The fender shape/design is a well debated issue. While most of our later bikes are watercooled, allegedly the fender design is still something that often contributes to engine cooling. Just something to be aware of. It can also be argued that a big cake of mud splattered on the engine doesn't do any favors for engine cooling either.
I'm willing to bet it won't be long before someone markets a fork brace for the CRF...especially since there is a motard model coming down the pipe...in fact, dig out some old pictures...maybe it will come with one
Ed, not saying that a radically designed USD fork couldn't be developed with a fork brace, but they're generally not needed or suitable for USD forks. The reason for using USD forks in the first place is increased fork rigidity without bandaids. I'll bet the Honda's...and most other USD fork equipped bikes...front tire gets really close to the front fender as it stands now.
My comment about a fork brace was partially tongue in cheek in that a fork brace in some cases is "bling"...aka "eyewash"...that is "If it's out there for sale it's another bit of glitter to add like red anodized oil filler plugs" that are considered by some, more decoration than function......
As you may know, folks have gone to great lengths ($$$) to create a low front fender similar to big KTMs that mount to a fork brace for Kawasaki KLR650s, that users swear reduces front end float etc at speed. Maybe I don't ride fast enough on mine to note the need.
Hi, I bought my crf250l a month ago and have only be able to put the three miles from the dealer to my house on it (the long way) due to the rough Chicago winters. I look forward to riding the heck out of it this spring summer and fall. I also wanted to inform all of you that I talked to a guy in the bazzaz booth at the motorcycle show that informed me that they will have a tuning device out for it, and to look for it in the next month or so. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Here is a trailer I am building so I can haul the LRP around... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863408
Anyone in the socal area that has removed their rear fender with the emissions label want to part with it for a day? I'm willing to pay to borrow it so I can register my bike. Honda doesn't sell the label. Here's my bike at the DMV failing the inspection. They didn't seem to care about the exhaust, just the VIN and emissions label check.
The bars look good! Let me know about the mount, be interested in hearing about it. Thanks for the update
This of course might be accurate, if your main goal is comfort when in the seated position. For us comfort and stability is most important when in the standing position, where anyone should be most of the time when riding a DS bike off Tarmac. This procedure also could be subjective based on how fast a given rider is going and therefore how leaned forward to achieve perfect balance for where is most comfortable for them. Then you have different helmets and so on with more variables. There is no one all process to finding the perfect position for everyone, mostly perfect balance and comfort cannot be achieved with anything less than personal experience thru trial and error IMO. MC riding is all about balance, once you learn that, then you know where your controls need to be for you, something not done in your garage, methinks. Send me a PM, we live in Ventura and can work out you borrowing our fender, glad to help out. Going to be riding in the Malibu canyons this weekend... Mobile ADV Fix Complete
Yes, so most people pick a CR-Hi handlebar, rotate it forward enough to suit them for standing, and get used to whatever pull-back it has. If you use the adaptors to convert to fat bars, that adds more height than any of the typical bends other than the trials bars. With a road bike, you need to avoid the bars that are much wider than stock, to avoid problems with the length of the clutch and throttle cables and wiring. Getting the pull-back to suit you...the usual idea is to sit on the and hold out your arms to a sort of natural position and see how your wrists are, how straight or angled your wrists are. If they're quite angled, you want more pullback (many people do) then you have to look at that when comparing the handlebar specs. When you look at the specs, comparing the different pull-backs, you see...trials bars typically very straight, less pull-back, because straighter better for standing, with more forward balance; then MX bars, then enduro bars and supermoto bars, more pull-back. ZETA website has handlebar "simulator" that illustrates it very nicely. You select the bike (and they have the CRF250L), it displays a diagram showing the standard bar, then you select one of the ZETA bars and it superimposes the diagram for that one so you can compare. You can see that the CRF250L bars would be quite good for most people - medium high, more pull-back than most.
Depending on how you intend to use the trailer, you can add some options that will expand your hauling capabilities and make camping while you're out with your bike a lot more comfortable. I have a 5X8 homebuilt trailer I made in the 80's. I have the motorcycle offset to the left side and have two diamondplate truck boxes attached to the trailer on the right side in an end-to-end configuration. I call it a kind of "adventure" trailer. I strap a propane bottle to the front end of the trailer and cook off of a Coleman stove on the truck boxes. You can carry a good deal of gear and equipment in the boxes, and it's pretty darned secure in those locked boxes. I camp out in BLM and forest lands for free with my minivan, trailer, solar shower, and portapot in relative comfort. Bring along one of the more modern, efficient ice chests, and you can set up a base camp for 3-5 days and ride out an area on the bike and then move on when complete. Camping is great when you can bring enough stuff, not sleep on the ground, and cook decent food for your meals. These little trailers can make life much nicer out in the boondocks. On the 12" tires that are available for these trailers, they basically suck. They don't last long at highway speeds. On my trailer, I found a used 13" car wheel with the same 4-bolt pattern...and if you have a 5-bolt pattern you can do the same. I then got a pair of the smallest 13" radial car tires that were a 1.55 or such. This wheel/tire is only slightly taller and fits under the fender of most 12" trailers with no issue. You can run a lower pressure of around 32psi for a better ride, and you get a tire that might rot off the wheel way before you wear it out. If you can, get rid of the 12" setup.
Hi everyone, first time posting on the board. Have had the CRF250L for a couple weeks now and first thing I bought for it was the Fender Eliminator Kit from Yoshimura. Just got it installed today and thought I would post a couple pics, it was pretty easy to put on, and I really like the way it looks.
Bdolnik, your LED rear lamp kit looks great on the bike, did the holes match up on the mounting bracket, or did you have to re-drill the bracket or the bike frame to make the fit. The turn signals look like they clear the stock exhaust ok and no heat or exhausted gas should affect the turn signal. I've used the DRC LED tail lamp kit sold be Wheeling Supply on my DRZ400, but was not totally happy with the way the turn signal brackets mounded to the bracket, your bracket looks like the turn signal ears are made on the bracket. Heads up on any of the above would be appreciated, thanks, John