Show us your TransAlp modifications!

Before I get into my build, I wanted to update everyone on the resource guide that I said I was putting together from this thread. The paper is together and is now being reviewed by several folks from the forum whose input we all appreciate. As it stands now it is over 400 pages (text and pictures). My plan is to post it up as a PDF file for folks to download. Additionally, I view the paper as a "GROUP WORK IN PROGRESS" and anyone who would like to add write ups to the paper, to please send me their input (with pictures) and it will be added.

One of the biggest issues I found in putting this together is when ADVRider updated how pictures are handled, we lost a major amount of data when the earlier pictures that were hosted on the site server were deleted. Additionally, where noted I have indicated who posted the information that is quoted in the paper. If you find that you want to change, update or correct anything that is listed, please send me your updates and we will get it posted.

I realize that until you see the paper there is not much to add... My plan is as soon as I have the reviewers comments I will get it up for everyone!


Now, onto my build...

I picked 89 Honda Transalp earlier this year from Seattle Used Bikes as my friend owns this shop and he new I had been looking for one of these for years. There are a lot of dual sport rides that I have had on the back burner for years and with the rebuild of this bike I am hoping to achieve many of them.



Well, the bike when I put it in the studio it was running great, but with any bike that is 24 years old there is only so much trust you can put in seemingly good looking parts. After two months of ordering parts and pieces both from US suppliers and European vendors, I can finally begin the tear down on the bike. A major thanks for parts and pieces that are almost impossible to find go to my friends MAS336 and LADDER106. Mark and Ray are very much a part of this build as are many of you. Your input over the last 9 years has built a wonderful resource for anyone wanting to build one of these bikes...





To date I have been able to do the following: Suspension upgraded: front forks are from an XR650 (rebuilt) and the rear shock is an XR250 with the spring upgraded to Spring rate: 11.5kg / mm. This will place the bike seat at just under 41" which is exactly what I wanted. Front and rear wheels are completely rebuilt, rear brake converted from push to pull (thanks Locorider!) that was a great idea. If you are sticking with drum brakes, this is one of the simplest mods to protect your rear linkage. The drum brake cam works exactly the same in either the push or pull configuration so all you have to do is move the lever.

Something else I was able to do tonight was the blending of a XR450 rear fender. The previous owner for some reason sawed off the end of the fender leaving the bike with little rear wheel protection. Since I decided to go with a high mount fender, I was able to order all the plastics for an XR450 from EBay for $20.00 and when I started looking at the fender I found that cutting at the bolt hole location gives you a fender that can be slipped onto the existing TA fender and be attached (I will post pics on that as well). With everything, as I progress I will add more images.

Other areas that I will be replacing or upgrading are:
Carbs rebuilt (new diaphragms in hand as well as the slow 40 jet upgrade)
Clutch rebuild
Air box upgraded (Rays mod)
Engine mounts upgraded (Rays mod)
Top end rebuilt
Rays optical fuel gauge
All electrical connection cleaned and upgraded
Swing arm stripped, coated and bearings replaced
Brakes upgraded
New handle bar
Highway Dirt Bike guards (you need to see these things: http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=billet_hg_7%2F8
Handle bar switches replaced
PIAA lights upgraded
XR450 high mount front fender
XR450 rear fender

It will probably take till the end of January to finish the build...funny how all the parts in bags make the build seem so far from the finish...but that's have the fun!

When I first started my build I wanted to do a TA to AT conversion, but than after some wonderful conversations with folks here I have found that what I really wanted was a blend.

As Robin said, of all the bikes I have built this one seems to multiply the number of parts as they come off.





In closing I want to wish every single person here a MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I consider myself lucky to have found this group and look forward to where the new year is going to take all of us!

Dr. E . WOW! You make what i'm trying to do childsplay. Can't wait for your pdf file. My resurrected Ta is still coming along well.Yours looks better than mine before you started the build.I will ad pics...I promise, tried tonight but photobucket said it didn't know me.Mine was crashed and left for dead for 10 + years. So far...xrl complete front end, new tires, boiled carb twice, rebuilt/repaired back side of platics, alot of scrubbing/touchup, rear shock with modified spacer, and the list goes on.... I debated selling my vstrom to pay for a lot of well needed parts...but i love the wee too, modern reliable. I'll just have to be patient. Anyway, I had a question for you gurus. I did the 40 jet change, cause she took forever to warm up. Now my choke doesn't work right. I know it functions, just doesn't idle. I drilled out the pilots and have played with 1 turn out to 2.5 turns with everything in between. Still no easy start. Once warm up shes fine, just needs throttle to get her going a bit. I 've searched and searched.Is it because i didn't shim my needles? What does raising the needle do to the mixture? Thanks for any advice. The Myans were wrong, go figure.

If it set up for ten years it could have something really stopped up. But it sounds like you had it running. Check the idle air jets and be sure the choke plungers are closing all the way. Also check the sync on the carbs, and vacuum leaks. Mine idles best with the mixture/volume screws out ~ 4 turns out. Raising the needles shouldn't effect the idle much/any...makes coming on the mid range circuit a little richer. My carbs are 100% stock...runs perfect.

