It worked out very well, actually. Last year I went on a similar trip with my pumper carb. Here are the fuel economy differences: Pavement days (high speed, long haul getting to and from the start of the dirt portion): 2011 with pumper carb: 43.70 MPG 2012 with CV carb: 49.31 MPG Dirt days (lower speeds with a lot of variety in throttle position): 2011 with pumer carb: 47.40 MPG 2012 with CV carb: 57.23 MPG On pavement days, I was pretty much just pounding out miles at 60 - 65 MPH. Fuel stations were plentiful and fuel was not an issue. An increase of 6 MPG is certainly appreciated, but it didn't make or break my journey. I'm certainly not going to complain about a 49 MPG average running my DR350 hard all day. On dirt days, I was thrilled to get nearly 10 MPG improvement. With my Clarke tank, that is another ~40 miles of usable range and I never needed to pack extra fuel. My entire goal was to be more efficient so I wouldn't need to pack a gallon of extra fuel. It was great to reach 175 - 180 miles on my odometer and just then go onto reserve with ample fuel to spare. Good stuff! My best economy was 63.42 MPG. That was a dirt day at slower, more relaxed speeds. I'm certain I could get even better economy if I were to be really careful with my throttle and really take it easy. I doubt I'll ever test that, though, as I like to rotate that throttle and go fast (fast for me - I am no racer by any stretch of the imagination). As for performance, the CV carb behaved very well. It took me a bit to get used to it (moving from the pumper), but I am quite pleased with it. I'll likely swap back over to the pumper during the winter months just for giggles. My only complaint was that on "cooler" mornings at higher elevations (~6000 feet plus) that the CV carb would take a long time to warm up first thing in the morning. I suspect the air/fuel screw was set too rich for those conditions and I bet it would have behaved much better had I adjusted it leaner (or perhaps removed the airbox cover to let in more air). Rather than fiddle with it, I just dealt with the sluggish performance until it had warmed up. After that, it didn't matter where I was at (up to the 10,000 feet I saw on my trip), the CV carb worked very well. As for set up, I have an uncut airbox with the original "S" model tube in it. The carburetor is set up with stock jetting and air/fuel screw setting. The muffler is an original, but has been modified by Jesse. Regards, Gregory Bender
Sounds like you got what you wanted. Great record keeping. I don't get much past the mental math at the pump when I fill up. Might try pulling the rubber tube, next trip, from the air box as a compromise. Can't tell it does much, maybe just for noise.
I'm in a strict habit of always writing down the mileage/gallons every stop in my little notebook I keep in my jacket pocket. It is also a good way for me to remember back to a trip I've taken several years ago. Beyond that, they are just scribbles for me :> Regards, Gregory Bender
Hello Gents, Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
That is because 16th front sprockets do not fit under the stock case saver. You either have to remove or grind it out. I have not bought one, but this is the first time I have seen a 16t listed for a dr350. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunstar-Spr...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aba6d84e7&vxp=mtr
Anyone ever try these tires on a DR350? http://www.bikebandit.com/irc-tr8-battle-rally-series-motorcycle-tire They look like a good tire for the kind of riding I like to do (10% pavement, 50% dirt road, 30% 4x4 trails, 10% OHV trails), and the price was right so I ordered some up. Just wondering if anyone here has any experience with them.
I got a new cam chain now and tried to get the old one out but how the hell have you kept the engine from turning over? I tried to search for some instructions but didnt really find anything. Seems really easy anyway. Lower sprocket (and nut, how?) off, then just lift cam shaft + chain out from the top. Is that it? I guess the sprockets need to be in same position they were while removing the old chain Any help for that? Does it matter at what stroke the engine is? Or where the cams are pointing?
I bought a used 1993 stator that happened to have two coils. I had a high of 76.2mpg heading west through Penns-Ohio.
I'm sure you have a manual, so this is just general information that might help. All four cycle motors are the same. When the crank/piston is in the top dead center position ( TDC ), put the cam so that the lobes point away from the lifters/rockers ( at about 45 degrees ) in equal and opposite directions to the outside. The same position they are in when you adjust the valve clearance. There are marks on the crank shaft, cam shaft (or gear ) and on some motors on the cam and/or timing chain ( or belt on some motors ) that must be in the correct position. And at the same time the ignition sensors must be in alignment as well. This is true of multi cylinder/multi cammed motors also. With Diesel motors you have the added timing of the injection pump, but no ignition. Use an air wrench or 1/2" electric impact wrench to loosen tight nuts, or find a safe spot to wedge a tool to keep things from turning.
I bought what I believe to be a 1992 DR350S and I thought I understood that the kickstart bikes have a capacitor. When I took off the panel to look at the air filter, I was greeted by what appeared to be a battery. It is about 2" x 3" x 4" which seems very small. If this is the case, should it not power the headlights (at least for a short time) even when the engine isn't running? I noticed on the ignition switch there are three settings off/on/P now when I turn the key to 'P' it kills the engine. Can someone explain to me this situation, I wonder if it is a battery and it is completely dead that could be part of my issue with really hard starts if the bike sits for longer than a week?
The 90-93 S models have a battery, supposed to be on the left side just behind the side panel. It sounds like someone has replaced it with a smaller battery, I have done the same on mine. It seems like mine runs the same with a fully charged or a dead battery, so I don't think it will help with the hard start issue. The ignition switch "P" position is called park. If your battery held a charge, it would light up your tail light and you can remove the key. Not sure why they make that, but a lot of bikes have it.
In Europe, especially England ( fog ) I think there used to be a law that when you parked on the street you had to leave your park lights ( P ) on.
Wow! Impressive economy! What set up does your 1998 have as far as airbox, muffler, and carb/jets? I can guess from your photo on some of it, but figured I'd better ask for the details. How difficult was it to swap out coils? Regards, Gregory Bender
Stock airbox, jets, exhaust. Mixture screw 3 turns out. Wasnt too hard. Didn't have to replace the whole stator assembly. Just the bad coil.
