Anyone looking for XL600 parts. I have a bunch of XL600 stuff that I am tired of looking at and would like to see it leave. Various engine bits, rear wheel complete, wiring harness complete, almost a full set of 83 plastic. No cam, front wheel, seat or exhaust. A couple sets of later XR600 forks. PM me if your looking for something.
Looking for a front brake caliper. Also, if anyone knows what years the front brake caliper was used.
I don't know. I think at this point I need to fix it so I'm pulling the engine this week and starting the tear down i know im wishy washy about it but I just like the bike so much I have to fix it and I'll never hear the end of it from my wife if I dont. so where is the best place to get parts(gaskets and such) and I'm going to need to seriously clean out the oil system any suggestions
Here are the two cams, the one on the left (with the duct tape) is the Hot Cam, the other is the original XL600 cam. They both have a similar profile just reversed. The sprocket mounted on the Hot Cam the way it seems to be on the 1988+ cams. Mounted this way the chain alignment is moved to far towards the center of the engine. With the sprocket turned around the alignment is spot on. The sprocket on the XL600R Cam for comparison. I went with the Hot Cam because it was specifically mentioned in one of the two references found when researching this mod. Not having a 1988+ cam to compare to the original from the XL600 made it a bit safer bet from the stand point of keeping the original timing chain. In this post from HeadTrauma the 1988+ cam looks similar to the profile of the Hot Cam. The same 1988+ sprocket bolts to the camshaft of both the Stock and the Hot Cam. The XL600 camshaft bolts to the Hot Cam. Without actually having a stock cam to compare it's impossible to say with absolute certainty, but at this point I am planning on pulling the engine out of my 83 XL600 and going with a stock 1988+ cam. The reversed nature of the the Hot Cam and sprocket offset each other so that the timing marks are visible in their normal position.
i finally got back to work on my 83 XL... it had a leaky rocker cover gasket and it was cutting out at high rpms did a compression test 175 psi! pulled the beast of a motor cam chain looks stretched, bearings were replaced at one point looks like it was getting lube can you tell if the tensioners maxed out?
old rocker box, one of thems badly worn. i have a 85 rocker box that looks like it will work the only difference i can see is that the kickstart decomp thing works differently, doesnt matter for me though i took off the kickstart decomp. anyone know what would cause this damageÉ 83 and 85
You're going to want to replace your camshaft as well. Look at the lobes where the damaged rockers were riding. There's probably some scoring going on.
^^^ good thing i have a 85 cam thats still in spec, ill have to take a good look at the old one when i pull it
pulled the head and jug today looks like some corrosion in the cylinder , it still has good cross hatching, should be fine with just a re-hone?? plan on relapping the valves, will i be fine with just new stem seals? or will i need guides too?
My rule of thumb is just spend money where it is needed. A hone, stem seals and maybe a valve job if there is a good shop near by. The guides only need to be replaced if there is play between the valve and the guide.
The XL has begun a slow fuel weep at the petcock valve. Is this something that can be typically remedied by installing some new seals or is it the type of valve that you just replace entirely?
Here is what I would do... Order a set of OEM HONDA gaskets, dont buy anything other than Honda gaskets. Take the head apart, keep the hardware together for each cylinder, sandblast the head and the outside of the cylinder, the cylinder looks good, in the manual are the specs for the roundness and the O.D. limit, check those. Obviousley get new rings, and also get a new CAM chain, don't cheap out and re-use it. I would bet for about ~$300 you will be ready to go. Just my $0.02, let me know if you need any help. O yes...PM me or MCMA111 with any questions, he is the RVFC expert.
Randy, Before you do anything take the piston and cylinder to a good machinist and have both measured. If the parts pass have the cylinder lightly honed. With the head upside down fill the combustion chamber with solvent and let it sit. Look in the intake and exhaust ports to look for leakage. When you see the leakage (it WILL leak) have a valve job done on the head. Order a set of rings, valve guide seals and the correct OE top end gaskets. Put it all back together and it will run better than it has in years.
That cylinder doesn't look any good to me at all. It looks like someone has been in there with a hone before--doesn't look like factory hone marks to me. That rusty spotting is terrible. I'd be willing to bet a lot of your oil burning issue is because of this.
depends on where its weaping......generaly replace it(im looking for a few "bad" or weaping stock units to see about making replacement seals for)
im defienetely getting a new cam chain, tensioner spring and o ring, stem seals and rings might get a new cam chain guide if it looks worn out my guess was that this motor got a new piston and bore a long time ago and hasnt been used much since, it has 175 psi. i have had it since may 2011 but have only ridden it up and down the street a few times... cant wait to get out on it! i noticed theres three headgaskets stacked when i pulled the head, anyone know whats up with that? where do you guys buy OEM parts?, i bought from partspitstop.com but it was pretty expensive last time...
also im having trouble getting the jug off, all the bolts are out, i tapped it with a rubber hammer a few times but dont want to break off the cooling fins. any tips/tricks?
