X-Challenge - Accessories/Farkles

hello,


has anyone ever seen brackets that lower the foot pegs for XChallenge? something like 2 or 3" closer to the ground?

thanks
ed

oops two questions in a row....


im thinking of putting a steering damper on to my X, mainly as cheap/easy insurance after last summers trip to NWT/ yukon/ alaska. i found that to float on the pee gravel you need to drive in excess of 100km/h, but this is the double edged sword, when the gravel gets deeper the front has a tenancy of flipping back and forth causing many ass puckering moments, few of them i reached that feeling that i knew i was going down..... some how, lady luck felt different...

way out in the middle of no where, it would be along walk back after high siding it, if a steering damper will help situations like this, then i see it as cheap insurance.....

i have been trying to read as many posts regarding dampers, im not interested in the welding approach to the neck anchor post. and unless im mistaken... it seems that scotts is the way to go.

so i guess my question here is...
any suggestions as to where to find a bolt on neck anchor thingy that will work/ fit the X, not knowing if the outer diameter of the steering hub is different from other bikes (im on the other side of the planet away from my X, so i cant simply measure it right now)...

cheers
ed


ps, maybe someone out there has just what im looking for and is interested for it (damper and anchor post thingy) to find a new home.... just a thought

The only damper made specifically for the X is by Emig Racing. Replaces the top triple clamp and clamps to the top of the frame.

Unless you are made of money there are other Xch specific options that work


I used to use a Gorillazilla mount with a scotts unit on my X-challenge which is made specific for the Xch. When I bought mine for the kit without the scotts it was 1500rand which was about $175CAD shipped to Ontario. I had a scotts off an old dirt bike laying around that I used instead of getting a new one. Here is a photo of the kit when i sold it without the bar clamps (they were still on the bike)



Everything is machined out of aluminium and is good quality and install is a breeze. The post is bolted around the stem right below the top triple, and it is machined to fit just above the steering stops. The kits come with replacement bar clamps and hardware for mounting the actual dampening unit.
I sold the complete kit on here after I installed a Ohlins and got my forks reworked. The suspension work made the bike a lot more predictable but cost a lot more than the GZ setup I was using.
Here is the guys e-mail. I had a few dealings with him and besides the fact he is on the other side of the globe he is fast with replies, shipping, and has all the answers
dave@gorillazillaproducts.com

Any questions shoot me a PM, and I think you have my e-mail address in your inbox too Pinesol.
You still in China?

Rallemoto also makes a bolt on kit.i had the gz kit first and broke it. I also bent the rallemoto post too.had to order another one.the bolt ons are not that strong .if you try to turn a stationary bikes bars with the settings up you will bend the post. Turn it down after every ride. I warn you first.

Good find. Is it a sub mount or an over-the-bars mount?

You really need a sub mount system and you have to be careful due to the rubber mounted bars on the X bikes. I've taken up replacing the bar riser bolts when I get home from a ride that involved a good crash.

i did find this
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6071823&postcount=430

its old now, but he did use a post anchor thingy for a 2000 ktm 640 adventure....
there is hope


it does work,

I run the Emig, it's a great fit and the post height is very short which is a good thing.

Mine bent during trailering.

Do you use OEM or Hardware store bolts?
For the life of me, I can't seem to get the stock nuts to break free, any suggestions?
Thanks!

You probably bent the bolts in the bar risers. Take the top clamp off and take it to a machine shop. I also have an extra top clamp and bar risers if you need them.

To tie the bike down for trailering, grab the lower triple clamp only, not the handlebars.

Wow, the bolts aren't undoable? what do I have the machine shop do to them? Cut the bolts above the nuts?

I'll give the alternative tie down point a try this year. PM sent.

Hope this doesn't violate any rules... I have a X-Challenge Touratech tank for sale in the FM:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845078

Not my prettiest job but....

Since I have moved job and am using the bike for a 100 mile round trip commute in the dark it was time to improve on the current set up.







