KTM 640 Adventure owners, sign in please...

If you have enough miles to be burning oil, you may as well do the inlet cam follower bearings (or whatever they're called), known to self destruct at around 50k on average, but some go lots earlier.

do I have your old bike? I bought this one from a fella down in GA. My first one I bought from a fella in FL, both said they bought em from out west somewhere. They are hard to find on the east coast.

Naaw - JK - they're just twins 'cept the decal on the right side of my tank hasn't blown off yet. Got mine from lucky_strike in Louisville.

ya i didnt think they were the same because yours already had the front wheel recall done. Mine hasnt yet.

Let us know how the windscreen works out. I've been running a Laminar lip for the past 28,000 miles on my 07. I'm looking for something that might be better. With the added stress on the front mask, don't be surprised if the mask mounting points on the gas tank start snapping off. It's easy to fix or replace them.

daryl

Heres mine

Loving it

Mods since buying :

Fairing

Removed Pannier racks

Chris barnes tank protectors

Exhaust

Very, very nice looking .......

The few last things I want to do to my 2000 is;

FMF exhaust
The taller shield from the guy out in Germany
The KTM "comfort" saddle. The saddle on mine, which is after market is like sitting on a 4 x 4 .....

Oh - and the tank protectors ......

G.

Some of you were asking about the auxiliary lights on my bike. I do not know too much about them, but here are some shots of how the PO mounted them.

It's a cantilevered bracket holding the lamps...there is a spacer under the bracket against the fender and a couple of rubber washers between the lights and the fender.

I hope this helps.

nice, my plan is to add some Denali LED's from Twisted Throttle to mine

Was riding yesterday and my clutch went out. Looked and was very low on mineral oil in the hydro clutch.

Put some in and must be some air in the line (to be expected) cause the clutch was acting funny.

Whats the procedure for bleeding the clutch?

slave cylinder O ring?

Yes if you never saw any leaks from the cables or anywhere the chances are very likely that your slave cylinder o-ring has called it a day. If it were me I would pull the slave cylinder off and check it out, replace the o-ring with a good viton o-ring and bleed the system with some new mineral fluid. You bleed it from the bottom up. It's like bleeding brakes you need a syringe with 6mm id tube to go over the little nipple and as you crack it you slowly push the new oil through. You might have to do it a few times to get all the air out (I did) and you can see little bubbles escaping the top reservoir. It is good to have someone help you.

Cheers

I agree, change the o-ring in the slave. For bleeding, I used a syringe and clear vinyl hose to bleed from the bottom up as GreyDawgg suggests. Once you are done that, give it a few pumps, then, while holding the clutch lever in, just crack the bleed nipple on the slave slightly, and you will probably find one last bubble hanging out in the slave, at least I did.

The clutch went soft on me on the '03 at a real-live fork in the road up in AR a few years back where a guy named one-legged Bill who owned a mule on a rope came to the rescue.

How are you guys removing the piston in the Slave Cylinder in order to gain access to the O-Ring?

I remember reading that the Slave Cylinder O-Ring is the very same size as the one used in the counter shaft O-Ring is this correct?

Dirty

I have done these twice already on my short career with the bike :)
Remove the piston in the slave by blowing it out with compressed air or your mouth - the choice is yours :) Watch out for the small spring and the ball.

Why twice you may ask… I somehow managed to pinch the silicon o-ring I have used from the CS-seal kit I have spare.
I don't know why and how but I have pulled it out again and it was pinched and destroyed. Removed, cleaned and installed real black o-ring I have buyed in the small shop aka 'everything from rubber' nearest to my place. It was maybe 1$ investition.
So get the right o-ring don't be skimpy

I learned the thing by loosing all of the pressure in the clutch overnight. I have a funny feeling that the bleeding is not quite easy in the clutch. I have bled it from the bottom and it was endless repetition of pumping these small bubles out of the reservoir.
Don't loose Your faith it will finally get hard the clutch I mean.

My clutch went last week too. Where do you get o-rings other than the KTM rebuild kit?

It is Gunnerbuck that figured the countershaft o-ring is the same, so I went ahead and ordered a couple. Used one, and one as a spare, and the best part is I recall they are less than $3.

If your bike has been sitting around for a while, you may just be able to top off and go. Mine goes soft over winter, and although I squeeze the lever every so often, it is soft the day I want to ride it.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I guess Ill order a countershaft o ring and rebuild the slave.

I didn't ride a couple months because of foot surgery but have ridden a couple times about a week or two apart. No sense of loss of clutch those times or I did not notice.

The slave cylinder looked ok except for some discolorations, freckles. Look like metal coating imperfections not wear or o-ring material. O-ring looked fine through a magnifying glass. Probably the o-ring dried up too much while idle and fluid leaked into engine case then first use could have pinched or twisted the o-ring losing the rest of the fluid.

Ordered the Slave cylinder kit already, will get a countershaft o-ring or two for spares.

Thanks,
Ed