Insert clever airhead based title here ....

And on the subject of inspirational human beings…

Does it matter if my battery negative lead is attached to my frame* rather than the tacho securing bolt on the engine?

* Noting that the frame is stripped at the point of connection.

An Expert Scientist responds: No, it does not matter......but, as we know, Helmut at the
factory (HATF) did design the electrical system to be earthed at the speedo bolt on the gearbox*,
so to be on the safe side, I'd do what Helmut does (DWHD) at all times. You know it makes sense.

*Tacho? Engine? Are you on drugs of some kind? Also, I've been meaning to congratulate you
on the fact that this thread has gone over 200,000 views, but my debilitating ennui has fucked
with my mind somewhat. Also, I forgot to mention that I've had a peachy monetising deal with
the ADV owner, so that I have received a $ for each viewing, which means I'm posting this reply
from my castle in the Alps. Hope you don't mind........

Talk amongst yourselves...

Won't make a spit of difference, Planktonnn.

To accomodate the odd earth post on an Odyssey battery I've had the GSPD's battery grounded to the clutch actuating arm pivot bolt for years.

I bluddy knew it, hand over the 0.0000001% as agreed in the Martha Farquar Motosickle Company articles and we'll say no more about it

WWHD? HATF is of course right in his original placement for the earth strap, which if nothing else allows quick access for emergency battery disconnection, however as is His usual way it only works for almost all eternity if you construct/use & adjust the machine to the designed specification. By not running a speedo cable I'm not securing the end of the speedo cable retaining bolt as intended, in that there is no cable-end there to exert lateral force on the extremity of said bolt, which thru/ough applied grip assists the fine thread in the gearbox in holding the earthing strap in place. I have found that after 149k miles the thread didn't maintain the required load and so stripped a turn or two and didn't provide a secure fixing. This in turn produced a bad earth connection, which meant the bike wouldn't start in the worst of the rain yesterday, a mile or so from 'The Place'. In terms of adjusting all adjustments to HATF specified adjustment ranges, a good example was my experience with adjusting the clutch lever bite point on either of the K75 units I ran.


http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t1271-average-life-of-the-clutch

It sort of went like this - When seeking to bring the clutch bite point of the lever closer to the bar, which was my preference, I deviated from the book recommendations, which in turn caused the actuation pivot arm so sit at a slightly different angle than HATF intended, which in turn loaded the rubber boot slightly differently than HATF intended, which in (another) turn encouraged an early splitting failure of the boot. It's as tho/ough H et al had a mindset that said 'The part operates within the narrow factory defined recommended settings & parameters. Why would anyone want it any other way?!? We have determined the perfect performance envelope!?!'

But I must be wrong, for to do such a thing would be very un-Germanic...


http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/t3795-locating-engine-oil-leak

I'd like to differentiate this small move aways from HATF specs as being 'not the same' as simple inbred mechanical ignorance, and by way of illustration I'll cite the following: I'm pretty sure a vegetable based life-form we know ate a clutch by mal-adjusting it to the point where the spring/plates were always very slightly lifted/never fully engaged and therefore wore out in relatively no miles at all. That sort of deviation is just plain rude... I feel it's a little late to DWHD on the DMW. Of course, re my negative mount, it was as you say the speedo run-off, but I don't use it so therefore confused it with a tacho drive. My unfortunate misidentification is perhaps rooted in the fact I may have been distracted as the thread failed whilst I was riding to get some Tacos. Yes, that is it and there is no other possible explanation.

Well it seemed to me it wouldn't make a difference but I thought it worth a check via the hive mind I had thought about using the same attachment point you mention, as it's more like the original than the position I used, in that it's also on the gearbox as opposed to on the frame end of the right upper battery box mount bobbin. But I was roadside in the pouring sheet rain & I didn't fancy laying in the puddles to get at the clutch arm pivot

As a point of general public notification as to how 'well' I'm doing with my thought processes - No, I didn't try the battery tray end of the rubber bobbin...

"........whilst I was riding to get some Tacos...." quote

Tacos, eh?

Yes, Tacos.

Planktonn, your calling it a tacho was actually correct.

