The 'No Pissin and Moanin' DR650 Thread

Emmbeedee · Sep 25, 2012

ER70S-2 said: ↑

We have our own Loctite Wizard here, dirty_sanchez:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016
Click to expand...

He's a "Henkeler"! Comes by his Loctite Wizard credentials honestly.

Emmbeedee · Sep 25, 2012

Bronco638 said: ↑

I fired off a request for information to Loctite explaining my situation. When/if they reply, I'll post their response. I suppose I could always get some 620 off of you, if necessary.......
Click to expand...

I'll put some in an envelope for you.

Bronco638 · Sep 26, 2012

ER70S-2 said:

We have our own Loctite Wizard here, dirty_sanchez:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016
Click to expand...

Yes! That's right, I will PM Dirty for his $0.02.

Emmbeedee said:

I'll put some in an envelope for you.
Click to expand...

You're the best!

Response from Loctite:
 Thank you for your inquiry. For a tight fit (.005" gap or less), Loctite 609 is a good general purpose retaining compound. It has a shear strength on steel of about 3000 psi. If you'd like something stronger and can put heat and force on it to remove if required, try 680 instead.

Please contact our Technical Information department at (800) 562-8483 if you'd like to discuss this further.

Henkel Loctite recommends that you test all new adhesive applications under simulated or actual end use conditions to ensure the adhesive meets or exceeds all expectations. Since assembly conditions may be critical to adhesive performance, it is recommended that testing be performed on specimens assembled under simulated or actual product conditions.

Bronco638 · Sep 26, 2012

My follow-up:
Thanks for the reply.

I don't know if you know much about motorcycles, but the product I am looking for would need to work in an aluminum alloy hub (sorry, I do not know the alloy). This hub is no longer a press fit (as it would have been originally). I was able to remove the bearing, from the hub, with a few light taps from a hammer. Previous to removal, I could move the bearing, axially, with my fingers but there did not seem to be any radial play.

I did do some research on your web site. I came up with Loctite 641.

If you think this is something better discussed with a tech, I'll be happy to call Technical Information.

Second response (from Loctite):
In general, strength to aluminum is slightly lower than strength to steel, but all of our retaining compounds can be used on aluminum. Loctite 641 would be considered a "repairable strength" retaining compound. It is weaker than any I suggested. The maximum diametral gap fill of the 641 is .008". Given your description of the fit, I think you're well within that gap. The 641 is not thin enough to wick into the bond joint after assembly, so you'd want to apply a bead to the leading edge of both parts before tapping them together. That way, you won't scrape all of the sealant off.

So, right now I'm leaning towards 609 but I also may call the tech line to see what they say (not that I don't trust this information). I also have a PM in to dirty_sanchez.

UPDATE:
dirty_sanchez says the retaining compounds are very strong. So, go from the weakest to the strongest:
641 >> 609 >> 620 >> 603

Chances are, you will need a slide hammer or bearing press to remove the bearing once it's worn. Some heat will help as well. Since this is a cush hub, applying heat and using a press (or slide hammer) should not be an issue. Big thanks to dirty for replying to my PMs.

SBG · Sep 26, 2012

Ok, manual says find TDC with timing mark in window. Now, it seems there are two positions where timing mark is in the window, one where the valves are mobile, and one where they appear to have more pressure. Someone made a you tube video showing that he checked the clearance when the valves are mobile. My question is, if they have so much room to be lifted above the recommended gauge heights, then how do you know when you put any feeler gauge under the lifter that it's not putting pressure and elevating it out of spec?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHjHIXxoIew

Mongle · Sep 26, 2012

SBG said: ↑

Ok, manual says find TDC with timing mark in window. Now, it seems there are two positions where timing mark is in the window, one where the valves are mobile, and one where they appear to have more pressure. Someone made a you tube video showing that he checked the clearance when the valves are mobile. My question is, if they have so much room to be lifted above the recommended gauge heights, then how do you know when you put any feeler gauge under the lifter that it's not putting pressure and elevating it out of spec?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHjHIXxoIew
Click to expand...

