Go Sportsters

I used a Mustang Vintage solo with driver backrest and loved it! Then I added the vintage wide for the rear and the bride was happy too. If you can swing the backrest, it's worth it. Wait and watch for a used one, like I did.

It's good, you'll like it.

I love the backrest on my Road King. The sportster puts me far enough back that a luggage bag on the back seat is about right. I think my back is about 12" from the backrest if I remember right. My drybag is 16" round and crushes right into shape when I lean on it. I've ridden with it 'dummy packed' before just for the backrest.

Yeah, my luggage is my backrest, too. Good enough!

Well, all good Go Sportsters should be able to stop, right? The stock 48, with its two piston caliper and single sided disc, while it worked ok, did leave a little to be desired. After doing a bit of looking around I decided to try an upgrade that I found on xlforum...

Upgrading the stock two pot to this:



A left side four piston Nissin caliper from an XR1200...

Comes with pads already installed:




AND bolts straight up to the 48 with no other modifications required:



Cost a little over $150 shipped to my door from cyclepartsforless. The caliper, a couple of new sealing washers, some brake fluid and a little time swapping the parts and bleeding the brake system, and VOILA! Much improved brakes!!

I think it looks a little better too...




Not really sure that they do much for actual "Go", but they sure sound better than the stock exhaust... The first thing I did was add this set of Cycle Shack slash cut slip-ons. Then as mentioned earlier in this thread I just didn't care for the forward controls, so I purchased a set of mids for $65 shipped, from a member over on xlforum. Much more natural feeling for me, and I no longer feel like i'm struggling to stay in the seat under hard acceleration or high speeds. Another side benefit was that the change in controls altered my hip postion just enough so that I actually don't find the stock seat uncomfortable any longer.

Just recently swapped out the pegs for the ones seen in the pic above. They ride a little higher, and inward than the originals mounted on the mids, pictured below.



Still up, when funds allow, is a set of ~13.5" Ohlins, longer fork damper rods from the Roadster, Intiminators and fork springs.

Then, I have an NRHS HurricaneFlow filter set-up for it too... Got a good deal on it used from a member here... Just waitin' till I can do something about the fueling before I install it.

Once those things are done I think I'll pretty much be happy with the major "Go" parts.

Also just picked up this never before installed Lick's solo bag for $130 from another member over on xlforum.



Planning a brown leather seat to match at some point down the road, once I figure out exactly what I want and have the cash. SInce discovering that the mid controls makes the stocker fairly comfortable I may just have my stock seat recovered in leather by Roberti. But that's coming after the other stuff anyway...

Does that brake upgrade work on the Nightster, too? I assume it does. I really don't like my dinky front brake. I'm curious to know how it performs! Also, if the pads that come with the caliper are good, or if there are better options.

My next upgrade is definitely going to be rear shocks, though. I don't think I can afford $600+ Ohlins, so I plan on going with $200 Progressive 412 in 12.5" or 13"

It can and has been done on a Nightster but it isn't quite as simple as with the 48. The Wide Glide front end of the 48 gives plenty of clearance, but with the narrower front end on the Nightster it is a very tight fit between the cast spokes and the back of the caliper. It will fit, but it will possibly rub on the wheel, which ain't good! Supposedly you can file a small amount of material from some portion of the rear of the caliper to gain the required clearance, but this is just what I've read over on XLForum. You might want to search around over there yourself to get the lowdown. If you try it you would want to be very careful that you allowed for heat expansion and movement so as not to cause an issue.

As far as performance, it's hard to quantify really. All I can say is that it is a night and day difference in braking power. It doesn't transform it into a modern day, radial caliper equipped sportbike, but whereas before it took a healthy four finger squeeze to get authoritative stops, now it's a one or two finger job and much closer to what I'm used to with my other bikes. I'm sure there are other pad options since this caliper is basically the same one used on some models of Honda CBR's, and therefore could use the same upgraded pads available for them, but I'm pretty happy with it just the way it is. I'll use these pads until they're toast anyway. Then I might look into other options. Then again, I may just go back with stock pads. They're fine.

As far as shocks go... I've done a lot of research on this subject on various H-D forums and while anything is better than the stock H-D units, the general consensus is that you get what you pay for. From what I've read, a lot of people are less than happy with the cheaper Progressives and end up upgrading yet again later on. While I can't afford the Ohlins either, most everyone is very happy with them, so I've decided to wait until I can rather than waste money buying twice. It's really hard to go wrong with Ohlins, IMO.

I've heard good things about just buying the eBay road king shocks, that's probably my next move. They're out there for around $50 sometimes.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.

I went over to xlforum and found this thread about the caliper/spoke clearance problem
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=580417

Well, nuts. It might give me a good excuse to finally buy a bench grinder, but I would not be comfortable removing too much material from the caliper. Perhaps one of the aftermarket calipers would be a better bet, or maybe just better pads would be a worthwhile upgrade.

