Ok, so I'm one of those folks who places an order and THEN starts reading the rest of the thread and looking at other stuff on the ADVMonster website.... I just placed an order for two M61's and a Wireless dimmer. Then I started looking for info on the dimmer. How come nobody seems to use them? Everybody is showing off their rotary dimmer switch. I would have thought a solid state, fully encased dimmer would be more durable then an exposed mechanical switch. Plus it's cheaper (not that either system is unreasonably priced) Did I make the wrong decision for my dualsport? While I'm at it, what does the wireless dimmer get me? Are the dimmer levels pre-set or infinitely adjustable? There looks like an on-off switch on the fob; is that so? Or do I have to hook into a keyed hot wire (or separate switch)? And how about those lens protectors; do they fit the new lights? And since I'm here, any pics or suggestions for mounts on a new gen KLR? The huge amount of unsupported plastic on the bike covers or obstructs most good hard points. The Twisted Throttle windshield mount is super fugly (although I understand why, see previous sentence). I have Givi crash bars, but I, uh... crash a bit and would like the lights to survive. The fork reflector points also seem very exposed. So far, Two Headlight Ernie's upper fork brackets seem the best option, but I'm open to other suggestions . Especially cheap KLR ones... Thanks for a reasonably priced and apparently high quality product John. I look forward to receiving them.
Landro, Can't help with your mounts, but I'll comment on the dimmer as I have both. I'll qualify my comments as both my installs are on street bikes. The wireless dimmer is a much larger unit that has to be mounted and wired. The key fob is neat, offers infinite levels of light and does have an on/off switch. If you wire the unit to battery power you will have to remember to turn the lights off. The rotary dimmer is just much smaller and easier to mount, and provides the same function regarding light levels. It also won't need a battery at some point in the future. Both units go to full power with the high beam. I have discovered that once I found a dimmed level that I was happy with, I don't adjust the dimmer anymore. The key fob lives in the depths of my tankbag. The rotary dimmer is mounted with sticky velcro on the frame steering neck, just in front of my tank, accessible but out of the way. HTH
Hi John yes the lights are just piercing daylight! The modular system is brilliant! All in one relay for so much light was unheard of till your lights came out and for half the price range. Cant beat that! Thanks John!
Lots of folks use the wireless controller. I know I do, mainly because I prefer not to have any additional switches or hardware on the handlebars. Bob summed this up nicely, let me know if you have any further questions. I recommend switched power for the controller, it has a memory and will come on at the last setting. Nope, working on it Send me an email sandjoh@gmail.com Thanks, let me know what you think of the lights.
Much appreciated, your install looks great. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20694878&postcount=107 I've been huntin this dog, almost there, I really don't want to use a battery but...
Thanks! I've been saying for the last couple of years, I'd almost trade these lights for a helmet, they provide a huge increase in visibility to others on the road.
Dirt Ninja survives another nap. Hope you heal up JD. Left side light took a good hit, still working.
Picture of 2x M64 mounted to a bike, anybody? I'm curious to see the size in relation to the motorcycle.
In the meantime, go get an empty full size kleenex box. It has nearly the same frontal dimensions as the light. Cut the box down to 3.5" length and you'll have two mockup lights (from one kleenex box) to stick on your bike and experiment. To get you started, dimensions are: 4.25" (108mm) x 4.25" (108mm) square frontal area, depth: 3.5" (89mm), 4.75" (121mm) from mount to top of light.
When comparing the new square models with the round ones, what are the main differences? From the specs it looks like they use the same LED and have the same current draw. Is it just a better reflector design?
Could be SuperBowl lights Perhaps you should talk to them, sell them some low current draw lights that work.