Brian, I work with special cutting tools and more and more its all in the right coatings, making tools last longer, and sometimes working at all. This coating your having applied been around for years with success, it will help with the piston taking the heat and making it wear longer. Now with that said, whom ever you get to do your bore needs to understand that its coated so they dont damage the coating.
you do anything with these guys? I interviewed there almost two years ago and I'm glad I didn't take the job because they started laying people off six months later. LIFO-last in first out. http://www.alliedmachine.com/
So I have been wondering what some of the best ways to drop more weight off the XR650L are. I'm not talking about going to the extent of replacing every bolt with titanium, but what batteries are lighter than stock, maybe lighter forks or wheels. I can't weld or do anything amazing like Kubiak but I've been looking at the bike and can't help but think there must be a way to drop more weight, I just can't figure out where to drop it without sacrificing more than the weight loss is worth. FWIW I am aware of the two unfortunate three way rules: 1. Strong, Light, Cheap pick two 2. Fast, Reliable, Cheap pick two -Barron
might look at the rider,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I was outside our local cycle gear and here rides up this dude on a 650l and had everything strip off and was point out what he had done to make lighter and faster,,,,,,,, this dude had to be pushing 350lbs. could help but think, dude loose that ass you'll be amazed how much faster you'll go. can't say much i'm 275
that's good to hear. I know a few people who are waiting for the call to comeback. Order more of their stuff!
well I got my bike back, again, the valve rocker cover was leaking when I picked it up the first time and the carb was screwed up (something with the choke, I think). Oh and the bike ran fine prior to the work, no noticeable oil use etc. Originally I took it in to add the nx 2nd gear and kick starter (it got rings and a hone too). Well the first head gasket did not seal, he fixed that there before I picked it up. So I have the bike back for the 2nd time, started it before I took it home, sounded good. Got it home, warmed it up that night, then warmed it up the next day before taking it for a ride. I decided to check the oil, it should be fine, but what the hay. No oil in the tank, I can hear it run down the downtube portion of the tank. CRAP.... What the hell. I added around 1.75 qts of oil, now it reads half way up the dip stick. Now, of course, I am mad. The shop owner is being a dick, and I think I am already hearing valve noises. (I'm mad... maybe I'm thinking it sounds louder than normal) So I notified a different shop about my problems, and they said to bring it in and they will do a quick assessment of how it sounds for free, no appointment needed. This sucks.
I don't like to say this knowing it doesn't help, but that's why I do all my own work; too many tales of incompetent shops(even some dealer shops!) screwing things up.
Thanks for the 411 Danny I plan to have a guy who has been around for awhile and does good work from what I've been told. I will be taking the piston with me when I drop my sleeve off to him and I will be sure to tell him that it is ceramic coated. Thanks again Danny you the man. Brian
Hey John I know the feeling My wife is on my ass about finishing up my trim work in the house. Sorry it just got too cold to be staining base boards and door trim so have to get that project done. When you start on your engine rebuild let me know I'll give you a hand. Brian
Time was an issue, with 2 young kids. And I have never split a case before, which made me hesitant. Most of what I've done has been on automobiles. And of course the business owner said "that's what everyone says" in a very snide tone Mistakes happen, and if it is your profession, the proper thing to do is fix your mistake.
Very true statement about the rider weight but... every six months or so I lose stupid amounts of weight to meet the standard, and I am close to my goal weight of 191 (I was 275 January first:huh ). It's amazing how much better your fuel milage gets and how much lighter the front wheel is when you drop that much weight . I had a guy on my last ship that sounds like the guy you mentioned Danny, but he rode crotch rockets (always with his butt crack showing) it was pretty funny. ANYWAY... I have been reading a few other things and I guess for the results I want I need to drop the rotating mass. It seems like the first place that I can make a change without any negative effect and actually gain some capability. I'm talking about the nuetech tubliss system that has been mentioned quite a few times here before. I guess I'll just add those to the list... H4 Conversion for 8" Trail Tech race light Trail Tech Vapor Piston Sell car (wife's of course) Cam Valves Springs Win the lottery Powdercoat frame, wheels other random parts Kick starter Sell a kid Forks Rear shock Some other sweet addition/farkle I can't afford or think of right now -Barron
One thing I was thinking about doing is replacing the battery box and steel frame with a smaller aluminum plate and XR600 side panel. Then mount the electrics to it and then move the battery, which would be replaced with the CRF/YZF/DRZ/RMZ battery that I would also relocate. I'm thinking this might lose around 5-10 lbs, but more importantly is loosing the weight up high, which should make it handle better. Another project I'm thinking about doing is replacing the forks. But, instead of going the usual direction I have the ability to score a complete front end from a KDX250 (43mm upside down cartridge similar to the KLX250/300). The only real advantage is they would be it would be CHEAP. I'm just not sure the benefit would out weigh the effort.
Can anyone explain the roles of the Throttle Stop Screw and Pilot Screw? Also, which should be used to adjust idle. Sorry for the carb-n00b questions, I'm just interested in how everything works.
I like the idea of the the lighter smaller battery but since I ride year round I have to keep high CCA for those cold mornings. I looked at doing something similar as what you are talking about with the electronics but in the end it just made more sense to me to put everything in the airbox. That way you lose the steel tube and the box back there plus all of the plastic from the air filter to the carb. As for my side panels, well I got rid of those too. They're in my shed. I made some panels that use the original mounting screws and they have worked out great. I had to trim the panel side of the airbox to make it flush with the panel then install weather stripping to keep it water resistant, and again I have had no issues. I'd post a pic for you but I'm on my ship right now and posting pics just plain ain't possible, but tomorrow I can send you some if want. Just let me know. -Barron
I've also thought about removing the battery box, especially since it leaks anyway, and moving the fuses and such into the airbox. I want to get a small battery and saw one a while ago on one of these sites. It was a very small lithium type, anybody else see it? I didn't save the site and did some searching, but can't find it.
