Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Looking through your site made it sound like you could hook up the PCV and AT, set the A/F, and just let it run. Did you do all the extra work for the individual gear maps and so you had maps saved?

How much is the full go race package running now? I am hoping to send my stuff off in 2 months and it looks like Go Race has the WRR dialed in to perfection.

That's exactly what you can do.

I wanted to work through all the options, save maps, monitor performance, etc. It's hard to take the easy way when you've been jetting carbs for 40 years. I finally gave in and just let the PCV/AT run and adjust as necessary...

where do i find the flea market?

Here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

Where Nice_Rumble said but everything has been spoken for so nothing ever made it to the flea market.
Except the WRR itself, as soon as I get it cleaned up I may list it there.



.

So we finally got around to removing all the emissions crap off Rosie's WRR...



It's heaps lighter now but seems a bit down on power

Actually, the engine was out for a full teardown to replace this:



2008 with 30 something thousand km on the bike. The gearbox countershaft output bearing had suddenly spat all it's balls out resulting in lots of nasty noises & loss of drive. Luckily there was no other damage. Still a big job to pull the engine down almost completely to get at the damn thing, would be horrifically expensive if you had to have a shop do it. All the rest of the motor insides looked pretty good, valve clearances ok, ring gaps well in spec, clutch good etc etc.

A look around the internets doesn't bring up any signs this is a common problem, my guess is that it had been literally 'ridden hard & put away wet' by the PO & corrosion from a drop of water in the bearing was the root cause. Rolling element forensics experts feel free to comment


Cheers
Clint

I bought it set up but the previous owner said she spent $1000 on the suspension.

Brinnelling damage from a chain too tight?

I've always kept the chain tension within spec, and do check it fairly regularly.
I like to think that the previous owner (Yamaha NZ) adjusted the chain correctly too.. but you never know :huh

Just picked up a WR/R last weekend. Loving it. A bit surprised the pegs deck out so easily but perhaps this is the result of combing dualsport plush suspension with 17" wheels? Dunno...never had a tard before.

Just ordered the 4.7 IMS, flatlands skid plate, GL coyote, seat concepts cover. Bike already has heated grips and a set of dirt wheels with fresh 95/5 Knobbies.

Coming from a 950 SE....love this bike!

Pic and mod only thread

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828749

When I saw the Wolfman Teton Saddle bags, they immediately reminded me of the Army's JSLIST bag. They're both made from water resistant nylon and have a roll top. The JSLIST bag has two shoulder straps that can be sewn together (or adpated for buckles) and draped over the seat. The only trick would be figuring out how to attach it to racks (bungies?). I'm not in a position to test them on my WRR for a few months, but thought I'd mention it for others that like economical homebrew solutions.

FWIW, the JSLIST bag seems to be slightly larger:
The Wolfman bags are advertised as 13" Width, 13" Height, 7" Depth
A JSLIST bag is advertised as 17" Width, 16" Height, 8" Depth

Front / open



Front / closed



Rear



Side



Inside

Those are nice looking bags. Price is reasonable too. I tried to buy one, but I live in Canada so am prohibited by eBay from buying military surplus. Weird.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Army-Mil...812?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3370695eb4

Does anybody have strong feelings about the best chain for the Yamaha?

My last trip was a 2500 mile loop through Utah and Nevada from Phoenix. By the time I got back, my wheelbase was at least an inch longer than when I started due to all the adjustments. The last day required a chain adjustment every fuel load.

The rear sprocket shows the wear with hooked teeth. Haven't looked at the front yet. The bike has only about 9k miles on the clock, but plenty of sand sand time, and I probably didn't keep it clean enough. I probably damaged it early in its life too by letting it get so loose it would jump teeth.

I want to replace the sprockets and chain with a strong sealed O ring chain. It seems to me the chain should last about 15k miles. Any suggestions?

My KTM is down right now.....had to redo some gaskets to get an air leak under control, which was causing a horrific lean condition..making bike un-rideable.

So, since the KTM smoker is all brake sliding and clutch riding, I have actually adapted that style to my WR250R(4T), and broken myself of the habbit of relying on engine braking, and I actually think I am riding my WRR a little faster with that style.

>"Does anybody have strong feelings about the best chain for the Yamaha?...... "

DID gold links. (112 links, rivited master).
Rear - Primary Drive Sprocket
Supersprox countershaft Sprocket.

10,000 miles, no worries so far.

The "Less is More" campaign continues with 66cc of Bad Ass!

Chris - tell us more - what is it? Looks like fun!