In German, Tacho(meter) refers to the speedometer while the RPM gauge, known in English as a Tachometer, is called a Drehzahlmesser.

I had a bit of a hard time with that when I moved here from Germany oh so many years ago.

Lornce, I believe the ground point on the transmission is to make sure that the engine is directly grounded to the battery for the well being of all the electrical components located on the engine. You side stepped that by still using the transmission, just a different bolt.
If one chooses to use the frame for the negative side of the battery I would strongly recommend a groundstrap from the frame to the engine as well, just to be on the safe side.

I've seen my share of poor running or charging issues on a variety of brands because the engine was not properly grounded, just sayin'.

I have a ground strap from the trans breather bolt to the battery and a second ground strap from the subframe attachment point just above the battery to the same Negative terminal on the battery. Nothing says I can't have two ground straps. On all my vehicles I add an extra or a heavier ground straps.

Car engines are rubber mounted. There is a more critical requirement for these ground straps because it is very likely there will be no good path for electricity to flow because of the extensive use of rubber mounts.

The electricity will always take the shortest and easiest path back to the battery. With our motorcycles the exchange of electrons between the engine and frame is ordinarily very easy, however, there can be corrosion in between the attachment of engine and frame. The mounts may be loose. The flexing of the frame may cause a varying contact situation. An extra path for the electricity makes things easier.

And the German for Taco?

Here in the Former United Commonwealth Kingdoms today has kicked off dry so, unlike the other day, getting under the bike is not like taking a cold bath, and I've therefore been able to take the time to swap the ground from the frame to the clutch arm pivot bolt so as to mimic the tacho* bolt connection onto the gearbox.

I found the alternative fixing point worked to get me 'home' to 'The Place', however at full throttle/high revs the engine was misfiring. There's no way to really know if this was a result of the selection of frame fixing point, or a short somewhere else in the rain-drenched-possibly-chafed loom, or whether it's actually a carb/throttle position problem, so I've taken the trouble to mimic the gearbox connection so as to seek to remove a variable and try & isolate the cause of the misfire problem. Problem is because it's so very loud it's too early to take the bike out for a full throttle/high revs run to find out...


* PJCR12, see post 3049

9 times out of 10 when you think you have a carburetor problem, it is an ignition problem. But vice versa doesn't work this time.

And the German for Taco?


Who knows? Anyone? Eh? EH??

The Germans have never been shy using terms from another lanuage if it suits them, just like the Japanese.
Having said that a rose by any other name is still a rose or in this case a Taco.

Here is the German Wikipidia entry for Taco:

Ein Taco ist ursprünglich eine mexikanische Speise. Er besteht aus einer Tortilla, die nach Belieben mit vielen Zutaten gefüllt werden kann.
In den meisten Fällen wird der Taco mit einer eher scharfen Salsa abgeschmeckt. Tacos werden immer aus der Hand gegessen.

The entry does not offer a translation, sorry. Also, nouns in German are assigned a gender by the indefinite article, and the Taco ends up being male. By it's shape I think female would have been more appropriate...........

Allow me: " A taco is originally a Mexican dish. It consists of a tortilla, which can be filled with many ingredients as desired. In most cases, the taco is flavored with a rather sharp salsa. Tacos are always
eaten out of hand."

https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/D/Daniel_Plankton_c9dc8afd.jpg



Somebody went through a lot of trouble to be able to change the filter with ease after raising the engine.
Any more info on that bike ?



pjcr12: very nice job on the translation, I have to admit I was being lazy by not translating it myself.

I came across it via BMW Boxer Club on Facebook. Not got much info, but a search for 'Ciro Fabbri' or 'Fabbri Ciro' threw up the following?


http://it.paperblog.com/filo-nero-842333/

http://www.subito.it/moto-e-scooter/sogna-bmw-r-45-65-80-100-r-gs-bologna-33221336.htm




http://www.caferacerculture.net/201...bmw-r65-filo-nero-by.html?zx=2759558483a3344c

North Weald: Man in bid to build garden shed

http://www.thisistotalessex.co.uk/N...-garden-shed/story-16812867-detail/story.html