Should I lift my 4x4 truck a little?

Actually, Toyota didn't "fix" the 4Runner squat until the 2000 model year 3G refresh. The suspension on our 2000 was way different than our 1999. The 2000 truck was level, the rear held up a trailer better and it drove better. Our 99 is the classic taildragger. The Performance Products catalog used to sell 4Runner rear springs with a different height and rate to fix the 3G squat. I don't know about the 2G or if they are even still in business.

I don't see much need to lift a 4Runner unless you really want to go nuts with big tires. The stock tires on our 3G SR5's are about as big as I would ever want to go on that truck for a daily driver. But then my serious offroading is limited to bikes these days. I just want it capable enough to serve a land surveyor's offroading needs.

Well, I stumbled on this thread and was wondering if someone might tell me if it might improve the gas mileage if I lowered my Unimog.

I have done a few custom lift jobs in the past and have a friend that does this as a business. He can't even begin to tell you how many guys bring their brand new trucks (for everyday use) in to him to have them lifted to fit bigger tires and then a year or so later they are back to have him take it off. He does some phenomenal work and does not build anything that is not drivable. "if you can't drive it to get to the trail, then why build it" is what I hear him say alot.

All that being said, look into an Ol Man Emu kit. They are one of the more Toyota specific suspension companies out there. They have stuff for old Land Cruisers, 4 Runners, and the newer model stuff. While you are at it get some bumpers on that thing. ARB bumpers is what I would suggest.

On the MOG... Those are bad ass. I wouldn't mess with it except to keep it going.

Here is a link to my 1980 CJ http://j.b5z.net/zirw/5/i/u/2123557/i/pdir/182/i/2-100_1603.jpg?ab=39 as a reference.

You talkin' to me?

I already have decided to go with Old Man Emu. I have never heard anything bad about them from anyone with a 4Runner. So, shocks front and rear, steering stabilizer, coil springs for the rear, and probably ball joint spacers or whatever they are called so I do not have to crank the torsion bar that much if at all.

This is assuming I can get the 4X4 to work first before dumping any money into the suspension

Have you looked up the tundra TRD front springs with the blistien 5100's? Have them in the 4runner and it's great. I have heard that it's too stiff when put into a tacoma tho.

Well played with OME, quality product - that's what I run on my T4R. I have the HD springs for hauling junk around .
By looking at the gap you can tell I could stuff bigger meats in there but the additional MPG loss was not worth 1/4 inch more clearance.

Funny you'd suggest that company. I have their springs in our woods Samurai. I used to use it for hauling logs out and broke all the stock springs. Seems like the axles wanted to keep going when the logs stopped the body and frame.
The OME springs are still as good as the day I put them in 13 years ago.

Nice looking Jeep.

The you go then. You are familiar with their product and how well it is engineered. Even a couple of nice exaples to draw upon right here.

RXz if that helped you, then yes, I was talking to you or anyone else who was inquiring.

And thanks for the pictures and testimonials as well. This will definitely be the way I go, as soon as I figure out the 4x4 issue. I think it is an actuator in the front differential, electrics and vacuum are good, that is all that is left according to the shop I took it to a few months back.

Rxz,

Unfortunately 4x4s got popular to those that think of them as a status thing instead of the tool they were meant to be. The vacuum/electric engagement stuff today is so those who want to look like a rugged individual on their way to the mall or around here in the North Dallas area, Harley shop, can just flip a switch or push a button to engage the 4x4. I prefer a mechanical lever and locking hubs. My Jeep has unit bearing hubs that are similar to those found in the front axle of a 1 ton Dodge or Ford HD pickup. That means I just shift the Atlas T-case into 4wd hi or lo and go on.

I can agree with this, and I now what you mean about North Dallas! I get into that area enough to know the type. That said, there sure is a lot of scenery in the Target in Frisco

My 4runner has the lever you pull to engage 4wd, and although it has auto locking hubs, my plan is to put in some manual locking Aisen (sp?) hubs at some point. All in due time. I am not planning on making this a monster rock crawler rather a capable daily driver, but I would like to go out with my brothers on some of their excursions to dirtier areas of East Texas.

I solved the problem of the electric bulb hub lockers on my 96 Chevy K1500. I installed a "4x4 Autolock" that replaces the bulb with a mechanical piston driven by a cable into the cab. Not only does it provide positive engagement, but also allows me to use low range in 2WD. That can be pretty handy for backing trailers on dry pavement.

My truck did fairly well at Moab, for a full size. With only a 1.5" lift and 32" tires, I was able to do most of the trails. Even my short cab short bed scraped the rear bumper a few times. Turning radius isn't that of a jeep, but probably better than an extended cab Toyota.

"Leveling" kits; There is actually some good reasons to make the front sit higher than the rear. As I have found racing autocross, lowering the rear stabilizes the vehicle. Off road racers have been doing it for years on trophy trucks and pre-runners, neither of which need to carry much weight. I don't care for the look, and my truck squats enough already with a truckload of bricks.

Personally, after three 4x4's with and four without I hope to never own another one with manual locking hubs. So far through two 4Runners, a Cherokee and my Ranger I have never had the 4x4 fail to engage when I needed it and I have never had one break. I was never a fan of manual locking hubs in SC mud and even less of a fan in MD snow and ice.

This added 1.5 to the front and 2 in the rear. I also installed airbags to carry the weight of the camper. I typically run a wider tire so I can air way down in sand with the camper and trailer. <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TBufbyTQAXcXvEHkwCquBltfelAAvWRSREwUV4MxVUg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Fadhe4cVdxs/UPW5RxwgisI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/IwOAzDP2fXw/s800/P2270049.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Tk1xAEdRgP2wjci7xr8FdVtfelAAvWRSREwUV4MxVUg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wm75fLqD0pg/TVQTlyigZUI/AAAAAAAAAcs/lZz1JEECEZI/s800/IMG00526.jpg" height="400" width="528" /></a>

Did it:

I didn't read the whole thread but if you did this youreself get a good alignment it changes everything. Lifts and leveling kits can be fine except I hate doing Dodges as far a lifts go.

OME? How's it feel?

I did the 5125/5100 using the middle notch up front (leveling only) on my '03 XC. It's a totally different truck now (from 10 year old stock suspension).

And less gas mileage?

As usual I posted before reading the entire thread. I'd be interested to see how much, if any, your mileage suffers. I'd fear around 10%. Looks nice though.