEDs you have, but I installed the sicass racing flush mount rear signals and sicass front signals and there was no cutting or splicing on either. It's "plug & play". A plastic quick connect plug joins wires from the signals to the harness both front and rear.

The instructions talked about cutting and splicing and all that shit, but it wasn't necessary. Front signals required buying the sicass relay to replace the stock one to make them flash properly. I'm a mechanical dweeb and an electrical retard and I figured it out.