the DR650 thread

HUH? :huh
When'd that happen??

I checked the PC site today to place a little order (yeah, right!) and see that they are now selling Cogent shocks, rebuild kits, and the Cogent "Bling Ring" that is so slick.
They do say "coming soon" so everything may not be available yet.

Excellent!

Two thumbs up for Rick at Cogent and for Jeff at Procycle.

There are a few other new items on the DR page at PC too if, like me, you haven't looked recently.

Or, if you are trying to budget your money like me, DON'T LOOK!

Yeah, noticed that the other day. Interesting. I wonder why Jeff didn't build his own shock, instead of re-selling Cogent's.

There are so many options now it's hard to know what's best. Most expensive, Cogent?

This is not a bad idea, IMO. You achieve two things:
1. sealing the wheel may not make it air tight ... but will most definitely slow air loss if you get a puncture. With tubes you can have INSTANT AIR LOSS. Going 70 mph, mid corner and having instant air loss on your front tire is not a good thing. The sealing could mitigate air loss ... enough to give you warning and get off the road.

2. A minor puncture could be just a "slow leak" instead of a flat, and could give you time to pick your repair spot ... or just air it up once in a while and continue.

Just ordered two sets of Warp 9 levers for our DRs. Since my wife and I are selling our BMW F650 and 800GS, it just makes sense to farkle the bikes we want to keep.

Long live simple bikes!

Yeah, Rick and I think this will be a good fit.
The plan is for ProCycle to build up enough inventory of 'Cogent Built' shocks to be able to sell them on an exchange basis rather than the old way of sending a shock to Cogent and having the bike down for a couple weeks. It also should be easier for Rick as he will be running ProCycle shocks in batches without having to coordinate the anodizing with several separate shock customers.

The DR market isn't that big. It made more sense to me to work with Cogent rather than competing against them.

So, what's the best off road shock for the DR, a rider @ 200 lbs that rides moderately aggressive off road?

Its always good to think and come up with new ideas.

But,if the tube gets a hole and leaks, the offending item most likely came through the tire. So there's a hole in said tire for air to escape.

Just my 2 cents

So you cant have INSTANT AIR LOSS with tubeless?

Chain was too tight. Those rollers dont pull them selves out of the frame.

Possible, but it wasn't too tight on my watch. I never run chains too tight.

Actually this came out when I finally got around to taking the roller off. I turned the bolt, and it's clear that the attachment was still strong enough so that I had to use as much pressure on the wrench as it would normally take to loosen the bolt, but that pulled the roller and mount off. So it could have happened at any time in the past.

The bike is a '96 which I bought a few years ago.

You somehow managed to make up a whole novel of things from my post. You've got skillz ! Stay frosty my friend.

I agree,just a 1 tooth smaller countershaft sprocket gives a nice boost in getting going.
There are SO many bikes made for going fast that run great right out of the box,hopping up a DR is an interesting way to spend your time but hardly cost effective.

Then the flexy heavy frame and el cheapo forks and shock will have to be fixed if you do get more power out of the the thing,then it gets really pricey.
Ive flailed my DR on trails my KTM's barely notice,the poor DR is dragging bottom and tank slapping trying to break in half.
Its an econo bike pure and simple and I like it that way,for long distance dirt road traveling its a great bike and I almost never have to work on it.
Ive modded lots of stuff on my DR,just not the engine.

A well set up Ohlins.

Works great for me, haven't tried better, but not tried the popular Cogent or Ricor, or Racetech upgrades either. Ohlins just work, when setup.

Anyone looking for a complete engine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-DR650-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51aae836e2&vxp=mtr

Excellent price I think.

If shipping to Alaska wasn't so expensive I would already have bought it!

But, now I will give you a chance

I did the 17inch wheels several years back, and my wife (5'7") rode it through the Snowy Mountains when we holidayed there. I made suspension linkages (the aluminium 'dogbones' which connect the shock pivot to the swingarm) which are a half inch longer than stock. This lowers the rear wheel about inch and three quarters, and she has no trouble getting her feet down either side. There's a company over there that makes threaded, adjustable linkages. It's a two bolt solution, and you can always take it off if you don't like it. Cheers.

Theres a trick you can do,take the shock off and set the chain a little snug,then lower the back end of the bike down and watch where the chain goes up by the upper roller.
It will try to pull that roller out of the frame.
If the chain isnt tight it wont try to pull that roller out of the frame.

The notches in the snail cam chain adjusters are a big adjustment jump between notches so guys try to err on the side of tightness thinking its better then looseness.

So yeah somebody most likely ran it too tight before you got it.

Ohlin's are nice if you dont mind spending a chunk of change,the Race-Tech gold valve and spring on my DR shock work fine.. after two revalves by the local suspension wizard,stock Race-Tech valving felt like a Supercross shock settup.

Guys I think most of you are forgetting something about tearing out the upper chain roller. Whether the chain is adjusted too tight or not when you are under strong acceleration and the rear shock is under heavy compression the chain is going to push against the upper roller with a lot of force.

TravelGuy