so if i convert my headlight to a ddm hid kit headlight my 2 model 44 fogs will not work in the long run???
The longevity of the LED lights when an aftermarket HID light system is hit or miss. Some customers run the lights together without problem. We've had returns where the protection circuit and the leds were literaly blown up due to exposure to high voltage, typically downstream from the igniter box in the HID system. On more than on occasion we've repaired or replaced those lights only to have the exact same thing happen again. My personal experience with HID's is negative. I installed a "high quality" HID system on my Tiger only to have the downstream voltage cause the fuel sensor and the clock to become inoperable, even when the the HID system was removed. While the HID system was installed, I attached my laptop to the ecu, when I powered the bike POOF, the MB was history as well as several other components in the laptop. I'm no expert on HID system's but when a major motorcycle manufacturer begins offering them on their motorcycles they must work, until then we don't warranty any electrical accessory when an aftermarket HID system is installed on the bike. To get to your question: Your lights may work fine. However, down the road when the wire insulation, connectors, etc. downstream from the igniter hav seen a few miles, some uv, maybe a nick or 2, rubbing, etc. it will have a propensity to leak voltage. And that will increase the possibility of failure in not only the LED lights but any electrical part on the bike.
hello, im also interesting of a pair of led light.. can you suggest me something? i want to mount it on my crashbars, i want to use it mostly to the night but also a little bit in the day traffic. Im from greece, is it possible to ship here? im a little bit far...
well this just sucks both my 44s failed today... ugh right after i get my homemade light bar installed too...
Failure of 2 lights at the same time is highly unlikely. Typically this is indicative of a system/wiring issue. Please contact Dave, dave@advmonster.com and he will help you with troubleshooting.
I'd like a pair of the 44s but with the beefier mounts, if already available. I'll hold off my order until then. One other thing. Reference to the wireless light adjuster, I prefer something like a knob so I know where my light volume is in an instant without guessing (esp during daytime so i need not step off the bike). I have seen non-wireless ones but a bit bulky. Would you know of any handlebar-mounted knob-type adjusters available? Send me a PM if you wish.
So the bottom line here is to wire your LEDs directly from the battery, as a stand-alone circuit? I would think that the battery would absorb whatever voltage spikes the HIDs may be throwing... That might be a good thing to keep in mind for doing an HID install as well. If it's isolated, your HID can't fry the ECU or CDI... Thanks for the heads-up. I didn't know HIDs did that.
The voltage downstream of the igniter box is AC, in the neighborhood of 30K volts at very low current. The best way to avoid any issues is leave them off your bike IMO.
What about a clamping device to stop the voltage spikes - zenor diode or similar? (Sounds like I know what I am talking about, but I don't really. However I have all my ex-canbus circuits protected by diode-protected relays for this very reason) viz
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*Due to pricing and quantity these lights will not be a warrantied item. We guarantee that they will be delivered in proper working order* Hesitation factor = high.
About a month ago, I ordered a pair of the Model 30 lights. I received them promptly. (Thank you sanjoh!) I still needed to work out a method to mount them as I own a 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400. It has a lot of great things about it, but isn't designed like a BMW F800GS with lots of places to simply clamp a mounting bracket to. So I kluged together a bracket that attaches to the front fairing plastic and spreads the load out to four bolts, instead of just one. Hopefully, it'll work and not crack. Light output has been perfect for what I need. I ride a 60 mile daily commute in Seattle with a stretch on I-5 from Shoreline to Mt. Lake Terrace that is not lit. In the winter with the rain coming down and the sun long gone, that road surface just sucks up any available light. I wanted a driving light that would be usable in traffic (not blinding anyone), and would extend just past the low beam light pattern. This works. The light pattern is tight enough that both spot lights stay within my lane with little spread outside that location. They are bright enough to be clearly seen on the road, and much brighter where they hit than the H4 low-beam lights. I don't seem to be bothering any other drivers because I've asked, and they said the lights were fine...but they hated HID lights. So these seem to be a winner. Chris
I got a set of the 10 watt lights back in February, and have just ordered a set of these for my son's bike! Good stuff!
One of my two fixed 24W floods died - very little usage, less than 500 miles, no offroad. Been a while since I've looked through this thread...more failures than I'd like to see, even discounting the HID related issues.
