Which number? Because on this parts diagram there are only two diaphragms, assemblies #39 and #40, so there shouldn't be a problem.
The IT nazis here at work won't let me open your link, but it's probably the same fiche everybody else has (which I think is really for the TT, not the XT). I think the 39 your refering to is about the coasting enricher. What I need is the larger diaphram on the vacuum piston. The (hopefully) attached photo is from the manual. I think mine is fine. I'm just replacing because it's ten years old. But I can't sort the p/n. Thanks.
I am looking for a set of forks for a XT350. Please email if you have some to sell. Also need a front brake disc. Thanks, TJ
According to the fiche diagram you can't buy just the diaphragm, but the whole valve assembly The part number is 30X-14340-01. Let's see if attaching the picture works...
For the forks check ebay, there should be something useful on. If you're on to replacing the brake disk, don't buy the stock one but a Braking one - much better performance (one piece steel disc instead of the stock alu/steel combo) + it's cheaper than the original. Here's the link (original Braking site - italian): http://83.211.94.164/catalogo/bk/catalogo/template.asp?cp=333&id_prod=1989&id_modello=1&id_tip=1 and BrakingUSA: http://brakingusa.com/searchresults.aspx?ProdNum=YA01FI You can see that the part number is the same on both links, so no problems there :)
It comes with the whole valve, its part number 40. Its a pricy part but the bike ran like a million bucks with a new one so it was worth it.
jegrmajstr: In my manual, that drawing is labeled for the TT carb. It's what's on all of the parts-house fiches I've seen, whether XT or TT. The attached is the correct blowup of the XT carb, as described in my repair manual. The problem is that this doesn't tell the part number. StuckXJ: Okay, I was wondering how that rubber stuff came off. Guess it doesn't. Damn. (Doesn't the TT also have this rubber diaphram? Or is it really the close-tolerance piston pup shown in all the parts fiches?)
nails1: You're right, I just went through Clymer and the two carbs are different You can still try and open the carb to see what's in it: the diaphragm valve or just the tight-fitting piston pup (#6 in Clymer diagram - vacuum piston). But still, in the disassembly procedure there is no noted difference between the secundaries... go figure:huh
Besides the secondary throttle valve design, the TT carb has adjustable needles and different needle/nozzle combo. This is what I understand, anyway. I've never been into a TT carb. My XT definitely has the rubber diaphram and non-adjustable needles (and precious little room for shims). Thanks.
I think this will be very useful to all, so here's a list of all the aftermarket stuff I found so far for the XT 350: - Suspension: Wilbers makes both the rear shock and progressive front springs - very good, very expensive. Wirth has progressive fork springs - also expensive. - Brakes: Braking has a front disk - very good and cheaper than the original. A variety of brake pad manufacturers (Carbone Lorraine, EBC, Saito, Lucas...). There are stainless steel brake lines available (Lucas), but the cheapest way to get them at a local hydraulics shop - tried and tested :) - Engine Wiseco and Wössner sell piston kits (Wiseco also has a high-compression piston) I'm not sure for cams. Lucas and EBC make clutch friction pads and springs. There are also High-Flo (and other manufactorers) oil filters available. - Exhaust There are a couple of manufacturers that have exhausts for the XT 350: Supertrapp, Sebring and Marving, but with a bit of DIY you can make any other enduro silencer fit, there's just a connecting pipe to be made. - Gas tank Clarke has a plastic tank, but not much bigger than the original. Acerbis makes tanks for XT 600 and 400, both 20l (perhaps an early '90-'94 XT 600 tank would fit?) - Carburetor & air intake I don't know if larger jets are considered aftermarket. K&N and UNI make air filters. - Drivetrain There are chain sets available by DID and Regina, and also sprockets by RK, Sunstar and DID. - Other: Hepco&Becker makes a luggage rack for side cases. Renthal has handlebars. Acerbis has handguards. MotoDetail sells oil temperature gauges. Lots of different indicator manufacturers. Found a centre stand on ebay once, but forgot the manufacturer. If someone else has anything more, just add it on.
