anyway I thought I would try out something I read on fixing motorcycle plastic panels. My elite 80 Fairing got toasted in a crash but I picked up 99.8 % of the peaces. Very simple 1) Buy a can of PCV pipe glue at you hardware store. 2) Glue the peaces together follow direction on the can . I did 2 Peaces at at time , Till I build up all 5 peaces into one side. I reinforce key point after that with a random peace of flat pcv that I had laying around. Didn't warn it falling apart. That the black peace in the pictures. 3) Then I took off the other none trashed peace of the headlight fairing and glue it together with the other now whole peace. 4) Swearing like a mule because no one make a close match to R191 - American Red red in canada . Rather not pay 20 bucks a can for custom paint. 5) Put it back on and worry about looks another day. 6) Go for along ride and see if it falls off. Nope it hasn't . The PCV glue fills in most of the cracks. Looks white in the photos and seem to be very strong bond. 7) main reason for wasting my time . Red fairing 450 bucks oem. None on fleabay or local . \
Used the pipe glue several times with excellent results. Had one panel that I brought to a body shop that does bike work and they ground/filled the crack - you couldn't tell it was repaired after painting. I'm working on the body of an Aprilia Sr50 right now. Lots of parts on those! The panels are thicker/heavier than any other scooter I have worked on. The painted panels are ABS, not PVC. Both types of glue works on the plastic. Anyone know what type of filler I can use on the scratches/cracks that will stand the minor flexing that these panels take?
Good tip on the pvc glue! I got a tip here on ADV about the JB plastic weld, and it worked out pretty well also.
Yea, good tip on the PVC glue. To reinforce the repair I scuff up the back side a bit and use a good helping of JB weld. Then I cut a piece of metal window screen and press it into the JB weld. Never had a problem with crack separating again.
$450 for one part? I can replace all the plastic on my Vino 125 for under $300. I was actually considering doing that at one time, just to change the color.
Now you may be able to for $300, but in 15 or 20 years you'll pay whatever they ask or go without, fix, or find used. Prices for OEM parts goes up, as bikes get older.
Yep if it's old you pay for it. even with a bike thats out of production for less then 6 years certain parts or in this case colors can cost $$$$. I think none red is 100 bucks. Still left with find a rattle can alt to honda America red paint. Rather pay 5 bucks then 20 bucks a can.
ok, this is what I do for a living.... JB weld works well for the plastic but I would use an adhesion promoter, 3m and Worth make 2 part plastic repair products that we use for bumper repair, strong flexible, sets up quickly and adheres well...I usually grind the pastic back about 1-2 inches from repair area, less for smaller job, I also V-out the crack so you can get a nice fillet in repair area..clean area with soap/water and then a solvent, spray on a light coat of adhesion promoter, let flash and then apply JB or what ever you are going to use. The PVC glue works on certain scooter plastics but not all, it did not soften my Aprilia plastic..but it did on a Chinese scooter these steps must be followed for the paint to adhere to bare plastic items needed http://3mcollision.com/products/abra...ads-64935.html http://www.eastwood.com/flexible-pri...FRRk7AodNRMADw http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=56 http://www.amazon.com/Norton-48060-S.../dp/B001ENZGA6 to refinish a bare plastic part, first clean it well with soap and water , dry, now clean with a solvent type degreaser, dry, now i would scuff part with a fine grit scuff pad, if you have any scratches you want to fix, now is the time to do that light scratches can be repaired with a flexible primer designed for plastic bumpers, wet sand sand scratches with 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper, dry, apply light coat of the bulldog to area slighly larger than you need to primer, let flash off, now apply light coat of flexible primer, let flash, repeat with primer 3 or so times...now step away from project..get a drink, read a magazine article..something for about 1/2hr or so..longer if you hammered the primer on LOL..now once primer is dry thoroughly wet sand scratch area with 400 or 600 once again almost down to plastic, if you can still see scratch, reprimer and step away...if scratch is gone, you are done and part is ready to wipe clean again with soap and water and then solvent. after solvent you are ready for painting process. hang part so you can easily spray the whole thing without having to move it around. Now wipe down again with solvent, dry, now take the bulldog adhesion promoter and put a light coat over the whole part, let flash off...now you can put on base coat and then clear coat. I assume you are going to use a rattle can, SEM makes good paints I would put a 2 coats of color or until covered, let flash off and then spray a compatible (make sure) clear about 2 -3 coats clear on that, let dry till next day. Any dirt or runs can be wet sanded out with 2000 grit wet/dry paper and buffed/rubbed out by hand(1500 will also work but takes more time to buff out) Previously painted parts are much easier, no scratches and just faded only need to be cleaned as above ,scuffed with scuff pad or sanded with 400 to 600 grit paper thoroughly ( no shiny places), hung to spray, cleaned again and then sprayed with base color and cleared, fix dirt as above..again SEM make some good products hope this helped Mike
