The BMW HP2 Megamoto thread.

My new to me HP2 Megamoto was delivered today.

The ride height is set on the lowest settings and the rear preload looks quite high, previous owner was presumably a heavy short arse git.

I am 6'4'' and an athletic (ha ha) 17 stone (238 lb, 108 kg), i.e. a heavy lanky git. I do not intend to carry a pillion.

I reckon that I need to put the ride height back to the high setting (BMW's recommendation) and will probably need to keep the preload high??

I do not have a clue on the other suspension settings, any recommendations would be gratefully received.

You need a stiffer spring in the rear. Front also, but start with the rear.

Recommendation for the rear spring, i.e. Ohlin part number??

From memory you'll be two to three spring rates heavier than stock, but Ohlins are amazingly good about getting the right info to you, just call their customer service. If you have a shop you like I'd really suggest getting Racetech here in the US to send you their fork kit for your weight.

Hi Ron,

Hope you enjoy the bike.

I would recommend putting the suspension back to the factory standard settings as described in the handbook. Easy and simple to do, even if you don't know much about suspension. Then go and ride the bike. If you're not happy when you've ridden it a while, then look at making changes.

Macfly is a big advocate of the Racetech set up, and I have had two bikes previously that I've had the Racetech kit installed on and was really happy with them (PDQ are their UK distributor, and are very knowledgeable). But, I've never felt the need to go the Racetech route on my Megamoto.

I did spend a fair amount of time adjusting the standard suspension to get it how I wanted, and am now more than happy with it. The bike can be quite sensitive to the weight of rider, how it is ridden and the type of roads it's ridden on. For that reason, it best to take everything back to standard, start from there and decide if YOU are happy with it.

Everybody feels different things when riding and everybody style is different, so ten riders will give you ten different opinions. Ride it and decide for yourself. If you're happy then that's all that really matters.

Ok Guys - many thanks for all your responses. I will start with setting everything back to standard on a high ride height and then see how it goes. Could be a while before I get to ride it though - the weather has turned cold and the salt gritters are out. I found this company from an internet search, they are fairly close to where I live so I could use them if major changes are required to spring ratings etc, looks like they also have links to Racetech.

http://www.moto-pro.co.uk/index.htm

marc, if you only turned back preload, i would say that this tuning is well within the range of what is possible with the standard spring. to say that the set up is completely out of range is than a bit to much. offcourse this was a very important change for you, why not try 1 turn more and see how that works out.

further i do agree with joe bar, as everywhere to find on the internet, do not take over the settings from somebody else, because you are not that some body. like hpsaucy did, you can let somebody ride on your bike but their findings are of no importance, so infact it is of no use to get any valuable information.

if you want any source of information regarding suspension for the mm, hpsaucy did make a start on his page, other information like weight, ride style, road/track, fast/ illegal, and more important how many turns is your preload , fast and slow inbound, what is your static and activ sag for front and back. only then one can start to compare or do something with the info for your own good.

it must be strange to read that rote eddy with his feather weight has no complains and that marc only needed to turn down his preload to have a bike that suites his needs. but with the other info maybe this can be put in a better respect. a spring works very light with little demping and harder with more demping, if this info is not known, there can be no comparison.

well, you are right

I can check my settings and publish them. I assure that as it is now, even on tracks for education to circuit with De Radigues or Mertens school, the bike is just fantastic for me.
I don't want to sell it anymore as I have no passion with bikes, they are only tools for fun but no "blind passion".

actually, i am interested in your settings marc, i carry just a little less weight than you and the riding conditions are comparable, track and ardennes etc.

I'd also love to hear your setting, the main reason I set up my site is to be an easy place to find things like that.

Hi,

I did some pics, easier than to explain.

The fork & rear are fixed in original position, the higher ones.

Factory settings in first post.

My settings in last post.

The last sentence means that I soften the pre-load spring (rear) for 1 lap.

Hope you understand

http://jemelapetenflat.xooit.be/t1333-Amortisseurs-Settings-depart-usine.htm

thnx.

Hi GSMarc, I can see your pics and understand what you are saying, what is the starting point? Is it + clicks until go no further and then - clicks back to your positions??

And... - clicks is anti-clockwise?

Thanks Marc, I've also added it to my database. I know it sounds funny to say this, but with so few of our bikes out there, and the water cooled boxers just a year or so away I think our bikes are going to become incredibly collectable classics, as well as being a blast to ride, so thats why I'm trying to keep as much long term info as I can.

Megathumper, will all valve based suspension tuning it is always done by click out from the full shut or "+" postition,

The easy visualization is that it is a tap, and full "+" is shut. Each click open allows more fluid to flow. It is always a more accurate measurement from full shut than full open, thus always close the valve, and measure amount of clicks of the opening.

So that I get this right, like a tap, full "+" shut is all way in clockwise? Then, back it (anti-clockwise) from there the number of "-" clicks.

Good job of the description Andrew...

In every application I am aware of yes, all the shock tuning I've done on cars at the track the screw diriction has been conventional - clockwise to close, anti to open, but alwasy check the '+' & '-' because someone out there may find a reason use a reverse thread for some reason.

oh yes, and the '+' means stiffer, or less liquid passing through the valve.

The other thing not often explained but easy to understand is that the scale of flow through the valve is not linear. The difference in from -1 to -2 is almost 100% while the difference between -17 & -18 is only around 5%.

That is also why it makes the most sense to start things out in the middle of the range and adjust from there, all other things being equal.

After 10 years setting up track day cars I'm very familiar with suspension set ups for 4 wheelers, but honestly I'm still at the begining of the learning curve for bikes!

Well after reading all 104 pages of this thread, what else could I do? Found this '08 w/ABS Megamoto at a dealer in Escondido CA today and added it to the stable. Also have a 09 RT and the wife picked up a '10 650 GS at the same time. Bike has 1900 miles and is in great condition except the stock Akra can was damaged in shipping. Anyone have one in the corner of their garage in good condtion that they want to get rid of? Sure is fun to ride! Add me to the list!