shimming will work on any carb since most come epa lean. sometimes mpg goes down slightly, stays the same or goes slightly up. it all depends on what the engine wants for the area u ride in, this was told to me by Marc the owner of Factorypro. he always stresses, its what that particular engine/bike combo wants.
I wrote Jesse today to ask about removing the airbox lid in conjunction with the jet kit: "We went through all of this in designing the new jet kit with the performance needle. The lid off is the only way to make it work properly. Your air filter does what it is supposed to do as far as keeping foreign matter out of the engine lid or no lid. Small holes only cause turbulence and less needed air flow that is needed to balance the air / fuel ratio. We have sold hundreds of these jet kits and have no reports of any problems with the lid off. Jesse"
Does no one ride these bikes in a downpour or ford a water XCing exuberantly? Seems like that might be the real issue with an open airbox...
the factory holes cause turbulence? like the engineers don't do any design work. there is a reason for the # and size of the holes used by the Suzuki engineers its called air box tunning. In fact all 3 holes provide more open area than the carb opening. where are his dyno result graphs to prove this? not on his site. not saying his kit doesn't work, its just not needed in my opinion unless and aftermarket pipe and can are used.
Hi all. I've had a DR200 for a couple months now. Got it to scratch an itch I had to ride in the dirt again. I've actually read all 411 pages of this thread (finally) and thought I'd check in to say hello. What I've done so far (preface: all I care about is riding as hard as I can in the dirt, btw): Kientech jet kit Kientech pipe mod, also have an FMF 2 stroke pipe that came with the bike that actually works well after repacking it, believe it or not. Currently am running the FMF pipe for weight considerations. (and yes, I know this sounds insane!) Took as much as I can off the bike for weight reasons - mirrors off (replaced with one small fold-away acerbis mirror that is good for legal reasons and not much else), smaller blinkers, passenger pegs off, etc. Also, I pretty much ride to the same place everytime (the Prairie City Motocross practice track in Folsom, CA) - so I've figured out how much gas I need and only add that amount to the bike when I leave. With the 1.5 gallons I don't add, save a lot of weight there too (about 10-11lbs). Rotated shifter up for boot clearance reasons, pulled rubber grommet off it for clearance reasons. Dremeled away part of the sprocket cover in order to give the shifter the clearance it needs. 3m protective film on the tank and some of the side plastic. My knee guards and boots are heck on those items. Installed BBR springs from the CRF150F, and generally have fiddled with the suspension as much as I can. It's helped a lot so far. Added rim locks front and rear, also heavy duty tubes. Balanced the wheels as well. Running dirt-oriented Kenda K760's on front and rear at 12-14psi in the dirt. (I fill the tires to 20+ psi when I ride to the track, let the air out at the track and then re-pump them up with a little 8" hand pump I carry in my small tool pack) Raised the forks 3mm in the triple clamps, may go up to 5mm soon. Added 30cc of 10wt (stock) oil to forks. May add a little more, but not much because worried about being close to max. All-in-all am having more fun than I counted on with this bike. It's a bit of a sled just by the nature of what it is (e.g., a dual sport that has some poundage on all-out dirt bikes/MXers), but it's actually quite capable of ripping around if tweaked with a little bit and ridden correctly.
Sorry, I should have posted my question too. I asked if I could cut holes in the lid instead of completely removing it.
Jesse had an original setup that called for a two inch hole in the airbox lid. The bike worked great with that setup. Then he tweaked the setup with different jets and the lid off completely. I went to the new setup and didn't like the intake noise. So I put the lid with the two inch hole back on and kept the latest jets. It runs perfectly and I've left it that way.
Here's a couple pics. Not much in the outright looks department (would love to do new front and rear fenders some day), but you can see the FMF Turbine core2 (which I have am still in the testing phase with - if it blows out the packing too fast, it's coming off. I have about 4 rides on it, so far so good, but it's still early). Can also see the Tusk stand I got for it - love this thing (was fairly cheap on Amazon and well worth it, imo), as well as the moose trail pack on top of the rear fender. The pack holds a surprising amount of stuff (patch kit, 3 tire irons, various other tools, a hand pump, tire guage). When I get to my riding area I take the pack off and store it in some bushes and come back for it (obviously not a good idea if you're going to ride really far from where you store it at, but I don't).
