the DR650 thread

This normally means the idle circuit is too rich and could be wasting fuel once the engine warms up. But you're happy with it, so theoretical guessing on my part is irrelevant. I'm just jealous that you have a TM-40 and I don't.

Dang, 1-1/2" is a bunch. I'm glad you measured it to give others an idea of what to look for.

The only issue I have with mxrob's chart is that it doesn't show the white spacer (or the metal KTM shim) under the clip. That is the stock configuration, and would put the bottoms of the needles (KTM vs DR) at pretty much the same height.
Just the addition of the white spacer alone would put them a lot closer.

Also I believe the general consensus is that the DJ needle in that chart is meant to sit at the bottom of the slide (along side the shelf, not on the shelf). This would also make its installed height a little closer to (DR) OEM then pictured in the chart.
Not sure how the Procycle needle falls in there height wise compared to OEM. A lot of variables to be sure.

Quote:
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The thing starts up at 40 degree weather on one or two rev with no choke........

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"This normally means the idle circuit is too rich and could be wasting fuel once the engine warms up. But you're happy with it, so theoretical guessing on my part is irrelevant. I'm just jealous that you have a TM-40 and I don't. "

Well it's a FCR-MX,almost the same thing

790. Yes! I love it! While I was in there (bearing failure made me rebuild the motor) I put in skf bearings and kibblewhite valves as well. Lots of smooth power. Bike goes like hell and still gets great mileage.

Oops. :huh

I didn't realize the Safari was difficult to remove/replace. If that's the case with ALL of them ... then definitely not for me. I've taken my IMS off and on at least 30 times in just the last few years. I routinely take the tank off for any maintenance or Carb tuning. Very handy with the IMS, which comes in just minutes. I've done it on the road in Mexico, never a problem.

Access is important to me ... and is a BIG PLUS on the DR650 in general.
I see guys on BMW's sweating in the hot sun, going through 30 minutes of struggle just to get down to something.

The IMS and new Acerbis give over 230 to 250 miles of range (depending how bike is tuned) . Plenty of range for this continent ... Oz is a different world of course.

I got 60 miles to the gallon on one tankful recently. Almost 300 mile range on that tank. :eek1 (IMS tank) I've gone to a 16-tooth front sprocket.

It only seemed on this occasion that it was difficult to get back on. Previous times, it aligned more or less straight away. As I mentioned earlier, the tank had a lot of fuel in it so may have been "flexing" a bit.

Even though it can create some issues, I still love my safari tank and the range I get with it. Even the fact I don't have to go into and fuel up is such a convenience. Last time I fueled up I had 732km and still hadn't hit reserve.

Friends
somebody rescue me from the "First Gear Clunk"... My 97 has a bad case of it. I've replaced the clutch cable, adjusted, adjusted, adjusted, adjusted, changed the oil [currently running Rotella HD 15/40], sacrificed two chickens and a snake, all to no avail. Strained my old oil for any telltale signs and found NO debris at all, though I tried hard. nothing on the magnetic plug either

mine, like others have reported, is sensitive to temperature and engine speed, and of course, movement. just move it forward at slow walking speed and its really happy. move it backward and its nasty. cold it behaves ok. warm it is more cooperative. hot its ugly.

upshifting to 2nd is almost as dicey, and downshifting from 3rd to 2nd is like dropping off a ledge

suggestions?

Grifter the Safari isn't a big problem to remove/reinstall once you've done it twice. I had a IMS on my previous DR and now that I've have a Safari I wouldn't trade it for 3 IMS's. I'm big on accessibility also and can remove my Safari in less than and extra minute more than my IMS and reinstall with a extra two minutes over the IMS. Since both of us have done some serious Central America travel we both understand ease of maintenance "on the road".


TravelGuy

Pull the clutch and check that the metal plates are clean and flat. If they are warped and/or contaminated that can cause drag. Also take a look at the fingers on the clutch basket and see if the sides that engage the fiber plates are smooth. If these are not smooth, they can cause the clutch to stick too. Make similar checks with the metal plates and the clutch hub.

