i've got a MCS procircuit quick action throttle sitting here and i'm wondering if anyone can think of a reason not to run it. it's a single cable rig, the cheap plastic style MX one and i'm hoping it will work well. i can buy one of the 15% quicker tubes from procycle but this is only $30 and i have it already instead of $60+shipped from the states to Australia. Thoughts?
The DR horn is now working again, albeit sounding more roadunnerish than before. The problem seemed when I move the horn with the original Safari tank install, it didn't like its new postilion and in fact, as Jeff at Procycle suggested, had to re tune it! It will suffice until I can get one from the wreckers. Getting the Safari tank back on was the marathon of the day. The alignment with the brackets seems to change every time I take it off and back on again. I seem to be coming up with new techniques to get the bloody thing back on. I may start a "how to put the safari tank back on hints and tips thread page"..............is there one out there already. anyway, thanks for all the feedback (again)
I found mounting and remounting my Safari tank a challenge also. Increasing the hole size and elongating in the bottom mount brace made the job easy. TravelGuy
When I remove my Safari I also remove the front brace and bolt it to the tank while it is off the bike.
Just lever it forward with a ring spanner using the lip of the steel bracket that is right below the rear of the tank. Think about putting a turn of rubber strip around the portion of front stabilizer bracket that will rub on the cylinder head top fin. Also rubber tube can be put over each tang that locates it around the frame down tube. Look at the routing of the fuel lines so they do not rub on anything in the area of the carburetor. Consider splitting a length of rubber hose so it fits over the fuel line that is over the exhaust header as a barrier. Keep an eye on the area around the right hand rear mount hole on the tank itself. Consider new fuel taps if it has one of those $hitty plastic ones they used to fit.
That's funny, but at the same time probably practical. Why is that Jeff, so the tank doesn't distort too much. I did notice this time I've taken the tank off compared to others times is I had quite a bit of fuel in it - around 3/4 full. May this is why it was a struggle?? thanks though
Ding Aling,thats the hard way.The reply from the poster is the easy way.But ya thats the way to do when all else fails:eek1Nothing wrong with asking first.Thats what this fourm is for
great visuals! how is it people say the ktm needle works better than an oem needle shimmed? i have 2 washers under an oem needle and was thinking about a ktm needle. i see a wider ktm needle and that means less gas at the oem needle assuming the same resting position. even the fp needle is wider. the only advantage those 2 have is clip adjust-ability but washers under the factory needle work just fine to raise the needle and thus more gas...plus the factory needle is thinner as lets more gas through. i see it being the best oem shape option. plus the fp & ktm needle are longer and sit deeper in the carb, less gas, than oem. am i missing something here???
I am pretty sure the numbers in the chart represent the area left open around the needle -- not the needle diamenter. So it is a little confusing. The KTM one is actually slightly thinner throughout then the (DR) OEM. Also the KTM needle is slightly longer because it was designed to be used with the white spacer and an additional (KTM) washer under that, so I am assuming it would sit basically at the same height as the DR needle. Edit: Just speculating here, but the additional metal washer/shim on the KTM may have been to protect the white spacer from wear because of the vibrations from the KTM motor. The extra weight of that washer (added to the overall slide weight) may have also contributed to the reason why the KTM slide had two lift holes, to optimize slide lift.
The stock seat bolts are turned to a bit of point (at least mine are) to make it easier to start them when the seat is fightin' yah.
I hear ya,it's just back to the bolt store to get another bolt that went missing.The last one was a heat shield bolt.The last one lasted 3 years Bike Runs very well and strong.Move up to 7000',had to change out the pilot down one size(turning it did nothing till fully closed) and the needle clip lower one slot.Plugs alittle dark.The thing starts up at 40 degree weather on one or two rev with no choke.All in all very happy with it Other than the horn bracket breaking in half again,it's all good.
Yes. One time I had the half full Safari off the bike for a week. The tank spread so much that the front brace holes were 1-1/2" off! I had to wrap a ratchet tiedown around the tank to squeeze it enough the get the brace bolts in. It was a major PITA.
Aside from the clarification by Rumlover about exposed area (thanks Rumlover!), also note that except for the DJ needle, the chart seems to be arranged with the tips even, which isn't all that useful. It would be better to look at mxrob's chart with the diameters, simply because the measurements are all taken in relationship to distance from the third clip (when adjustable). As shimming the needle clip preloads the slide spring beyond standard, it results in lowering the slide rather than raising the needle. I would not shim the needle clip unless the goal is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle angle and rpm. Note that the additional preload from shimming the needle will also make the slide come off the stop at a later point in terms of rpm and throttle position (i.e. more velocity will be required to get it to come up off of the stop). Regards, Derek