I found it pretty easily here: http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/motorcycle/sheet/scorpion_pro_fim.html?url=?subtype=off-road&use=1 I think that they just changed the name a little to designate the F.I.M racing development.
From a friend of mine who places very well in the Baja Hare Scrambles.....He's a big believer in FIM enduro comp tires.... "I always talk about these. and use them for years now. Ive pulled holeshots in pure sand on my 450 with these because the actual carcass is like a balloon and float up on top. For sharp stuff that same carcass acts like a trials tire and wraps around stuff with great edcr absorbtion. unlike trials tires they are designed to ride/slide/and power around corners at speed, the side walls are more flexible than mX tires but a less flexxy then the high sidewall trials tires. FIM tires are DOT and designed not to dig the crap out terrain EU is very picky about that stuff FIM has complied. PS you dont need big knobs on rocks you need more surface area and carcass flex for grip. IMHO alot of folks using trials tires are trying to accomplish whats all ready been done for non-trials bikes, using FIM enduro comp tires (always 13psi and under, I ran mine at 12F and 10R now i use michelin mousses so its no issue) FIM enduro tires, Pirelli Scorpion Pros (easiest and cheapest of the FIM to get here in the US). I would use any of the brands but pirellis are readily availble here. Factual- Most every extreme enduro superstar (erxberg winners, romaniac winners,roof of africa winners etc) uses FIM enduro comp tires the added key for them is their use of drilled and cut Mousses for a single digital psi feel. if you use tubes go with michelin airstop HDs at 10psi or even less in rear and 12 or less up front. if using them go with the 90/90-21 front for all sizes and 120/90-18 size for 250 and - 4T and 249 and- 2Ts. 250+ 2 stroke and 350+ 4T go with the 140/80-18. I use 120/90-18 on my 310 because its really a 250 size machine. "
Thanks again Chris. Going to put a lower profile rear on the wife's we as the trials is a bit tall for her. I'm loving the low impact of it here on the mountain. Tractoring up these hills with almost no impact is great. Feel free to stop by and ride any of our two and a half WR's if you get the itch, but be warned, the new one is pretty low on power...
I put a Shinko SR241 on the rear of my WR and I like it. I have another bike with an MT43 on it. The SR241 is at least an inch shorter over all than the MT43 so there is an option. Plus they are pretty cheap. I might could get some pics later if you want them.
I'll come up sometime with the KTM and we'll romp around the mtn (when it's not raining or snowing)..... I'll let you know on foot pegs after this weekend....
Hey everyone, I've been thinking of picking up an R model for an extended trip that is being planned with a friend. After reading many of the post on here, I'm sure I will be happy. I had been considering the XT250 but I think that the WR will be a much more capable bike. My only concern is the height, I am what you would say, vertically challenged. That is the only area where the XT would be a perfect fit. My inseam is 30", and I have had a TTR250 for better then 10 years that has a similar seat height as the WR. However, I think that for a month long ride I would be better off with a bike under 33". Just wondering what you guys thought about getting that seat closer to the ground. Installing a lowering link and adjusting the rear and front could get me nearly 2", changing seats I might get 1". How about putting X rims on and running a dual sport tire rather then a knobby? Your thoughts?
I also am not too tall and I have no problems with this bike. You can lower the bike 1'' with the adjuster on the shock, then get the lowering link, and if you still feel it's too tall, get the spiral step seat. It will give you another inch. I'd go for the WR if I were you, but I was tired of carburetors already...
My inseam is 29"... I lowered the back 1" (maximum for the 'standard suspension'), raised the forks 5/8" of an inch. No problems as long as you have... I guess, 'low profile' tires. (i.e. not 606's and other big outside diameter tires). Seat Concepts seat... I've ridden mine for 500 mile days.
I have a 30" inseam and have done the factory lowering, and the Yamalink. That all worked great for me until I put the d 606 on the rear and a mt21 on the front.. LOL Watch out for the tires you pick to put on the bike.. I like to get both feet on the ground at the same time.. lol
i've have some heated clothes that i want to use, gloves and a jacket,i was wondering what wire to tap into for the power.i have heard that the power wire going into the headlight hi/lo beam switch is a good one as it is only hot when the bike is running.does this have enough power to run both the headlight and my heated gear. cheers, jon
For heated gear, I just run the harness directly off the battery. I wouldn't tap into the headlight wiring for that. The heated gear will only be drawing current when you're on the bike with it plugged in, so no worries about running the battery down (unless you like to sit on the bike in heated gear without the engine running...).
You only have to worry about seat height when you come to a stop....and if you only have one leg. :) Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I run my heated grips off the headlamp circuit, but run my heated gear plug off its own circuit off the battery. I don't think there's enough spare amps in the headlamp circuit for a heated jacket's power draw, and wouldn't want to risk the headlight blowing in the middle of a ride to find out.
Thanks for the replies on the seat height. I think I'll be happy with it, now I just need to wait on a sweeeet deal.