How about: Cost? How's it working for you? I don't hate the airshock, but I'm not crazy about it either.
So I did a little looking around on the BMW parts list. I took some screen shots and posted the pic below. Both the Xchallenge and the Dakar have the same pic, but a few minor differences in the parts list. The primary being the part numbers on items #1 and #10. Look at the price of #1. :eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1:eek1 Guess I will take it easy on my charging system. Wonder if Rotax sells a kick start kit. What is the charging system on the Xmoto and Xcountry like? Same as the Xchallenge?
I think the early reluctance to do this mod was because it would void the engine warranty. By now, though, there are surely enough bikes out of warranty that somebody should be willing to try it. If you trust Colebatch's opinion as much as I do, the Rotax engine is almost bulletproof and this little bit of extra strain should be nothing. BTW, the XCountry and XMoto have the same little generator as the XChallenge.
I don't hate the air shock but I found it a bit fiddly and the pros and cons of a pump up system cancel each other out in my opinion It cost me $700 aud which is about $577 at today's rate. The seat height is lower now and the sag is much less. I have only had one ride with my Hagon shock installed but this is my initial impression. To be brutally honest I don't find the overal perfomance of the monoshock to be huge in comparison to the air shock, but having said that , it does feel a little bit better to me. It feels like the bike is griping the surfaces that I am riding over better than with the air shock. I noticed this most on the bitumen; possibly because I rode on bitumen to get to some trails where I could try it out. I did a little bit of single track and was quite happy with the way the monoshock handled whoops. My route for the day included some drainage humps across the fire trails but with the recent rains these were a bit washed out I did not get the opportunity to do any jumps. On a particular bit of road where I usually let the back end hang out exiting the corners, I found that the bike was not as loose as I had grown accustomed to and did not respond as it did with the air shock. Similarly I had found previously that I could even back the Xchallenge into some favorite corners but with the monoshock the front end was washing out. So, I guess I'm saying that overall it feels like the back end isn't as light as it was with the air shock.
Just more info ... I still havent done it yet ... but still plan to in the next few weeks. The biggest drain on the battery appears to be the fan. I only had problems on days the fan was on a lot either due to loads of mud on the radiator or more slow technical riding. The front fender covers a lot of the radiator. Not sure how much with the standard fender, but with the Acerbis, its about 50% of the radiator is not doing much. Thats why I am also doing a fender change to a low fender. Basically, if you hear your fan coming on a lot, you better not be running much else. I dont know how many watts it is, but it drains the battery, so its a lot. I also spoke to guys in Germany who race X-Challenges in 24 hour races and need heavy duty lights. They have just plain switched the generator to a 400w F650 single generator ... changed nothing else, and have had no problems at all.
I posted somewhere else earlier, there is a UK company, Electrex, that sells brand new replacement F650 generators for less than 60 quid. You dont even want to think about kick starting that engine. I cant even clutch start it unless I am doing 25 mph and in 4th gear! Xmoto and Xcountry have exactly same engine ... and ergo exactly same charging system
Thanks for the info! The kick start thing was a joke, I used to ride an XT-500, glad those days are over. I will search for Electrex.
I'm changing out the stock instrument cluster for a Trail Tech Vector and will be using the Touratech LED Control Lamp standard for the warning lights/turn signals. I'd like to use just one of the LEDs for both turn signals. I called Touratech and the fella said I could try connecting both (2 positive wires to one and the 2 signal negative to the single connection for that one LED ) but he wasn't sure if it might then end up powering both and basically be like hazards. I've got a wiring diagram but thought I'd ask the populace to see if anyone has tried it. He said I could try using an inline diode if it were a problem but want to keep things as simple as I can
I would have to look at the wiring diagram for the G650, but on other bikes I have worked on a key on hot wire went from a power source, through the flasher, to the left/right switch. After either the left or right circuit is selected with the switch, current flows through the switch to the lamps and then to ground (actually from ground to the battery but that is not relevant here). So if you were able to tap into the circuit before the switch, you could only use one LED, but it would always be on. Unless you got fancy and ran 12V to the LED, then to that flasher circuit, then the LED would come on when the switch was closed and the bulbs were drawing current. I have not tested this, but the parallel power circuit through the LED should flow enough current to light the LED. Be sure to tie into the circuit between the battery and the flasher, not between the flasher and the switch or the lights will not flash. All this will work if my speculation of how the G650 blinker circuit works is correct. If you have a wiring diagram in soft copy send it to me swartzy(at)cox.net To do it like the touratech guy said, after the switch, if you tie the left and right circuits together, then all the lamps will flash. You could do it with two diodes, one between the left circuit and the LED, and one between the right circuit and the LED, then you could use one LED. HTH
I purchased the BMW Manual on CD for the G650. I think it's great. I had a "backup" of the R1200 manual which i found on line. It was good. I was more than happy to purchase the G650 manual. It has all the information I need to maintain and service the bike. (I also have a a GS-911 tool).
I'm replacing the stock speedo with a trail tech Vector and it will read engine /coolant temp and give a yellow warning for high temp and a second red for a "danger" temp but those temps need to be programmed into the computer. Anybody know what max temp makes the stock temp light come on and that I should program to give the computer a reference # for the lights? Thanks
Yep, I lost my key. Wifey searched high and low for a local locksmith to do a copy. Eventually she got someone who could do it. Finally got one, but although it looks like an identical cut, it wont go in. Anyone else had success with this? How much for a BMW replacement?
Maybe if you just clean your copy up a bit with a wire brush or some wet n dry to get it a little more rounded it might work http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007...3265513QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Had a replacement cut at a supermarket with no problems. Alittle bit rough to put in the first time so give it a bit of a rub like DS suggested to take sharp edges off.
On my 1150GS I had keys cut by a hardware store no problems. The keys are same type (cuts on both outer edges). My HP2 only came with one key (totally different key flat on the outer edges cuts in the center) and I just ordered a key from my BMW dealer $50. They just needed the Vin# and it came and it works. So unless the Xchallenge keys have some electrical component the key you had made should work just double check it and clean it up a bit. If that dosnt work take it back to the guy who cut it and make a new one. OR the dealer can order a factory key for you with a VIN#.
I'm replacing my rear tire on Saturday.. Anything unusual about the XC I need to be aware of? I have ABS.. Otherwise it's just off with the oold and on with the new right?
