KTM 640 Adventure owners, sign in please...

Anyone know if this exhaust would work as a replacement for the OEM supertrapp?

You should check the Part Number in the online parts retailer's system and see if it works with your bike, or call them and ask, but "racing" means loud usually, so don't expect it to be pleasant. I had a racing muffler for too many years, but when a good deal on a Staintune popped up I JUMPED on it.

Now with adequate back-pressure the engine probably breathes properly - remember the airbox/carb and the exhaust balance one another - my bike seems to be running much better and I got almost 48mpg on the last trip.

I'd throw eliminating the dreaded BST-bog in the list of amazing benefits of having a quieter pipe but people need to know that the bog is carb maintenance related, and once you go quiet - no more augmenting to cover up any male insecurities... you never go back.

The muffler pictured is for a right side exhaust, the 640 exits on the left...

You could make it work with some welding fabrication to get it to tie into the slip on part of the supertrapp... This would mean destroying the stock pipe giving you no spare... You would be better off to buy the SXC muffler that is being offered here for a slip on fit:http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932553

So, what is your final airbox configuration with the staintune?

Creeper's v.1 custom side airbox cover, which basically has the same opening as the KTM part. Snorkle in place as recommended by Sommer.

BST40 has the stock pilot, stock needle jet, and a 160 main (I believe). I ride mostly at or about MSL, but haven't found any problems climbing to 10,000ft in the recent past without adjustments.

Pipe is KTM stock; can is Staintune's oval.

As mentioned, it is the wrong side, but if it is marked spark arrestor on the back side, it will be fairly quiet. That style is what has come on the thumpers for the past 6 years, with or without a spark arrestor pending model. I just put one from a W model with an arrester on my 350XCF and it cut the noise down significantly over the stocker without the arrestor.

The bad part for you will be the tab locations, they'd be outboard on the left.

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Baja California

Where in the Baja?

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Has anyone come up with the size of a proper replacement O-ring for the hydraulic slave cylinder? Mine is leaking down and I imagine it's the culprit.

I've had the best success with just using the same O-ring as used behind the countershaft sprocket.

O-RING 25,00X2,00 SILICONE Part Nbr: 0770250021

talked to a mechanic a couple of weeks ago and he suggested that changing the piston, could really improve the vibrations and relax the engine. as anyone done that?

I just did the same fix on my master cylinder with the same one as my countershaft sprocket and both seem to have stopped leaking so far.

Erendira, at coyote cal's hostel. From there we head north for 70 or so miles of fast dirt roads along the bluffs on the water. Next place I want to go is south from there all the way to san quintin.

Hello from an over debt country that used to be a nice place to live in - Slovenia.
A month ago I bought myself an KTM Lc4 adventure 640, 2000. It's completely stock, has 30.000 km ( I guess ...), everything but the tripmaster resetting itself seems to be working fine. The suspension of this bike is remarkable. Smooth over bumbs, yet soft enough not to break my spine over rough terrain. Well that's it for now.
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Nice. Love the blue and orange - looks a lot like my '99.
You probably need a new Tripmaster battery. It's a bit delicate to replace, but after that, no more odometer resets. You can use a small neodymium magnet taped to a PC fan, to put the miles back on the odometer after (if you're so inclined). It will spin the speedometer at a few hundred MPH (several hundred kph) and put the miles on fast. Let it go for a day or so - don't let it go too far or you'll be starting over.

Thanks for the tip; actually it is 99, the first reg. was in 2000, my bad.
I was reading about the battery change but have a bit of fear doing it cause I really don´t want to destroy the unit ... it`s kinda expensive; on the other hand it`s annoying as a rash.

Nice 99, 99-2000 were the last of the 50mm forks.

Here's my 2000 640-E w/ the 50mm forks...I just rebuilt the top end @ 21800 miles, honed the barrel, new piston/rings, valve job and cam bearings. The cam bearings failed and the bike quit running. Runs great since the rebuild!

nice bike you&#729;ve got there the wp50s rock
cam bearings failed :huh is that a common issue?
have to check my mainshaft bearing though ... didn&#729;t know or read about the camshaft bearings.

When I did mine, I used a small battery holder connected with wires to the original location to make changing the battery in the future easier - just remove a bit of hot glue, slide the old battery out and slide a new battery in next time. I had someone with much steadier soldering hands than I have do the tricky part, and prying the old battery out breaking the original solder requires a bit of finesse and patience (as does removing the hot glue to get it apart), otherwise it's pretty simple. I recommend leaving the old battery out for a good period of time before putting the new one in, so no bad data remains in the unit.

Thanks guys. Changed the battery today. A bit to fine of a work for me but I didn`t had too much trouble. IMO is working fine . Installed an on/off switch for the lights while the dash was unscrewed, so I can kickstart my bike with an empty battery
Now, about that magnet and a fan ... what kind of magnet do I need? Where can I get it from?