Great to hear you sorted the issue. On many dirt oriented bikes, the low beam circuit turns off when the high beam is activated. A diode between the high and low beam positive wires will make for constant power to the lights.
I'm gonna need to add a diode to keep the 44 lit when the hi-beam 60 is on as my low-beam dimmer doesn't have the bypass.
Thanks all for the feedback I have been able to benefit from. Just bought 3 x 60s (one spare) with brackets and dimmers etc. I hope to have them fitted to my GSA for a ride from Montevideo to Iguassu falls on the border with Argentina. I'll let you know how it works out. One question, with this setup would a set of spots be a significant improvement for distance. If so what are the options for spots. cheers dave
I run a set of Model 60's and a set of M62 spots. The spots make a huge difference for long distance light.
Thanks for the feedback Justin, which bike are they on and do you have any photos I could have a look at. I might buy the spots and replace my std GSA aux lights with the 62s. cheers dave
I was originally interested in the 24W dimmable floods, but kept reading through the few thousand posts here and now suspect they are unavailable. I do a lot of street riding so I want something I can run into oncoming traffic on the low beam and then light up the night on high beam. WOuld 44s and a dimmer be the solution?
Dave - I have them mounted on my FJR, crappy picture below. Yeah, the M62 spots are big and ugly, but that's due to the fact you need a bigger reflector to get a true spot beam from the larger cree chips. I previously ran a set of the model 30's and upgraded to these. I like the M62's better - not only do they have longer range, they throw bright light out farther; less glare in close, more bright light thrown downrange.
Thanks Justin, I ordered the 62s yesterday, I might replace the original aux lights on the GSA with them. As you say a bit ugly but no relevance at all for me. I don't like the aerodynamics but also know that the impact will negligible. I'll end up with 2 x 60s plus 2 x 62s mounted, just under 11,000 lumens ( sounds significant ??) so I hope it'll do the trick. Have you been able to set the dip position with the 60s such that they are still useful but don't blind oncoming vehicles. cheers dave
You will light up the whole forest with that light. On the other hand, dirt riding at night is a lot of fun. Are you going to use it for street or dirt? Will it be your only source of light? You will see better if you also use a headlight. Sanjoh has a bicycle light that may work better and will mount to your helmet. http://stores.advmonster.com/-strse-40/M1-Bike-and-Helmet/Detail.bok Keep in mind that too much light causes high contrast between the lit up area and the shadow areas (they appear black) especially when riding in the dirt. You can blind yourself with the light that is reflected back. You can also do a google search for other bicycle lights that have more power. I have tried a few and this is the one I am currently using. It produces more of a flood pattern rather than a spot. http://www.lightmalls.com/solarstor...th-2xcree-xm-l-u2-led-4-modes-4-18650-battery. I tape the helmet light on my helmet with clear plastic tape. I tape the battery on the helmet too. The whole setup weighs less than a pound. I am using a model 60 LED light with a dimmer for my main headlight. I use my helmet light for street riding too. It lights up the road better than the headlight because the mounting point is much higher. I find that it's safer riding because you can light up any area of the roadway independent of where the headlight is pointing. When a car approaches I just point the light towards the ground. Instant dimmer.
Both sets of lights are at a level height, not dipped. I use the remote dimmer for both sets. With the low beams they run at 20% or so, then full power with the highbeam switch. The model 60's face straight forward. The spots I have aimed in just a hair, so they cross a few hundred yards out from the bike. Well, the right one is aimed in just hair, and the left one two hairs :). When the spots cross, it's a little off to the right.
Ended up putting the new lights on my commuter KLR instead of the GS. Some mounting pictures that are self explanatory - I started with some angle iron.
Not for the Model 60 specifically. We do have one available for our M1 helmet light. I'll include one at no charge if you want to try mounting the M60 on it. That is one solution, a set of our Model 60s will work wonders as well. We now offer LED controllers (wireless or wired) that provide a dimmable setting (0-100%) and a full power setting triggered by your OEM high beam switch. The controllers have a built in memory so once you find the dimmed setting, no need to adjust them, just turn on the high beams when you need to see.
Maybe one 60 in the middle pointed downward and high beam bypass dimmed would be good for road use? Was going with the 44 for more of a traffic friendly option, but with the dimmer I could perhaps get better long distance light with the 60 and still not blind the cagers? Are there any spots other than the 30? Does it have the longest throw or does the 60 beat it? Are there throw pattern comparisons I might have missed in this abyss of a thread? Thanks-
With the dimmer, you don't need to point the light down. What type of bike are you putting this on? Here's a recent "conversion" from the awesome 25watt incandescent to a Model 60. The light is on and dimmed in this pic. Yamaha TTR250, stock headlight drilled out, Model 60 inserted. Adjustable low beam, full power high beam. We also have the M61, M62 and M64 spot patterns. M64 by far has the longest throw.