Mine shifted better after I changed to Valvoline 20W-50 synthetic blend.

That is where i put mine, i had to turn the C clip to where the opening would sit sit along the wall ( flat side ) of the shelf, that way it would go all the way down and not be in a bind or cocked to the side.

Thanks

Prolly common knowledge but when putting the thing back together I do the 2 bolts on the bike (under the seat) first. It's a shedload easier to wiggle the wings into position than to get the under seat holes to line up. Was a 'duh' moment for me after much swearing.

If you're just pulling it off and going to put it back on right away it's not a problem. I believe the problems come it when the tank is off for a couple of days or more and has fuel in it. Mine is off right now and since I knew it would be off the bike for more than a week I drained it and attached the front brace.

Ethanol may be responsible for the expansion of these plastic tanks. Ducati's amoung many others have serious expansion problems. http://deformedfueltanks.com/

wanting to rent a bike for a trip in costa rica, i'm asking myself whether a dr650 would be a good choice travelling 2-up (girlfriend and me, together about 280 pounds) for two weeks with the necessary luggage (maybe a giantloop + a bag)? the dr would most likely be stock, i don't think that there's any upgrades on the bikes in regards to suspension etc. other options include f8gs & lc4, lc8. no personal experience with the dr. thoughts?

I don't follow. All needles are measured from the 3rd clip (when adjustable), since the white spacer's thickness is a constant, and we're not selectively adding or leaving the KTM's washer out, the measurements still relate to one another 1:1.

The DJ needle's instructions indeed call for the removal of the white spacer, so the clip sits on the floor of the slide. I assume that you are trying to point out that the DJ needle's tip, when installed in this way is closer to protruding a similar amount from the slide as the others when installed with the white spacer installed as they are intended to. This is of course correct. This is mostly semantic, but nevertheless important, because consistency in terms helps alleviate confusion: The installed height refers to the clip area. In other words, if the clip is moved up, the needle is said to be installed lower. If a needle has a shim removed, it is also said to be installed lower, which means that the DJ needle's installed height is in fact quite a bit lower than that of the OEM needle.

The needle used in the Procycle kit is a DJ needle.

Regards,

Derek

This is one of the problems with the DJ needle. Not being slightly preloaded toward the downstream side will increase needle orbiting and rattling, which will in turn increase emulsion tube wear. The needle also cannot pivot out of the way as easily once slide guide (& in extreme cases slide) wear sets in, which also contributes to emulsion tube wear. The stainless material does not help in this area either.

Regards,

Derek

All I was trying to point out (although probably not very clear) is that when refering to the mxrob's chart (the one with the photo of the actual needles) is that the KTM needle should have been moved slightly to the left (the distance of the plastic spacer) or in other words the clips should have been lined up. I say this because that is how the KTM needle would/will be installed -- with the plastic spacer, just like the DR needle is.
This would have made the measurement comparison more accurate between the DR and the KTM, and better illustrate their differences.
As shown the measurements are not representative of how they actually hang from the slide. There is actually a greater difference then the numbers in the photo say (with the KTM at 3rd clip position).

Similarly the DJ needle should have been shown moved to the right (the distance of the shelf) to show accurate measurements for where it actually hangs in the slide relative to the others.

I think measurements compared as they actually hang from the slide would have been more useful and less confusing.
Maybe it is just me and the way I look at things -- but that was my point.


Edit: Thought I better clarify that there is no disrespect intended to mxrob and all the effort he put in when researching the carb and the DR in general. He has forgotten more then I will ever know.
I don't remember the original context and dialog surrounding the chart at the time (5 years ago). My comments are based upon how I perceive things now and only intended to give a little different perspective.
There has been a lot of evolution in tuning the BST and a lot of that can be credited to mxrob and his efforts!