Pennzoil safe for wet clutch?

Any reason for me not to use Pennzoil 10-40 for my first oil change (Super Tenere).

http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-conventional/#Specifications

I checked the API donut and it doesn't say 'energy conserving' so I assume it is safe for wet-clutch bikes.

Autozone has 5.5 qts jug plus the Bosch 3300 filter for $24.

I'll switch to full synth at 2K, but I like to run dino for break in.

I'd do it. I've run many different types of 10w40 dino oils in my wet clutch HD primary with no problems.

For the love of all that's sacred, why wouldn't you use a MOTORCYCLE specific oil and be sure the anti-wear addatives your EXPENSIVE engine needs are contained therein? :huh You'd seriously skimp on $10 difference in the price of 4 qts. of oil for a $15,000 bike? http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx Dino is NOT NEEDED for break-in any longer. Modern cylinder bores are finely finished, ready to roll.

So I guess the reason for you not to use that oil is that your bike is sacred.....

i would use a motorcycle oil for sure, i feel a lot better with the additives in the mc oil for you cam and rockers. i used car oil in one of my bikes and changed the oil every 1,000 miles and the cam and rockers were shot at 40,000 miles. dont know if it was the regular oil but it was enough for me to pay the extra 2 dollars per oil change form now on.

The answer to your whine is that Delo 400 and Rotella T work just dandy in MOTORCYCLE powerplants. They already have the right additives to keep gearboxes and wet clutches happy. About 10 bucks a gallon, so you'll save more than 20 clams, not 10.

Seriously.

It will be fine. I've run Castrol dino 10-40 in both of my bikes at one point.

However -- I switched to synthetic motorcycle oil because both bikes shift a LOT better with it in there. The shifting was crunchy and clunky and imprecise running generic dino oil. I'd consider using motorcycle oil just for that if I were in your shoes. But if you can't afford it at the moment, the Pennzoil will not hurt anything.

I'd bet that the oil in question does have friction modifiers (bad for wet clutch) since it is rated API "SN". If you're going to use a automotive oil, use a diesel oil. One with a "C" as the first letter of it's rating. The Delo 400 and Rotella fall into this class since they are diesel oils.

I was under the impression you "should" use an oil that is JASO certified at minimum for your bike with wet clutch.

If the API logo says energy conserving that will have the friction modifiers. If the field is empty it doesn't.

Apparently this has changed recently with the introduction of the SN API type.

I beleive that anything into the 40's weight will be fine. Conventional or syn.

"I beleive that anything into the 40's weight will be fine. Conventional or syn"
True. The stuff-that-is-to-be-feared is NOT used in 40 wt and higher.

Yep...most oils containing energy conserving friction modifiers (or whatevs) are used in x-30 weights and below. This is a big part of the reason almost all new cars these days specify a 5-30 or 5-20 oil -- to cut operating friction and eke out more fuel mileage!

YMMV...

Not always true..........when this came up prior it was found that 15w-50 Mobil 1 had friction modifiers as per Mobil tech support and not suitable for wet clutches.

Rotella T meets Jaso Ma certification and is 13$ a gallon at wal-mart. can't go wrong.

Except for the whole Wal Mart thing. Just walking in that place makes me want to murder entire villages.

You don't have to murder them, then buy from Walmart and they will work them to death.

Well crap, I just bought three quarts of.......... you guessed it, Mobil 1 15w-50wt full on by gawd synthetic oil for my KLR!

AND of course I bought the junk at Walmart. Damn, I suck. I swear I'm going to buy freaking Wesson oil and run that in the

KLR. No stickers telling me I can't. This oil thing had gotta go. The gas we buy is crap, there are 10,0000 bottles of oil

on the shelf and I buy the one that CAN't be run in a freaking KLR!!!!!!!!!!

Ive run this oil for about 10,000 miles now, in a high HP '10 TE450 Husky, with zero clutch slipping. I've outrun the newer 511 in a drag race. I run this oil in my Versys with no clutch slipping. When the new 5w50 synthetics come out, I will be running those, if they are $5 a quart.