The timing mark goes by the window twice in a "cycle" Just remember a 4 stroke: intake (down stroke), compression (Up stroke), power (down stroke), exhaust (Up stroke). You want the timing mark on the compression stroke. Easy way to verify when adjusting valves is to watch the intake valves. Watch them open- then close and when the timing mark comes up you will be on the compression stroke. Just remember to turn it the correct direction for this procedure to work.

As for using feeler guages it is a "feel" thing. You can overwhelm the spring and push it open. I usually use two guages (.001" apart). I get one that feels a slight drag and one with a heavy drag. Your actual measurement will be close to between the two. If you need plyers to pull out the feeler guage you are doing it wrong. You should be able to slide it back and forth while between the rocker and valve stem without flexing the feeler guage too much. It is also important to have the feeler guage square with the valve tip or you will get a tight feel.

SBG · Sep 26, 2012

Mongle said: ↑

Watch them open- then close and when the timing mark comes up you will be on the compression stroke. Just remember to turn it the correct direction for this procedure to work.
Click to expand...

I've got the direction correct, I just wanted to make sure I had the compression stroke right. Thanks.

Emmbeedee · Sep 26, 2012

SBG said: ↑

I've got the direction correct, I just wanted to make sure I had the compression stroke right. Thanks.
Click to expand...

It's actually difficult to turn it in the wrong direction and easy to turn it in the right direction.

And if you're adjusting the valves, you might want to make up this valve holding tool from a Robertson screw and a wine cork. Unless you can't find Robertson screws in your part of the world...

Mongle · Sep 26, 2012

Emm,

Another trick i've learned over the years. It is hard to get a good feel with the whole stack of feeler guages. Take the ones out you are using. I also bend the guages about 3/4 of an inch back at a 45 degree angle. This helps get them in square and keeps them from runnning into other things.

Emmbeedee · Sep 26, 2012

Mongle said: ↑

Emm,

Another trick i've learned over the years. It is hard to get a good feel with the whole stack of feeler guages. Take the ones out you are using. I also bend the guages about 3/4 of an inch back at a 45 degree angle. This helps get them in square and keeps them from runnning into other things.
Click to expand...

Good ideas. In the case of the DR, it's almost impossible to do it properly without bending the feeler gauge. These are the tools I use:

SBG · Sep 26, 2012

Mongle said: ↑

Emm,

Another trick i've learned over the years. It is hard to get a good feel with the whole stack of feeler guages. Take the ones out you are using.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remove the ones I want, from .003 - .005. I was thinking of bending them too. I'll probably do that tonight.

vintagespeed · Sep 26, 2012

took the DR on a little putt putt. other than the ignition getting soaked and misfiring for a couple days, all was good.

she's over 32k miles now.

kobukan · Sep 27, 2012

I have an 8.3kg rear spring in the flea market if anyone's looking. It was too stiff for me so I replaced it with a 7.5kg.
Link

guzzirelic · Sep 28, 2012

Just thought I'd drop in and say that I've got no reason for "pissin" or "moanin" about my DR. I've been thinking about one of these bikes for three years and finally purchased my 2006 from an ADV inmate back in June. I really enjoy this bike!
P.O. had added the engine guards, skid plate, rear rack, fender bag and saddlebag guards- all from Pro Cycle. He gave me the oem seat along with the Suzuki gel seat (on the bike in the photos).
I added a large tool tube, Wolfman tank bag, Ram mount and GPS76CSX, IMS 18 Liter tank, fender brace and I've just ordered the Pro Cycle Saddleman seat kit.

The windshield is a Spitfire (from the previous owner) that I installed lately for the cool morning commutes. He had fitted an MT21 on the front and a Mefo Explorer to the rear; a combination that I can live with. In fact I'd be inclined to re-tire with this combo again as it seems to work well for me. Not much else to report...I've added 8000 kilometers to the clock since purchasing (bringing the odo to about 35000) and changed a tail light bulb---and the oil and filter of course.
Happy riding!

