The front measures in at 5mm thick exactly and rear 4.5mm. For $166 shipped, I am very pleased. My current rotors measured: Front-3.175mm Rear-4.039mm Bike has~40hrs. Hopefully this huge jump will not be a deal breaker. We will see. Now I just need to order the wheels and tires! And figure out where to get a speedo magnet.
Nice copies of the galfer rotors. http://www.millionjobsproject.us/ China is a booming economy. Thanks to us.
My 5% is going to be the $1600 I drop on the RAD wheels. http://www.radmfg.com/default.asp Just finished checking out Galfer's site and watched their video. http://www.galferusa.com/motorcycle-brake-rotors/ Definitely would not have purchased them if I had know they pretty much stole their patented design. Not cool.
Not trying to complain here but damn, this bike is so fast and so light it's actually a little hard for me to ride in the tight woods trails of northern Michigan... Hopping a log in first gear usually sends me 6 feet up into the branches of the trees...LOL
You would be in about the 1% who subscribes to this idea. If you think about a non o-ring chain getting submerged in mud/water or sand working it's way into it and then having no easy way out,the chain self destructs easily. I can remember running the non o-ring chains back in olden days,ride,adjust,ride,adjust,then adjust some more then throw it and the sprockets away. Even many MX'ers run O-ring chains now,dyno shows no power loss and a more reliable drivetrain is the result.
Yup! Last year I bought a WR450 with a 1/2 used up oring chain on it. At the same time, my buddy bought a WR426 and put a brand new high end non-oring chain on it. By the time he blew up his 426 (maybe 60 hours of riding), my oring chain was probably at 30% left, and his new non-oring chain was toast. Nearly every hour on the bikes was put on side by side. I see no reason for the existence of non-oring chains at this point.
An 0-ring chain can seem stiff when its been sitting,once its warmed up from riding they flex just fine. Ive gone many rides with a good o-ring chain with no adjustments needed,hence the sprockets last longer.
That's what I think too. I use the 2009 PDF manual for work on my 2011 530 XC-W, and I've yet to find anything that isn't covered, or looks different.
But MX is short ride and these bikes are for longer range, sometimes multi-day rides. MX bikes aren't running through creeks and rivers. O-ring chain with a steel rear sprocket like Stealth, Ironman or even economy steel sprockets will last the longest especially if you change out the front before it wears considerably.
Sorry to have been lingereing so long on finishing this up. So in this picture you can see the wiring coming from the back of the housing. I used the original lo-beam wire grommet to run the hi-beam gate wiring through after removing the bulb tangs. This picture shows the "behind the headlight" wiring that was done. The lower left in the picture is the Ballst that came with the lighting kit. It was mounted to the lower triple clamp using the upper part of the hole already machined and threaded there. All of the wiring from the battery followed the routing of the factory harness to the front of the bike. The ornage relay in the upper right was bolted through the old turn signal bracket. The brown and white wires were connected to the switch block in the Morimoto harness to turn on the light itself. The Blue and brown were connected to the red and black from the hi-beam gate on the projector. Brown is the ground. I had to make some offset brackets to stand the head light shroud about 1.5 inches forward of the factory location due to the depth of the bulb and its plug. Here it is on. I also did the Baja Designs statr and regulator rectifier upgrade. Lo-beam Hi beam. Those cars are about 80-100 yards away. I have around $250 in parts in the whole mod including the HID Kit from the Retrofit Source and the BD reg/rectifier and Stator mod kit. I am pretty happy with it. Hope you guys like it here as well.
I am also riding a 530 on similar terrain. I saw your previous post regarding new sprockets, and thought that maybe your gearing is high. I ride 13/50...seems to be the favoured gearing in the east...might give you more pop and less launch when you need to wheelie over a log...maybe 52 even. Steel rear sprockets all wear a long time compared to aluminum but the Ironman and Stealth are lighter than the regular priced steel sprockets.
I currently have 14, 50 on the bike and this seems to be a real good all around ratio. But I may get a 13 this spring and try it out. As the tight single track I like to ride, I'm lugging second gear..