As far as the suspension, I'd love to put the best possible parts into it and make this thing really handle, but the main issue at the moment making the ride tolerable. Right now, my priority order is: rear shocks, seat, front brakes, front forks, tires (perhaps some radials?)

Putting a mustang seat on mine made the shocks feel better. Something to think about if your short on cash, I'd do seat then shocks if you don't ride a passenger much. I put my shock plans on hold, the seat is enough for now.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.

Not sure what aftermarket calipers are available, but the Lyndall pads are highly recommending as replacement pads for the stock caliper. I just preferred going to a four piston caliper rather than just upgrading the pads in the stock sliding two piston caliper. The brake caliper, including pads, was just over $150 to my door. That's fairly economical as far as brake upgrades go, and was well worth the money to me.

I hear ya on the ride quality as well, and my priority list is very similar to yours, although due to budget constraints I've had to readjust the order just a bit because I plan to do the front and rear suspensions at the same time and that's a fairly large ticket upgrade all at once. But, the ride quality of the Ohlins is pretty hard to beat, so I'm holding off till I can do it right the first time.

Since switching to the mid controls I'm actually pretty happy with my stock seat, so it's more of a cosmetic thing that makes me want to change it now. I'm leaning toward just getting the foam modified and recovered in brown leather to match my Lick's solo bag (or close anyway) by http://www.roberticustoms.com/. I've seen a couple of examples of his work and it seemed reasonably priced.

I also just ordered a set of Vieds, used, from a member of HDForums tonight. I'm planning to give them a try with my intake and exhaust mods until I can afford a tuner. We'll see how it runs after getting that all installed. Only paid $60 shipped so it's not a huge loss if I decide to pass them on along.

I messed around with mine, and for my ass, it was the other way around. I really like the feel of the stock seat once I put RK air shocks on. My pillion still didn't like the stock seat. If I was doing it again it would go: First 100$ - Road King Shocks, Next $300 - Mustang solo & Pillion, because they look so good as a solo bike.

That bikes now on ebay. Or someone else also went with the Kiwi theme.

Well spotted. I've got my eyes on a Guzzi...

What shock length is one that bike? It looks really tall in the rear.

Yeah, looks like 16" or something nuts.

Well, there reason I ask is that, while I'd like to increase my cornering clearance, I've read that anything much over around 13.5" causes interference between the bottom run of the belt and the rear master cylinder, or something in that area. I want to make sure I get as much length as feasible when I spend the cash. Or at least be able to make an informed decision when making my selection.

I suppose you can get lowering brackets if you have to. I was trying to decided between 12.5 and 13, as I don't want to deal with belt rubbing, or getting a new kickstand. Still might have to adjust the belt tension, and aim the headlights.

The shock length is 15" center top bolt to center lower bolt measured on the bike. The setup works very well for me.

My kick stand is stock - no issues - and the belt just touches the master cylinder bracket with no load on the bike (the belt is very slack too). As soon as you sit on the bike the belt tensions and everything is fine.

The shocks were fitted by the original dealer and the bike's now done 6500 miles. Still the first belt, of course, with no signs of damage or deterioration.

Yeah, with longer rear shocks you definitely need to check belt tension. With the lowered Harleys, like my 48 and unlike most bikes, due to the swingarm angle the belt tension is actually at its tightest with the suspension at full extension and loosens during suspension compression. On most bikes, and like the one pictured above (and my Buell below), the swingarm is on a downward angle. As it moves up during suspension compression, the axle actually moves father from the output shaft/front sprocket/pulley (tightening the chain/belt) as it reaches a straight line connecting the axle, swingarm pivot and output shaft, then loosening again as it moves up beyond that point. The quickest way to destroy the output shaft bearings is to run the belt too tight.

In fact, it's generally known in the Buell world that the factory belt tension spec is too tight. Many people have had issues after letting the dealer set it to their spec and the recommended tension is to run it quite a bit more loose.

Here's a pic of my S1 with a line drawn in to illustrate the point of max belt tension as the suspension moves through its arc of motion:



And a gratuitous shot of the bike:




But, from what I understand, there isn't an issue with belt interference until you get over 13.5" on the Sportsters. Still like to get that number confirmed as the upper limit though. I fully intend to get the longer jiffy stand from the Roadster once I lengthen the forks and shocks so it will have the proper lean angle when parked up on the stand, though.

I'm not sure what would happen with a longer shock and lowering blocks though. It could allow for a longer stroke shock and work out fine... Then again, the leverage ratios would be different so it could screw up the spring and damping rates. I'd prefer to stick with the stock mounting points and just get the correct shock sprung and valved for my weight and riding style.