Yes, The sensor is in the long line that comes out the bottom of the engine, it goes up and into the cooler, then out the cooler is a short pipe that goes into the frame just below the filler cap, As I then see it there is a short line near the bottom of the frame that goes into the engine There are 2 pipes that go into the engine, the long one and a short one, my understanding is that the short one feeds from the frame tank into the engine I am as confused here with the temperature readings as can be Unfortunately I am not close to the bike now, so will get some pictures later
well after 15 years I sold my BMW R100GS PD, it was time for a change, after searching the web and comparing cycles, with the help of the dealer giving me a price I wanted I am now the owner of a 2012 XR650L, I just wanted to introduce myself as I get more into dual sport riding (taking it easy at first). So anyone in the Albany, NY area that could suggest some rides I'd appreciate it. thanks
As far as Lex's rewiring the R/R in a more direct fashion, he is not the only one. It is a big mod for Triumph Tiger pre 07s for more watts. I haven't done it to my 06 Tiger because at it last service I had the dealership test it and said it was well within specs. I know electrical parts don't slowly die out, but usually work perfectly until you are in the middle of now where and just go puff. But didn't see the need at the time. It very well may get done on the Tiger and XRL when I electrical skills get better.
make friends here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672160 here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752912 and here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628256&page=1249 we're a quirky bunch but harmless (well most of the time).. You will find plenty of rides and events throughout the year
You might want to compare with Spud's set up and readings http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781962&page=5
Best Advice ever, I am actually going through it again and making a file with links for myself for future reference
Sounds like a calibration issue. Put both sensors in boiling water and see what the difference is. They may read claose at a lower temp.
The alternator always puts out max power (since the L has a permanent magnet alternator), what the bike doesn't need gets dumped by the regulator as heat. A smaller regulator would just cook itself trying to dissipate the power. The upside to a permanent magnet alternator is you can bump-start with a dead battery or no battery.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451212 It died when Raven sold her bike. She was the driver and only one who could edit it. I seem to remember some upset/dispute she got into and then disappeared. It would be a big help to new folks but a huge undertaking to accomplish. John
Digital oil temperature gauge! I got a bolt the same size as the stock dipstick screw, drilled a hole through it, and used a high range digital meat thermometer as the dipstick. I used JB Weld to secure it there and threw on an o-ring on the bolt, and poof. I now can tell how hot my bike is running at all times.
Here's a link to a bunch of websites and such that I've collected in modding my XRL http://ridedualsport.com/forum/index.php?topic=2038.0
there are a few of use who have switched over to a Mosfet R/R, it's supposed to be more efficient and run cooler, one of the reasons I switched to it, I run heated gear and wanted more power, "A smaller regulator would just cook itself trying to dissipate the power." true but It turns out that the heavier the load, the cooler it runs which makes sense because the power is going to the draw rather then getting turned into heat.
