Found some, while searching for options. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-Fan-4-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2cb35bd0&vxp=mtr A little more expensive this time around.
So if I want a ripping 4 stroke single for the street but live in NJ can i build a XRL into an XRR maybe starting with a XRL chassis and title and putting all the hot parts into it from the XRR? Or do I just buy a hot XRL title and hope no cop ever checks the vin This is what 3 nights of 16 hour storm standby at work does to my fragile jello brain Dont laugh but I miss my KLR and always wanted to bump it out to 705 and swap out the dollar bin suspenders but every time i thought about the $$ wasted vs getting something better all around, then i sold it and bought the evverfun buell Either dismiss this as silly reTHoric or endulge my tiredness or do I just buy a KTM/HUSQY?ETC
No, you can't use the watercooled XR650R engine in the XR650L frame. However you could build a hotted up air cooled XR600R in a XR650L frame. It would be 85% of the performance of the XR650R in my opinion. I always wanted a kickstart xr650l framed XR600 punched to 628cc with crf450 forks. I think it would be a blast.
Im pretty sure a XR600R would be legit in my state if it was already registered. This could start to be good or bad depending on which side of my wallet you end up on
That guys $15 shipping is a total bust. http://autoplicity.com/products/174...o3&network=g&gclid=CLbynODAqrMCFWlxQgod1SgAWA is a better price out the door.
Cylinder-bore & piston operate at vastly different temperatures hence will expand very different. This means that the (hot!) piston has loadsa play in the (coolish, refer your thermostat) bore when cold, it rattles around. To seal off a bore effectively the clearance must be maintained at a value determined by the factory, ergo the parts must be at the temperature they were designed for. A too-cool engine therefore will not seal off the bore effectively, with consequential loss of power*, increased wear, oil consumption & engine fouling as the combined results. Oh, also add reduced oil-change intervals (fouling) and piston slap noises. Ever heard a cold aircooled 2stroke started, any Kawa triple a good example? This racketry is the (aluminium) pistons 'turning' in the (cast iron) sleeves, amplified by the fins, and only idjits revved it when cold. So no, not only needed for warmup but to maintain a minimum engine temperature, good for any climate you may find yourself in. (* Disclaimer: actually this is not wholly true but is for this explanation. Efficiency-wise it is true in any case)
Hi Guys, I recently finished my XRR build. It was nothing extraordinary, just piled together a lot of the common mods that have been done for years to the XRRs. Anyways, so far so good. I only have one minor teething issue. My new Mishimoto coolant hoses seem to be weeping coolant after the bike warms up a bit. It's in the mid 30s up here in Northern Minnesota, and the oil temp dipstick is showing only 120f, but if I let the bike sit for about 2 minutes, it will start leaking coolant slowly out of several of the hoses. I know these bikes are sensitive to overheating, but something is wrong. I've refit and tightened the hoses down but that hasn't helped. I'm wondering if the cooling system is building up too much pressure and if I need a different radiator cap or if there might be a blocked vent somewhere. The coolant in the resevoir is at the full mark when the bike is on the side stand as pictured below. Thoughts?
I had one of my CV4 hoses leak, because I forgot to tighten the clamp, but even then it didn't leak much after months of riding. Your oil temp will not be close to accurate unless the motor is running mid-high revs. Check your thermostat. I think your hoses are junk myself, your cap should blow long before any coolent leaks from the hoses.
Hi sintax I just wanted to know what are the nominal dimensions Mikuni HS40 carburetor jets: Main jet and Pilot jet(In my carburetor HS40: Main jet 140, Pilot jet 20. Is this ok?? ) Thanks for everything.
Maybe I'll give the hoses a few heat cycles to see if that helps. Agreed, that's why I posted this to begin with. I'm going to try a few things, drip some chicken blood on the bike and hope I magically fix this. We'll see if some heat cycles help set the seal on the hoses, if not I'll put the stockers back on. Thanks for the feedback.
If chicken doesn't work, try cat. I assume you aren't getting garbage in the coolent; i.e. leaking head gasket. The stock hoses are great hoses, the only reason for me to go different was to add some color/coolness to the bike. I am sure that is that same for others. What I really wanted was the clear hoses; I thought it would be cool to watch the coolent swirling around the engine.
20 sounds kinda small. I'd guess you could start at 25 and try that. Get the bike warmed up, dial in idle speed to about 1700 rpm using white plastic knob (higher than normal idle, which should be around 1400 rpm) using the brass fuel screw under the front of the carb, slowly screw it in until the engine rpm and sound changes, you've just made it too lean. Take note of how many turns. From that point screw outward, until the rpm or sound changes to normal again, then keep going out, until it starts to stumble and chug. You've just made it too rich. Take note of how many turns, Find the correct number of turns, that is right in the middle of the two. If you find yourself at either end of the spectrum and no change is happening, you either need to go up or down a jet size. Sorry that is a bit crude, and there are people who can explain it better, but hopefully that makes some sense
I finally found time to work on the bike and I believe that I found the culprit. Apparently the previous (previous, previous) owner put a hole in the overflow bottle and did a cheap and easy fix on it. Im guessing that the "fix" decided to fail while on the trail. I put the rad's back on, connected everything, and when I filled the overflow with antifreeze I immediately noticed a leak from somewhere below. Removed the skid and bottle and "boom" some crappy black plastic "fix" peeling away from one entire side of the bottle. Next question : does anyone have one for sale?
I have a very faint scraping noise coming from beneath the cylinder I think (well not really scraping but it's the best I can describe) . Could it be the rod bearing? Only can notice it when I rev it when stopped. I have put this bike through hell and back, so I am not surprised. EDIT: Can't hear it anymore. I'll keep an eye, err ear, on it.
Thing is overflow bottles are not pressurized. They only "contain" the overflow when the cap releases at hot temperatures. Yes, it will blow coolant if overheating, but it's also designed to do that through the top drain hose out below the bottle in front of your foot. You still might have issues.
Well considering my luck I would agree. In the back of my mind I think I knew that it wouldnt be that easy.
