Not just the UK, we also use that phrase in the US. Really like the Pirelli MT21 myself, but they do wear quickly if you put on lots of road miles.
Not much help after the fact. I found the trail wings a reasonable dual sport tyre with decent road performance and longevity. I also currently have MT21's but riding is mostly bush and they do wear quick on the road. Noisy too. YMMV
I use the Mefo MFE99 as I'm off around the World next year and I think these will get me to the USA/Canada where I will probably put Kendas on. The Kendas are not available in the UK. I'm very impressed with the Mefos at the moment but I wouldn't go above 120kph on them as it tends to weave a bit. The wear and grip levels are very good and I think they'll cope with Mongolia, the BAM road and a Road of Bones. See www.joatmoa.com and click on Round the World.
Check over on the Hubb (Horizons Unlimited) in the Tech under Yammy. I got mine from there for my 91. Cheers
HI ANDY, It is the tank from ACERBIS white? Or you painted self.:huh It is possible to lock the lid? There is one chamber or two?
It's a white Acerbis tank which I bought second-hand with only 100 miles of use. It was ultra clean inside with no petrol staining. The tank has the Acerbis lockable filler cap and it is one complete chamber. There are 2 taps so when the fuel gets low you can drain both sides out. The quantities appear to be as follows... Tank = 24.3 litres Reserve on LH Side = 1.4lts Reserve on RH Side = 1.3lts Total Reserve = 2.7lts Fuel remaining in tank when Reserve is emptied out = 1.2 lts (0.6lts in each side. The front of the tank is lower than the tap positions. This makes the tank a 23 litre tank NOT 24lts. I'm happy with this as there are two XT600s and 2 DR650s going on the trip so in a really bad case scenario where we all run out of fuel, the XTs will have 2.4lts of fuel to tip into one of the DRs.
I've got the same white acerbis 23ltr tank and have been able to fill 24.7ltrs in mine when it was just about on fumes.
Hi JensEskildsen When I did the exercise, to see what my tank held, it was at room temperature as the bike was in a heated garage. You filled up, presumably, from a Filling Station where the fuel would have been colder and therefore you would get more in. In Mongolia the fuel is, quite often, stored above ground and is therefore warmer. The capacity of the tank will be less with warm petrol. The MotoGP teams store their fuel in a freezer before filling their bikes thus allowing more fuel into their restricted fuel capacity bikes. As seen on the BBC MotoGP prelude last weekend.
Has anyone here run heated grips on their XT600? I am considering it and want to know if the electrical system can support grips or other heated gear. What available amps are there? Dual Star's grips apparently draw 36 watts on high setting. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Rider/heated_grip_kit.htm
I got my 1986 XT back together and running today .The throttle is very stiff and doesn't close on it's own,I have to manually roll it off.Is something out of adjustment? Also,even after rolling off the throttle,when I pull in the clutch,the engine continues to run fast for a few seconds before RPMs drop back to idle speed.What can cause that?
Congratulations on your successful reassembly. When I got my low-miles German imported XT600, I had cable issues you might relate to. First and most noticeable was the sticky throttle. It ended up being a paper adhesive label still affixed to the handlebars, all I had to do was remove the twistgrip and clean the bars off. Yours might have a throttle cable gummed up instead. Second, I had a severely gummed up clutch cable. When i removed it from the bike, i would have to pull extremely hard to get the cable to move inside the housing. It took hours of spraying it with penetrating lubricants of 2 different kinds before it freed up and moved back and forth like a cable should. Once I got these two cables movement freed up, it was a night-and-day handling improvement; no more hard bucking when I would pull the clutch in in 1st gear at low speeds; the bike would rather smoothly disengage, and with the throttle cable, no more lingering throttle, it only acellerated and let of when I told it to. Long story short, make sure all your control cables are functioning smoothly, it makes a big difference. IMHO.
^ good ideas. Also check your carby linkages. Problems you describe may be related. Good luck and post a pic
Alright! I finally found a camshaft for my XT for a fair price and bought it up. The XT hasn't been my top project priority lately but I've been plugging away at it slowly. I had the motor all the way apart and recently put it back together with a new piston and bore, and cam chain. I didn't have a good cam so the progress hit a standstill for a while. Everyone on ebay either wanted $100-$200 bucks for a good used cam, or they wanted $40 for an unusable, scored up mess. Well, one finally came up on the block yesterday that looks to be in good shape and for a good price. Once it gets here in a few days I can finally get the motor all the way together.
We have a XT 1992 and 1999 and made a few adjustments. see our equipment page http://www.trailtosakhalin.com/file/7/7/210/equipment.html
That has me excited... so where and how should i connect it, and using a relay or no? Also, with all that wattage, does this mean I could possibly also have a heated jacket? That would rule. Looking for something thin for inside the aerostich.
Hi Zombie Stomp Before you get all excited about your fabulous output from the alternator you need to consider the following... The engine needs 35 watts to run or 3 Amps The headlight, if it's an H4 bulb, is 55w or 4.6 Amps The instrument lights (on when you have the lights on) are 3.4w each and there may be 4 of them = 13.6w or 1.13 Amps The tail light is 5w or 0.42 Amps the brake light is 21W or 1.75 Amps The indicators (only on for a short while obviously) are 21w each with a 5w instrument panel light = 47w or 4 Amps You've just fitted heated grips that are 36W or 3 Amps (less than a pair of moulded ones and nowhere near as warm - I've had both types) So, if your engine is running and you have your lights on whilst braking and indicating you're using 176.6w or 14.72 Amps - your generator is roughly 187w if it's the same as mine, an 600E 2003. If your heated grips are on then you will be running a deficit until you knock off your indicators and brake lights. I'm fitting a front CREE LED lamp that draws 10w or 0.83 Amps so I don't have to run with my headlight on when traversing Europe, Asia, Alaska and Canada next year. Then I can run my 40w heated waistcoat as well as my 50w heated grips. I have already cut down my energy usage by fitting a 35w HiD headlight unit which is 3 times brighter than the H4 and uses 20w less on dip and 25w less on main beam. :huh