Relic

AST236 · Sep 28, 2012

guzzirelic said: ↑

Just thought I'd drop in and say that I've got no reason for "pissin" or "moanin" about my DR. I've been thinking about one of these bikes for three years and finally purchased my 2006 from an ADV inmate back in June. I really enjoy this bike!
P.O. had added the engine guards, skid plate, rear rack, fender bag and saddlebag guards- all from Pro Cycle. He gave me the oem seat along with the Suzuki gel seat (on the bike in the photos).
I added a large tool tube, Wolfman tank bag, Ram mount and GPS76CSX, IMS 18 Liter tank, fender brace and I've just ordered the Pro Cycle Saddleman seat kit.

The windshield is a Spitfire (from the previous owner) that I installed lately for the cool morning commutes. He had fitted an MT21 on the front and a Mefo Explorer to the rear; a combination that I can live with. In fact I'd be inclined to re-tire with this combo again as it seems to work well for me. Not much else to report...I've added 8000 kilometers to the clock since purchasing (bringing the odo to about 35000) and changed a tail light bulb---and the oil and filter of course.
Happy riding!

Relic

Click to expand...

Sweet lookin' bike. Welcome aboard........

HappyCRNA · Sep 29, 2012

Hey guys...my Acerbis tank for my bike came in this week and while I have the tank off I want to run some power outlets for GPS, heated gear/grips, charger for iPhone. How do you all manage the few watts we have available and which connectors to you advocate? Cig lighters for gear and phone plus toggle switch for grips? I revisited the older posts with the dash pics, what would you do different if you could change anything?

Emmbeedee · Sep 29, 2012

HappyCRNA said: ↑

Hey guys...my Acerbis tank for my bike came in this week and while I have the tank off I want to run some power outlets for GPS, heated gear/grips, charger for iPhone. How do you all manage the few watts we have available and which connectors to you advocate? Cig lighters for gear and phone plus toggle switch for grips? I revisited the older posts with the dash pics, what would you do different if you could change anything?
Click to expand...

I much prefer SAE connections from the battery, then I can plug anything with an SAE connector to that, and use the one on the bike to charge the battery in the off-season.

So I attach the Battery Tender/SAE cable right to the battery, and use a three way lighter outlet splitter with the SAE connector on a two foot long cable, and when I plug my iPhone or Scala charger into the splitter, I put the whole kit into my tank bag to stay safe and dry.

I do have a separate cable for my gps up near the handlebars as well. Both my own and my wife's bikes are set up this way. It gives us a lot of flexibility in what we can plug in...

barko1 · Sep 29, 2012

HappyCRNA said: ↑

Hey guys...my Acerbis tank for my bike came in this week and while I have the tank off I want to run some power outlets for GPS, heated gear/grips, charger for iPhone. How do you all manage the few watts we have available and which connectors to you advocate? Cig lighters for gear and phone plus toggle switch for grips? I revisited the older posts with the dash pics, what would you do different if you could change anything?
Click to expand...

I put an on/off switch on the headlight so I can turn it off to save juice. The high beam
works with stock switch but I mounted another switch on the inside of the heaflight shroud

russt · Oct 2, 2012

Do you have a picture you can post showing the wires you tied the switch into, and how you mounted it on your shroud?

Thanks!

barko1 said: ↑

I put an on/off switch on the headlight so I can turn it off to save juice. The high beam
works with stock switch but I mounted another switch on the inside of the heaflight shroud
Click to expand...

vintagespeed · Oct 2, 2012

HappyCRNA said: ↑

...what would you do different if you could change anything?
Click to expand...

i initially installed the big groovy HDB top clamp & power & switches & doodads, but really all that just became a hassle to use.

my current setup on both bikes is simply a battery tender dongle hanging on the side of each and an assortment of adapters to plug in stuff, like GPS power, cig lighter, jumper cable setup, etc.

i came to realize that less is more in this case.

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