Yeah I too would want a NEW engine. But if Honda only wants to rebuild the bad engine then I would request/ demand a factory extended warranty.
Does anyone have contact info on said rep? I think most, if not all of us here would bang out an email and assist in the cause.... I have had well over 35 Hondas and would be glad to voice an opinion!
Remember on this carb its a fuel screw not a air screw. Try it at 55/160 2 1/2 turns out. If you have mods you say you do. This should but real close to a good running bike. Ben
For an engine that's been oil starved, it's gotta be a new engine. An XRL is made to last a fair number of miles, would suck to have to replace the trans or such at 10,000 miles because it got no oil during break-in (that's a key point, this happened during break-in, parts are going to be scuffed or overheated). It's 'nice' to hear the factory guys find it as easy as us yokels to kink the oil lines- haven't touched 'em myself yet but I hear you have to be very careful about that. Dave
NOPE.... I have an airbox. The only thing I have done is..... I took a stock filter and cut all the paper off it to creat a "FRAME" then I put a Twin Air filter over said frame.. The stock filter has that metal mesh inside it, and then with the twin filter should be adequete. RIght?!?! I can't seem to figure it out. I'm going to pull the carb apart this week, but don't know what I am looking for. It's "daves modded" (of course). I just can't figure out the flat sputtering spot. I do find myself constantly adjusting my idle if that helps with any ideas.
Hey Doughy... I just installed a fresh motor and have had FITS with the new pumper carb. Turns out the manifold had a crack in it, causing popping and sporadic idle. I installed a new manifold and it has ALMOST gone away.. Try spraying starter fluid very gently around the intake at idle and see if you get a variation in idle speed. If so, you may have the same situation Hope this helps!!!
I'll try this, but should I have a craked intake on a 2008? I do have some good milage, 18500ks.... But I'll try anything. It would be nice to be running right again. Thank you
Thanks !! I was wandering if the Maier guards would work (I like those ). I can see how they would help in Alaska. I though about putting the stock ones over the bars but I don't wont to cut them up. I got plenty of other plastic to cut up first . Thanks
YES.... it translates into about a 140/150 BUT you might need to take your chain guard off.. You know that stupid flismy thing... Edit: you will also have to put the tire on when it's flat because the discc brake guard might get in the way. Pump it up when it goes on the bike. Laser, you still have the templates for the case guards?
That what I am running now. I did not have to remove anything. Kenda and shinko tires are a smaller than most. Ben
I was thinking of getting the stuff I wanted/needed off of it like the wheels so that i have a dirt/trail setup on my bike. Also, I could keep the CDI box since its always a good idea to have a spare. Just odds and ends stuff. My older cousin is always bugging me to get another off road bike so that he and i can go off and ride, so i offered it to him and told him i would help him fix it since i damn near know these bikes inside out from all the shit i've done to mine, but he was unsure about it. I think i'll make my final decision when i get back from my cross country trip i'm taking on friday. so, i'll let everyone know if i'm gonna part it out in a few weeks.
Dangit Rockit, now I'm going to have to put an IMS on the DR so you don't have to carry a siphon tube for me....
Hi guys, I just did a upgrade to my bike. I installed FMF(Dynojet) Stage 1 jets, Q4 FMF exhaust, and UNI foam filter. I installed a 160 jet and left the pilot jet as is. I have the mixture screw at 2-3/4 turns out and it runs pretty good, at 2000ft. I am stuck slighlty though. The stage 1 kit is recommended for unmodified airboxes but dave's carb mods instructs you to cut the airbox. So do I modify the air box at all or leave it as is?:huh