Thanks Klay! So just to clarify for my slow mind, you drilled one 2" hole in the center of the lid? I have everything apart right now. I plan to buy some screws, the stock ones are kinda chewed up. I am also replacing the petcock while I have it all torn up. Any idea what size screws I want? I will take them to the store and hope for the best I guess. Here are the manufacturers numbers: SKU: 1209635 Mfg. Part Number: 02112-0412A SKU: 26080 Mfg. Part Number: 02112-0408A
All done! New Allen head screws, new jets, new needle, new petcock with off, new hole in the air box. It's running great, and seemed to warm up much quicker. It might have a hair more power, not sure. Thanks!
Nice looking dr there! Looks like you keep her in shape and sounds like you put plenty of work into her as well. Thanks for the pics! I like that moose bag may have to put one on mine :)
Saw my first 2013 today. (Coleman's, Woodbridge, VA). Like the old saying; the more things change, the more they stay the same. Looked like all the rest. The only thing changed is the price. BTW: Klay. I was spoofing you on the fuel injection. But I guess you already figured that out.
As someone has pointed out, the US Suzuki website says that fuel capacity of the 2013 DR200SE is 11L (2.9 US gal.). In other markets (e.g., Canada, Australia, S. Africa, and New Zealand) the fuel capacity still is 13L (3.4 US gal). Is the US model really different or is the info on the US website wrong?
The site has contradictory information, so I am assuming the figure cited in the 'specifications' section is in error. Under 'features', they discuss a 3.4 gallon tank.
I thought I'd throw some info I've learned about the DR200se suspension up here for general interest. First the front end - obviously very softly sprung. After putting in the BBR fork springs I'm now putting in some Maxima 15wt oil as well since the forks are still bottoming too easily on stuff it shouldn't be. I'm running .062 inch preload spacers to maintain the sag I want to achieve. It worth noting that these spacers are a lot shorter than the stock spacers, since the BBR springs themselves are longer than the stock springs. My goal was to stiffen up the front, not whack-out the steering geometry which is already a little more biased to the rear than I would like…which brings me to my final change - the fork tubes are slid up in the triple clamps by 5mm (this has the effect of lowering the front end, which puts more weight on it, which helps the bike steer better). Now the rear. It's a tough go out back. Obviosly there's not a lot of options stock - dial in more preload, or take some away. Well, after researching and some fiddling there's a little more to report but nothing great to do about it, unfortunately: 1. The rear of the DR200SE has much higher leverage ratio than almost any motorcycle you can find (especially post-80's). This means that the rear wheel is traveling further for any given inch than the actual shock body is moving than on most motorcycles. I was informed of this in a long conversation with someone at Works Performance. This fact can be confirmed by noting just how short the overall shock lenght is on the DR200 relative almost any other non-80'cc motorcycle. (this link http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/dirtbikes.pdf whick (among other things) shows shock lengths for many, many dirtbikes) The ramifications of the DR's high leverage ratio are quite a few - one of which you may be surprised to find; the DR200's stock shock spring is necessarily super stiff compared to what you would find on most other similar motorcycles. This means forget ever taking the spring off of something else and putting on the DR200 - the DR200's spring is probably stiffer already! (Works said stock spring is #410) More ramifications 1. Trying to achieve satisfactory compression and rebound characteristics from a high leverage ratio shock is tougher than on one with a lower leverage ratio. The compression and rebound valving is being asked to handle an awful lot in such a short space of actual shock travel. 2. The average recommended sag settings one finds all over the internet, at least in my trial and error testing has no place with the DR200. When I got the rear sag to the recommended '33% of travel' the rear kicked wildly over jumps and whoops due to way-too-fast rebound. As such I run my DR with more like 40% sag and it behaves as well as it's going to in stock form. (note: the rear sitting so low is why I lowered the front end by raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps - again this is done in order to maintain nice tight steering characteristic). That's pretty much it - I'd love to see how a Works Performance shock works out back and may yet still take that plunge, but for now just putting up with the stocker and wishing it was better. :) EDIT: Btw, I'm fairly light at 150lbs, but I ride more aggressively than most. Obviously one's own weight and riding style needs to be taken into account in regard to the observations above.
The fellow I talked to at the dealer said that as far as he knew, there was no change. Of course they don't have gas in the showroom models so I guess one of us would have to buy one and test it.