There's a lot going on in carbs so there are a lot of questions for you.

Can you be more specific here? What do you mean by "doesn't work right"? Do the choke slides move in and out of the carbs? Are the soft sealing ends of the choke plungers in good shape? Do the plungers move in and out of the carbs without binding? Are the plastic covers that thread into the carbs in good shape?

Does the bike start easier with the choke on? Once warmed up does activating the choke make the bike run so rich it slows the idle speed and eventually dies?....it should.

I'm assuming you mean you drilled out the pilot mixture adjusting screw plugs and now have access to the screws. If you just did this does it mean that you "boiled" the carbs with those screws in place?

What does "boiled the carbs" actually mean?

OK..if you soaked the carbs or something with the pilot mixture adjusting screws in place, you likely did something nasty to the tiny O-rings that live at the end of those screws. Those screws, the small spring, small washer and tiny O-ring should be removed before soaking/boiling the carbs in anything.

These mixture screws fine tune the idle mixture of the carbs so if they are dirty, clogged or not sealing due to O-ring damage you will not be able to adjust idle mixture.

Correct idle mixture should be achieved with the screws set between 1/2 and 3 turns out. When turning the screws in do not bottom them hard into the carb body...they are small sensitive tapers.

When removing these screws from the carb for cleaning and inspection be careful. The screw will come out first, then a small spring, then a tiny washer and then a tiny O-ring. You may have to tap the carb on the bench to dislodge the washer and O-ring. The O-ring should not be flattened torn, stretched or partially dissolved by a carb-cleaning solution.

Raising the needles makes the mixture richer between 1/3 and 3/4 throttle...or there abouts. You should not have to change this in the TA unless you've done something radical to the airbox or exhaust.

Photos would be a huge help

2bold....

If your screws are 4 turns out, you should really consider larger pilot jets. 4 turns puts you in danger of having the screws fall right out of the carbs on a bumpy off-road ride. There's not much spring tension to help keep the screws in place with them backed out so far.

I'd try 40s first, then maybe 45s

Dr.E

Best use of a pool table I've seen.

Your right, and worse than that I've got big long screw extensions so I can reach in there behind the AT tank and adjust them without taking the tank off. But I did stretch the springs a little. Do it every time. I live at almost sea level but do a lot of my riding in NM and CO mountains and hope to be able to adjust the idle when I get there. If it doesn't work I quess I'll have to change it.

It's definitely improved my game!

2bold,

Is that the original tubing on the intake port to fuel valve?

If so, are you sure it's not cracked or harder than a galvanized pipe? Maybe that's why you idle mix is so rich.

Yeah, that's the one that was on it when I got it for the vacuum pump. Got all new fuel lines and a bunch of other stuff. It's been apart in the garage for several months now while I rework some of the AT installation, wiring, add relays/fuse pannel, lights, horn, cruise control, heated grips, exhaust, rear fender treatment, rear bag racks/crash bars, etc. And change out the RD07 clocks out, that was on it, for RD04 clocks. I can't seem to find a place to stop.

I've been searching for answer to this but cannot find (likely due to poor forum searching skills). I'm getting a SS brake line for my 87. Can someone advise on ideal length? I've seen 44" mentioned but cannot confirm if this is correct.

Cheers and happy holidays

Rick

Do these bags make my ass look fat?

I ordered up a set of smaller panniers for my Transalp but had these larger ones from another bike. I decided to fit the big ones up today and am thinking I may need a Wide Load sign on the back now.

Oh well, they will hold lots of stuff and don't have to be on the bike all the time. :huh





Marc

Lomax,

I think you should call you bike "Michelle". Do not try to split lanes carrying those.

2Bold,

Like your idle speed adjuster. Think I'll copy it. It will save me from burning my knuckles all the time.

Yep, that was the plan. A friend gave me a piece of that flex cable, he uses it to make drive shafts for RC race boats. I silver soldered a piece of brass tubing on a cut off screw on the carb end and made a knob for the other end. Cut a little slot in the cyl fins right under the throttle wheel as a guide and for a little extra clearance. Also relocated the pump for more clearance and cooling. If you have trouble finding that flex cable, let me know and I'll find out where he got it. Really thinking about doin your lowered pegs mod too.

you bike must be like...130cm wide, I guess.

Anyway, is that a Suzuki 40F0 (gsxr) exhaust you have there? I'm very interested to hear how it sounds on a Transalp...

The guy I got it from said it was a Hayabusa muffler. I does sound very good and is not loud at all. A nice deep throaty sound. It is very light. It looks like a bit of welding and shaping were done to get it to fit properly. The bike runs great with it on there, It actually impresses me for a 600cc bike.

Marc

Sorry to take so long on these pics, it's a long story.

this is her now. I named her Roxie, cause when i got her running she rocked back and forth on my make shift stand. I swear it was like she was coming back from the dead...and couldn't wait to run.