Some of you may note that it is slightly larger and more upright than my original screen. It is pretty good for weather protection but the stock candle was really not up to the job. Just about workable on the dual carriageway when surrounded by other cars but as soon as I get on to the unlit local roads the, by now muddy, headlight is hopeless. Time to upgrade then.

I looked at LED auxiliary lighting but rejected this as more light is not enough. OK for off road but, for road riding, it is also important to shine it in the right places to avoid annoying other road users.

A couple of PM's back and forth and a late Christmas present arrived from Colebatch. An FXR projector with a 35W HID.

First job - Seal the unit. As they are designed for cars they are not weather proof. The gaps down each side are easily sealed with a bead of silicone. The gap at the top required a small plate while the bottom needed a box to enclose the solenoid for the hi/lo shutter. The metal is stainless sheet rescued from an old cooker hood - thanks Mark. It was easy to cut with snips. I'm using No More Nails weather-proof. You can also see the small hinges I attached with pop rivets to mount the unit. The bottom one to hold it and the top one for adjustment.





Next it was time to mount the unit. Mark came to the rescue again with some alloy sheet. Cut with a hacksaw blade in a jigsaw and bent in a vice. Attachments are the same as the standard headlamp so I can swap it back for dirt riding.



The screw above the lamp is for beam adjustment



A bit mad max, and that is before I connected it all up.

I need a bit of weather protection though....

There is plenty of space for the electrical gubbins though, although I still need to zip tie the cables to tidy then up. Wiring is a mixture of the ballast that came with the bulb from HID50.com and wiring from an earlier attempt with an H4 hi/lo HID bulb - it uses a diode to keep the bulb fired up when the main beam is triggered. I could make it a lot tidier by removing some of the connectors, such as the H4 bulb connector and soldering instead but would not be able to swap back to standard quickly.





The screen was trimmed with the jigsaw and a fine toothed blade. Don't use the hacksaw blade as it does not remove enough plastic and it melts back together. Needs a bit more work, particularly around the indicators but a bit at a time as yuio can't stick it back on if you take too much.

I ordered a few of the M5 C-clips as used by BMW to hold the top of the stock headlight. I want to pick up a couple more as the screen is currently only held by 2 bolts.

....and somewhere to mount the heating controls



Not the prettiest job but the weather protection works and the lighting... Let's just say that I never want to ride a bike at night again unless it has similar lighting. It gives a better beam pattern and more light than most cars on the road.

Still needs a couple of finishing touches - I will probably spray the alloy matt black to blend it in a bit and add some LEDs for the side light since I have the main beam switched.



And the screen - not made by me obviously, an ebay purchase. Originally from a 950 adventure.


Before you say it; I know, my shed needs a tidy.

Hi I've got complete rear wheel with sprocket and brake disc etc.

If some body interested I can send pictures just write me an e-mail on bronikowski.andrzej@gmail.com or private message.

To the Jester, thank god for someone else that has a garage that is like mine(i know where everything goes), oh and the screen looks good.

Jester,

how does your speedo and trips work with hids? Do you have pic about ballast and where is it located?
I haven't yet found way how to assembly hids without getting serious trouble with bikes speedo.

I know the problem you mean, the lamp flashes and the clocks go blank. With my first hid install (h4 hi/lo) I had this when I first switched on the ignition and after that, every time I had left the main beam on when the ignition was off. If I left it on low beam it was okay. I think it was something to do with the solenoid for high beam allowing the capacitors in the ballast to discharge. After a while it started tripping the clocks all the time.

With the new ballast it is back to only tripping when left on high beam.
The ballast is mounted on the back of the alloy plate with velcro but I don't believe it is down to mounting it too close as I had it mounted there without any problems using a second battery to power the light. This suggests it is likely to be a spike going through the wiring. I might try a car radio rf suppressor on the lamp wiring.

hi i have just bought a Xc and have ordered the TT fuel tank and the TT large bashplate.
Can i still fit engine protection bars and who and where can i get some?
cheers al

With the big TT bash plate, you won't need the lower BMW crash bars, plus the big TT tank support is the radiator guard with supports for the front of the TT tank.

Ya, I have both and that sums it up nice. :)