guys, I have found an 85 xt 350 here in FL for 1000 bucks. I have not went and looked at it yet but they say it is in great shape. Should have pics tomarrow. I have a Transalp already and I am just looking for a small bike to putz around more off road on. I know the parts availability issues seem to be a problem but overall how dependable are these bikes and what kind of things can I look for when I go look at it that are bike specific. Thanks
1000 is a bit too much for a '85, even if it's in a great shape... I don't know what do you mean with availability issues, because OEM parts are available at every Yamaha dealer, at least that's how it's here in Europe (and the XT 350 wasn't even sold in my country, but no problems with parts whatsoever). Aftermarket for the XT 350 isn't that good, but you can get some stuff (most of it listed above). When you go and look at the bike listen to any weird noises coming from the cylinder head (I they are there, leave the bike) and if there are oil leaks at the gaskets, make sure that the bike starts, idles and revs ok, and check also if there is any delamination of the intake boots (common problem with the XT, especially older ones), ask if the bike has any service history (not likely, but it helps). Apart from those minor thins, the bike is quite solid and reliable (forks are crap though, but one can live with them), as long as you keep clean oil in, check the valves regulary and don't overheat it, it'll run forever.
So I noticed my yamaha service manual for the xt350n/nc (with h/hc supplement) states the primary carbjet as 125, and secondary as 106, and I'm seeing folks bringing those closer. Mine is stock as far as I know(exept for the plug over the pilot screw) and my mid range seems fine and my topend actually seems a bit rich on warm days (I get a brief surge just as I reduce throttle on the freeway or could that be the coasting enrichment and I am actually too lean? I'll try it on a cold day) My low throttle end seems a bit lean and I get the usual idle hickups though. It's tollerable in the summer but getting worse now as fall creaps in. I'm near sea level, hmmmmmm... Just thinking. Anyway I tried the 47t then the 50t tooth sprocket and... well I need a chain breaker [and another connector link or two if I ever want to go back] The 47t uses 4 rollers less chain than the stock 55t, and the 50t uses 2.5 rollers less than stock, but we only have at most ~3 rollers of adjustment(axle max forward to max rearward is 3/4inch maybe 7/8)
ever read how people say shit about the air scoops? Like, "I took off those stupid fake radiator covers" or "Whats with the air scoops that do nothing?" Well not everyone with a keyboard can be reel smrt. No, they arn't functioning ramjet intakes or hiding a radiator, but they do look like they do a pretty damn good job of funnelling cool air over the head you morons, it don't take no 20/20 ta see dat.
Don't mind the morons, those of us who have a bit of knowledge about bikes know why are there even the most 'stupid and uncool' things :) I think the bike would overheat a lot more if there were no scoops, so they're staying even if they're 'fake' Had anyone tried to install a small, high-performance fan inside the scoops? It would surely help the engine keeping a cool head in traffic. I'm considering of mounting one myself, and so far I found two options: taking a pair of an existing 12V computer fans and modify them to fit inside the scoops (one on each side), or taking two small high-rpm electric motors and connecting them each to a separate fan + making a custom cowling to fit inside the scoops. Everything would then be wired to the battery via a switch to turn them on and off when necessary. I think I'll be tinkering with this during the winter, if I end up with something that works I will post it here with DIY instructions :)
+1 I even relocated my horn to get better airflow through the right one. Mine have taken quite a beating and the left is held on by zip ties, but if you stick you're hand down there, you can feel the extra air movement. That being said, I recently removed mine as an experiment to see if I would get better milage. It's getting colder now so I'm not woried about heat. First morning without it was around 50 deg F out and It felt like someone put icepacks on my knees. My conclusion is... Yes, The bike will be more aerodynamic, but only as long as there isn't anyone on it. I'm putting them back on.
These were people who reveiw bikes and or regularly work on them. Things I've read on the web. It's all true and in high regard you know. Anyhow carb tinkering is higher on the list for my bike at the moment, right behind replacing the rear tire and changing the sprocket size. (But still below some pressing obligations, stupid stupid non-wheeled things.)
I miss my bike, I think it was an 89, I rode it on and offroad all through the rocky mountain divide of canada, switch backs up thousands of feet to glaciers and down steep shale slopes. hitting wash out gearing down into second, and launching out the other side, I would land on my rear tire, power wheeely land and then gear back up until then next washout! absolutly, an awsome bike! it was a bit underpowered for the highway but i loved in on the trails!