Skinny...check, long reach...check, long inseam...check, tiny feet...nope! Good idea but I will leave that type of modification as a last resort. Also, I am not sure that I want the lever to be farther away from the bike to the left. I'd rather just have it angled more upwards and have it farther from the footpeg. What do you think about cutting a notch out of the never itself where it hits the engine casing? Has anyone done that? Will it weaken the lever too much? What about moving the footpeg back? Any information on that? Looking at the DR350 exploded parts views, it seems like the shift lever is screwed on from the top, not the bottom, which could make installing the lever a hassle, even if the spline size/count is the same. Even though no one actually provides any detail on the dimensions, it looks like most of the other DR's have a bigger lever.
Someone else did just that. It is in this thread within a month or two - I think the word "weld" is in the post.
From 2 pages ago, here's what I did with mine to rectify the problem. Precisely as you said. This picture was done with a dremel which is all I had available at the time. When I got back home from school, I reground it with an angle grinder and it looks a lot better.:
Wow, not sure how I missed that. I guess because it was on the bottom of the page. Thanks for the info. I still want to leave this kind of thing as a last resort. I don't have easy access to power or welding tools. I am waiting on a reply from the Procycle folks. They have a DR350 lever which looks like it may fit.
Yeah, that was me. Had same problem with my 12" size MX boots and clearence. Removed footpegs, took them to a welder guy, who cut console shorter and welded footpeg back to very close to the bolt.
I'm thinking about fitting some saddlebags but they are like to touch the exhaust heat shield. If I was to fit some kind of heat insulating material between the exhaust and the heatshield would it prevent exhaust heat from disapating?
On my DR350, I smashed a large beer can and wired it in place. Works great. On the 200, I run plastic Ortlieb bags and they lay directly on the muffler guard (the little guard on the stock muffler) and they don't melt. I'd be a little nervous about this in very hot weather, though.
Beer can, awesome. Also will these tank bags work well on the dr200? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moose-BIG-H...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43ac343ab0
I'm looking for a new set of tank panniers too. The ones I had were made for ATVs but they are no longer made.
my starter's main seal is leaking and the brushes are about spent. i cleaned all the oil out yesterday to get it to start and know it is just a matter of time before i have to do it again. down here (southern chile), apparently you need the physical dimensions of the seals to ask for them, not the part number, like on a bearing. can anybody tell me this? i don't want to pry the old seal out until i am SURE i can get a replacement on the spot. same question for the clutch seal on the top of the case... my breather must be plugged to be losing oil up high like this, huh? thanks for any tips. i just posted about my trip in south america on ride reports.
