New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

BPD... Ordered

Ordered.

Hi guys

I've just flogged my WR250R and am in the market for a new steed with more power at the wheels for some road work. At the moment I'm gunning for a XT660Z Tenere, but the weight is putting me off.

I'm really drawn to the 690R due to it's weight and power, but want to know that as it's a 6 speed box and primarily built as an Enduro bike, are the gears quite tight or can you change the sprockets to cruise at 80mph, but still off road it, i.e. an Adventurized version??

Cheers

They are tight, but not that big a deal, you just won't be lugging it to get to 80.

I like stock gearing for 0 to 100 Mph action

I know you would come round Harty!! welcome to the club of 690'tiez

Just did a long ride around Europe on mine with stock gearing and runs just fine at 80mph on the road. Was thinking about going up a tooth on the front, but in the end didn't. Longest day was just over 500miles with short stops for refuelling. Won't be as comfortable as the Tenere, but a lot more fun

Well it must have been a bad main/starter relay. switched that out and rode it for 1 1/2 hours and it never stalled or shut off. of course it could haver been a loose wire somewher under the seat cause i moved a lot of them changing the relay

My 2011 690 Enduro R has lost a tooth off the countershaft and could still cruise 80mph if you wanted to. with the stock gearing, first was way too high...

Good to hear you're rolling again.

Can I lower the forks below the lid in the clamps?
2-5 mm only was my thought, got 17" wheels on and want to raise the front a little.

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When I first got my 690, I went to a 47T rear. Ifelt that 1st wad too low, and 2nd was too high for some situations. Once I got more comfortable with the bike, and started picking up speed, I went back to stock gearing. Just my .02.

I totally agree. While riding around Colorado last month I wanted to get into second quicker so I got a 14 cs sprocket. My buddy blew his clutch slave so our dirt portion got cut short and we had to slab back from Telluride to Durango. The highway was fine on stock gearing and I don't think it should suffer too much with the 14.

I have 17'' on mine and the front end is down around 30mm from the 12/18 wheels.
I dropped the forks 2-3mm just below the tripples to raise the front.
I guess a rear lowering link is another option.
I'm happy with the way the bike handles like it is

I got a new set of sprockets & chain. I spend much of my time on the road, but didn't want to give up dirt gearing. I got a 3-tooth smaller rear sprocket, a stock 15-tooth sprocket, and a 14-tooth sprocket. It's a 10-minute job to swap out the front sprocket if I want to run dirt gearing.

The gearing is actually so tall that I have to run in 5th under 75 -- it lugs and shudders. It's actually happiest to cruise 85 in 6th now.

Nice, thanks for reply!

I lowered so the lid is just above and already feel the difference.

koubalink would be nice but if your setup works ill stick with that. Just don't want to damage the lid :)

Got Scotts up front so I think ill be fine!

Gents, looking for some advice on a way ahead:

Bike: 2008 690E with 8000kms, I am 2nd owner, mix of road and dirt - not really raced aside from one Sandblast rally; has had regular oil and service. I was knocked down by a "very nice" lady in a BMW SUV a few months ago - insurance and the local KTMdealer shack took care of replacing the clutch case cover as it was punctured by the brake lever. I killed the engine pretty much as soon as I came to my senses after the incident, so do not expect any oil loss damage from this incident. So, I only mention this issue in case someone thinks it may affect what follows below...no other engine work done thus far....I said thus far...

Situation: Did a 250km ride with Flanny et al, and the end of the mayhem, upon slowing to reasonable speeds in the approaches to the city, some seriously funky sounds heard coming from (left?) engine case. Kinda like a slow speed, not totally regular, but heavy clunk/tick sound - changed cadence with engine revs and gear shifting. Removed ear plugs and it sounded even worse Again, not totally regular, but definitely long and slow cadence with some random clunks thrown in for good measure. Initial thought was possibly hydraulic cam chain tensioner failure, and not totally sure of what exactly is from the engine when underway as the drive chain also needed replacing and is making noises. Installed the RR manual cam chain tensioner, new chain, and ran it - same sounds. Emptied oil - and wadda know, two partial spline/gear shards on the magnet. Pics here

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28298127@N02/7712666792/" title="IMG_2852 by jonnykilo, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7712666792_61ce12112b_z.jpg" width="640" height="478" alt="IMG_2852"></a>

Filtered oil for residue, plumbed the engine's every oil orifice with the magnet, and filtered the removed oil - found some more much smaller shards (seen in the pic below). No major sparkly bits in the oil, and no other non magnetic bits. Pulled both side covers off the case, and took off the clutch basket - no evidence of missing splines or teeth or any other loose bits found - drat, now we need to go deeper....

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28298127@N02/7712456052/" title="IMG_2849 by jonnykilo, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8432/7712456052_55c84f3cdb_z.jpg" width="478" height="640" alt="IMG_2849"></a>

Soooooo, I think I am now resigned to splitting the lower case to find the smoking gun, ie - where the missing teeth came from, and to clean the entire engine of residue. This will be an entirely new level of moto work for me. I have some great wrenching mentors I can call on, but none 690 specific. I am thinking of doing this myself as a learning experience with the shop service manual firmly in hand. At this point, I am looking for advice, pointers towards related rebuild threads as I can't seem to find any, and any other comments you may wish to provide on the folly of my endeavour. Anyone see any direct tie-in between the previous accident (replacement of the punctured clutch case cover) and this issue, other than that totally terrible mechanics at the local shop (not likely) left something inside the case?

did you look in the valve train?

is that all steel pieces?

did you look at the starter and sprague and idler

low miles it seems for a major failure unless its been run hard and neglected, and that dont seem the case here

Good questions
-All steel (magnetic) pieces - YES. I added a photo to my post of the initial find of residue on the magnet
-Valve train fine - well inside in spec, if only just slightly on the loose side
-starter and sprague? and idler - where is this, we pulled the clutch basket, and nothing untoward seen in what was visible there

I haven't herd any reports of these engines falling. Maybe a retaining clip inside the motor was knocked by the crash impact, and sprocket come loose over time? If this is the case your insurance might cover repairs? Mabybe worth while keeping the dealer in the loop to verify casue to the insurer?

hi all
can anyone give me a link/fix to the side stand sensor,i was reading one of the other threads that one broke off,and he said he could not loop the wires etc
i would like to do this in the shed and not out in the bush miles from home

thanks mickd