ok, i was just wondering if you bent the stock header or if it was aftermarket. yea i cant afford any tt stuff just ebay or salvage yard for me.
simple ram mount for a gps. i got longer handlebar mount bolts and bolted the ram mount directly to the top of the clamp. i had to drill the hole slightly for the clamp bolt to go though but its solid. almost bolted it straight to the bar as a bar mount but not sure how strong the ram mount is for holing the bar by itself.
They've got a compleat set up with carbon fiber fairing, headlights with HID high beam, and one of thier IMO gauge replacment computors. Is it worth the price? To me no, but to some it's just money.. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/...-with-carbonfibre-fairing-HID-and-speedometer
Basically there are 3 ways: 1. remove it without any mods(if you dont have ABS). 2. cut a section out of it and replace with oil proof hose, 3. replace the rigid line entirely with aftermarket hose. I chose option 1 cause I dont have abs and could reach the bolt that holds the line to the engine block. Most people choose option 2 because its fast, easy, & cheap. 3 is very nice if you have the $$ for a pro to make one. BAT makes one for the F650. Search the threads on f650.com too. Sounds like your waterpumpseals blew and coolant is in the oil. You will probably have to change both, and you may want to get a jug of cheap oil and a bottle of seafoam to flush the motor for the initial oil change. That will get the cappachino out of the motor, then drain and then use good oil.
Anyone else have some ideas where to look for these? I too have looked around and not found anything including Radio Shack.
Touratech sells these for $140 . Thats just for the lights. http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2203/PN-030-0033/SPORT-Control-lamps-kit-LED-Dash-Lights I'm going to do everything in my power to make my stock guage set up work with the new fairing.
Ya, a little rich for my blood. I did make one out of some square tube aluminum that hold the lights from the backside of the stock dash. A little getto, but it works. I was thinking maybe a block of plastic drilled to hold the lights (I have LED bulbs in them already) would work better. Time to fire up the drill press Oh, and check this thread out if you have not seen it. Good ideas here. Ralley navigation build thread. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684282
Friday night forever Some of you remember I posted a couple of links to a band called Amulet. After they split up the singer went solo and has three videos out. They're a trilogy and were all directed by Emil Trier and each one depict different norwegian youth cultures. These videos just blow my mind. All of them bring back personal memories, but more than that, and I think you'll agree, it's the cinematography combined with the accompanied soundtracks that is just amazing. Legal ages: Driving: 18 Drinking: 18 (beer and wine) Drinking: 20 (liquer) Voting: 18 2009 The only Game featuring Maria Due - "RĂ¥nere" - countryside redneck culture. You'll find this anywhere outside of the 5-6 largest cities (largest city here is the capital Oslo with its 600.000 people) <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z10cty0F1uI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> 2010 Big Day featuring Maria Due - "Russ" - High school graduating class. Special for Norway is that different majors have different color overalls; Red = science, literature and language Blue = economics, marketing and business There are also, green, yellow, black, pink and white I think. Kids drop anywhere between $2.000 for a shitty van and $200.000 for a serious party bus like the one in this video. "Party season" starts for real in late april and culminates with our independence day which is May 17th. The vehicles are sold on to next years class some time during summer. They'll be done over from top to toe and the party circle continues <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9IgXCBKIf7A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> 2011 I came here featuring Maria Due - "Sami" - indigenous people settled in the northern part of Scandinavia (Norway and Sweden), Finland and Russia. Also known as "Lapp people" and the area is called Lappland in Swedish. Originally nomads herding rein deer. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7baANbAfn5s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
FBOA with ABS here, so it looks like #2. Is Fritzy's description in the FAQs still a good guide? Is that the best place to make the cut? I've been looking through the f650.com threads but so far have just seen discussion about improving the water pump and seals... One other question, if you get enough hose to route the line around the clutch cover so that the cover can be removed without disconnecting the line, does it make the process any easier than not having to remove a hose clamp?
I keep hearing this and I can't for the life of me figure out what this should be good for. Would you keep turning the key in your car for 3-4 second after it fires up ? I'd appreciate it if someone who suggests doing this would also explain the reasoning behind this procedure.
I've had problems with creeping currant between the LEDs with this one (originating somewhere in the harness I think). Especially when it's raining. The high beam LED is way to bright and actually blinds you in the dark so I had to paint it bacl with a sharpie. It still glows just the right amount of blue through the ink. I tried using the gear change LED where the fuel light is originally, but it's never worked. Might just need a resistor like the oil pressure/ voltage LED does, but I've only ran out of fuel a couple of times since 2003 without the fuel light so I haven't bothered with it.
When i try starting the cold engine in coldish ambient temps, if i let go of the starter button when i hear it fire the first time, it usually stalls. Never timed it, but think anything past the first couple ignitions works...
Sure, I hold the button in untill it's fired up properly (mine also stalls sometimes if it only cranks once), but 3-4 seconds is a very long time. If the idea is just to hold it long enough that it runs why not say that ? I reckon there are several new owner out there who keep cranking long after it's fired up because they read it here and that can't be good for the starter, battery etc in the long run.
The ECU gets a signal from the starter circuit, and it richens up the injection more than normal for a cold start. It knows when you're pressing the button. I'm guessing that it keeps that enrichment as long as the button is pressed, so when it's cold, it's just enough for the first few seconds to keep the engine from stalling again. When it's REALLY cold, the same trick works on my car. It has to be below zero fahrenheit to need it though.