Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

I don't know if I could give up my 950 SE... It's nice to have both.

The SE is great for just gobbling up miles on a long trip and will go many more places than you'd think it would (or should)... especially if you get in those "have to" situations like we sometimes seem to do.

The WR-R is a great compliment to it and after the SE feels like a mountain bike!

Love 'em both!

Machtig, I've got 9k on my original seal protector (as they call it). Still running my same Sidewinder Smart Chain (all this time) & 13/46 gearing. My protector looks about half worn, maybe less. Really, its in decent shape.

My chain tension procedure is documented at www.WRRdualsport.com. I definitely prefer to keep it loose. Hate having a chain too tight. That can be bad for the motor, as well as the chain. I do clean my chain often, in Mineral Spirits, and keep it well lubed all the time. Maybe the problems are coming from worn, crusty, jammed links....as you've alluded to. Hhhmmm....

HF

p.s. I've finally booked my Dyno appointment for the Athena 290. Its going down 7-8-11. Earliest date I could get, once I got in the mood for it.

Please loosen your chain...have someone sit on your bike with it off the sidestand and then feel what the tension is. The way that the suspension moves through its travel really affects chain tension. With someone sitting on the bike you will be get a better "down the road tension" as chadx called it. I will be checking my chain like this from now on. It really changes what you think is a good tension when its sitting relaxed on the side stand.

Even just the weight of the bike increases tension quite a bit. Any time I think my chain might be too lose, I just stand the bike upright and push up and down on the chain. It is quite tight even with just the bikes weight much less with my weight. That little check quiets the "better tighten that chain" voice in my head.

I thought you chewed through a front sidewinder "lifetime" sprocket and had to get it replaced under warranty? Might have been someone else's sidewinder. Or are you saying the same chain but different sprockets?

So, two days ago my stock tail lights were working great. Tonight, I've found that the rear running lights aren't working. Everything else works great, including the rear turn signals. Bike has been in the garage and not even started during this time.

Here is the trouble shooting I've done so far.

1. Front running lights work great
2. Front turn signals work great
3. Rear tail/brake light works great
4. Rear plate light works great
5. Rear turn signals work great

There are four connections to the rear light assembly. One each for the tail, L signal, R signal, plate. When you disconnect each, both the tail and plate lights go out, reconnect, both work. When you disconnect either of the signal light plugs, the respective rear turn signal stops working and the respective front signal flashes faster, indicating a problem on the rear light. When reconnected, the front and rear goes back to flashing at a normal pace, but the rear running light still doesn't function.

I'm kind of out of troubleshooting ideas going forward. Anybody have an idea?

You got the Service Manual and checking wiring.. fuses, grounds?

I believe what you're describing is normal behavior. The rear signals do not function as running lights.

Exactly correct.

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That is correct. I had to replace the TI counter-sprocket. I'm still running the original Smart Chain and TI rear sprocket. They are fine, except the rear teeth are getting a little thin.

The 2nd TI counter-sprocket is already showing significant wear, as the teeth are becoming quickly hooked. So, those aren't working out to good up front. I've had no issues with the rear sprocket and chain. No abnormal wear on my swingarm (seal) protector. Yes, it has some wear. Yes it should be replaced before too long. But, nothing like I've seen in these posts (eating thru into the swingarm).

HF

p.s. Think I'll be trying the Supersprox combo next time around....just because I want to.

Just put on some new Bridgestone rubber last night. ED03 up front and ED04 in the rear. Initial reaction... They are a huge improvement in traction offroad. I can not under normal starting and then mashing the throttle break the rear tire loose in the grass (obviously dumping the clutch might produce different results but i didnt try this). The front also hooks up as well under braking, used to be able to slide the front It just grabs now, to the point that you might be able to get the rear wheel off the ground. With the stock tires riding in the grass you would have to be careful not to break it loose. These you dont have to worry about washing out on you. The short jaunt around on the road are they feel as smooth as the trailwings which I was pleasantly surprised about. We will see how they hold up and how they act under spirited driving on the road, since its a slightly taller rear tire.

I was really thinking about the D606 that most people love but at $83 the price of the Bridgestones are what ultimately sold me at $59 front and $64 rear from motorcycle superstore, but I'm pretty Impressed from what i could gather from the few "hot laps" around the yard. Sunday I will be riding some power lines with a buddy so that will be the true test of highway, back roads and trails to really get a feel for them.

The difference in price would have more than been made up in longevity. Dunlop D606's wear like iron. Not so with the Bridgestones.

I couldn't really find anything on this site about any one using them, so I decided I would be the guinea pig and try them. If this is truly the case well, Ill document it for the next guy and move on the the D606s.

That would be awesome if true. I replaced the whale-tale with a tiny little LED butt-tuck kit the first month I bought the bike back in 2009, and then just reinstalled it a couple of days ago. Thought I had a short somewhere.

Now, I feel like a bit of a dumb-ass, but I just assumed (yes, I know, and it's true) if the fronts worked as running lights, so would the rears.

Basher,

Yeah, I had the manual out to the exact page you posted and was checking voltages/grounds/bulbs, etc. Thanks for the clip.

My smartchain is in the garbage bin at Nelson's Racing in Battle Mountain. My Ti sidewinder front sprocket is in my saddlebags. It was badly hooked as well and I replaced it with a no name brand (unpackaged) they had at Nelsons. I'll post more details in my ride report thread.

I'm curious if anyone knows whether these are DOT approved for DS use. I went to the Motorcycle Superstore website and the product page for the rear ED04 stated that it was "DOT/FIM approved" but the page for the ED03 front tire made no mention of whether it had the DOT rating. Does anyone know?

I've been pretty happy with the 606s, but my source just went up from $60 each to $83 each for the rear and around $72 for the front, so I'm looking around. On my WR-R I'm getting around 2,500 miles of 50/50 riding from the rear 606 and another 500-1000 from the front 606 before they become useless off road and scary on the street.

Indeed it is true.
Most streetbikes, including our WRR, use the front turn signals as running lights but the rears only as turn signals. There are aftermarket kits, for various bikes, to make the rears act as running lights (though I have never considered buying one).

I had this for sale previously, but changed my mind at the last second and reinstalled it. However I have learned in the last two weeks, thanks to two separate conversations with MD state troopers, that one of the ways that my state is attempting to make up for its budget shortfalls is enforcing taillight regulations on motorcycles. Mainly to ensure that the new speed cameras, red light cameras, and toll cameras are able to take a nice picture of your license plate and send you a nice donation form a few weeks later.

Plug and play, works and looks great on the back of the bike. Has the 12 o'clock labs integrated turn signals and flasher board. Mine was repaired and weatherproofed by 12 o'clock labs after drowning it several times last year. Comes with the red and smoked lens. The plate bracket does still mount to the frame, and a license plate will still attach with a little bending. New they're $160, asking $100 shipped.

Thanks



PS the stock taillight is hideous now that the bike is a sumo. But I'd rather be ugly than hassled by the police.
:

I too just pulled my 12 o'clock labs light and I forgot just how big and nasty that stock whale-tail was until I re-installed it a couple of days ago.

It looks much better once you bob it...



No straight-on pictures handy.